My goal for my R is to make it fast, but still reliable as far as modifying it... This is my proposed setup.. I am trying to keep it as safe as possible, since it is my daily driver... Lemme know what you guys think..

- Hytech or SMSP Header
- Type One B-Pipe w/ Spoon N1
- Toda Spec B Cams
- JDM Hondaparts Camgears
- Toda Valvetrain
- Ferrea Ti Retainers
- Topspeed Port & Polished Head
- RC 310cc Injectors
- JDM Final Drive
- Toda Lightened Flywheel
- Hondata

 

looks good, but I don't think you need new injectors. unless you get some CTR pistons. Since you're taking your head off for some work, why not get some higher compression pistons like CTR? stay with stock valves, i personally would feel more comfortable with stock valves.

 

looks good, but I agree with cheapbastard up your compression....81.5mm Wiseco/Endyn rock jooooo

 

New bottom end was a consideration, but I want to keep my car as factory reliable as possible, and that is why I am leaving the bottom end stock.

 

your not gonna get much power out of the Toda's with stock compression JUST FYI
plus if you want stock reliability STAY STOCK!!!!


[Modified by Pinhead, 1:16 AM 3/27/2002]

 

190s is fine with me..

 

190's=probably not
high 170's low 180's=Likely

 

I don't think so buddy... I've seen more than one R with exhaust, hytech header, and intake hit 180s.

That is like saying a R's baseline dyno is in the 150s.


[Modified by 1 FAST R, 6:19 AM 3/27/2002]

 

I think I'll let Vegeta chime in on this post if he can
If im correct he has 11.x:1 compression with Toda's B's and toda header and exhaust etc...and he's trying hard to break the 180 barrier

 

Go with the ATS final drive though. I guessitmate at the HIGHEST you'll get 185whp, (only going that high because of the P&P and Hondata), That is about as far as you'll go if you DON'T go w/ higher compression

 

He has a Toda header... Listed on my mods is a hytech or smsp..

 

Definately need higher compression. 12:1 would be ideal with those spec Bs. Just FYI, you wont be getting more than 180s if you dont raise compression a bunch. Good luck

 

Ummmmm correct me if I'm wrong but the Toda header works just as well as the hytech and SMS on toda cams and if your header out performs it it'll be my 1-3whp...and Vegeta hasn't broken 180whp yet so I'd go 185whp TOPS

 

I was at 193 with just about those mods, I think that I still have them listed in my profile...didn't have the head done, but that was pretty much my setup. You're going to need some larger injectors...my 310's were at 98% duty cycle...go with the 440's.
Austin

 

 

i am just wondering if you guys do work on your cars yourself. you want stock reliabilit with thiose kinds of mods?? thos aggre. cams will shred your t belt like nothing and changing a t belt aint like doing an oil change. do you how much of a bitch it is chng a t belt?? from what i hear you have to look at chnging your t belt at like 20-30k?? chit!!!!!! what if oyu forget or what if it goes a little early.....your whole motor is fugged. oem reliability....please.

 

Changing the belt isn't THAT bad, but i would recommend an aftermarket one (150 bucks vs a new motor ). Didn't someone snap a belt a month or two ago? Do check ur belt for stress wear whenever you have the valve cover off ( ie when you adjust ur valves ). 98% percent duty cycle on 310s? geezus the stockers won't last long

 

You dont need all of that **** for 190 ....

just get the JUN III cams, cam gears, header, cat/straightpipe, exhaust, ecu/hondata, and you will make 195-200whp with good tuning.... or go toda b's if thats what you prefer.... you may want to look at a FPR too..

raised compression and headwork will net you even MORE power

Jon

 

ps. dont forget the valvesprings/retainers

 

With the stock exhaust, stock header, stock cat and no real tuning on the PowerFC I was at 100% duty cycle with the stock injectors at 7000rpm...I ordered injectors the next day.
Austin

 

I make mid- to hi- 170s with I/H/E and without a VAFC/Fields (I have one, I just don't want to tap those wires again so I'm waiting to get/make an OBD2->OBD2 "jumper").

I would ask myself if 12 whp or less is worth all that hassle. I think many H-Ters have gotten Mod-Fever and spend $$$$ (oftentimes $$$ they don't have via credit) on all these mods for what may amount to fractions of fractions of seconds in the 1320 or lap times. For me, I'd rather drive it than spend all my $$$ wrenching it.

Stock reliability rules.

YMMV.

 

I'm gonna say high 180's, low 190's with those mods. I got 188-189whp/ 130-131wtq with a similar setup on Spec B's. Tuning is paramount.

Totally ****** reliable in every aspect and 25-30mpg consistently in mixed driving.

But as Valerian says, "life is too short to worry about gas milage."

 

I'd install a clutch while you're at it too.

Something along the lines of an ACT Xtreme plate with a Street/Strip disc.

or

Toda organic street clutch, if you have to be "JDM" about it.


[Modified by Reid, 7:23 AM 3/27/2002]

 

It seems like you will already be spending a lot of money on this set-up (I realize that "a lot of money" is always relative, but to me, this would be an expensive purchase.) If you are going to do all this, you might as well take the next step and increase the compression ratio. If you are already taking the head off the engine, it is not too much more work to replace the pistons. Assuming money is not a problem, you will be pleased with the extra money spent. Additionally, as long as you do not go above 12.0:1 CR, you should not run into additional reliability problems.

As other people have already stated, if you want a reliable car, then keep the car as stock as possible. I know a lot of people who run Toda cams or Hondata without any problems. However, I also have many horror stories where people live without their cars for weeks while the mechanics try to figure out what went wrong. Cams break. Computers cannot connect to the engine. If you want a more reliable setup, you should just go with CTR cams and a chipped ECU (e.g., skunk2). Skip the bigger injectors and headwork (ITRs already have some headwork done at the factory).

This is just my opinion. I hope it helps.

 

Chris...just wait until you see the numbers and what the car can do when I'm done...less money and faster than before...hopefully. At least there will be less to worry about.
Austin