I'm rebuilding my LSVTEC because of a misfortune on the dyno

Now I have a few questions before I rebuild my engine..

I'm replacing the following: Rods, Crankshaft (journal cracked), Main & Rod bearings, Headgasket, Piston Rings.

I'm using ACL bearings for this setup, what is the optimum clearance for the rod and main bearings? I don't want the clearances too loose, but I don't want them as tight as OEM. I'll plastigage when I recieve the crank.

For the crank I'm doing only a micropolish. Is it a good idea to balance the crank without balancing the entire rotating assembly? I have ARP rod bolts.. I'll have to call ARP for the torque spec.

I will be spraying the OEM headgasket with a couple coats of Copper spray for a good seal

I am using OEM rings for this setup, what is the best way to hone the cylinders when I use OEM rings. From what I understand, I don't want a rough hone.. instead, I want more of a polish instead?

What is a good ring gap to go with? I'm running machined CTR pistons (the dome has been shaved down a bit). I know the compression is high, so do I need a tight gap? Honda recommends .0018-.0028 Inch. Does the top ring need to be tighter than the second?

I'm thinking about taking the shim out of my oil pump. At 4k RPM, my PSI is about 75-80, and full throttle It'll go around 110 psi before the relief opens up. Will that high of oil pressure rob me of power?


I may have more questions later...

Thanks!

 

On my motor I used from 0.0018-0.0020 on the mains, and 0.0015" on the rods. I get very good oil pressure all around. I wouldn't shim the oil pump, there is really no need to. In Nascar they look for ways to reduce pumping losses--one of the things they do is reduce oil pressure to the minimum required to keep the engine alive at high rpm. I have heard you don't need more than 45-50 at high rpm. I get about 75-80 when the oil is fully warmed up at full throttle.

 

Cool, .0015" is Max on rods by Honda spec, and .0017 is max on Mains.

I have 2 different sets of mains to test... ACLs and Clevite.

 

Dont spray the headgasket with copper. This is one thing I don't know why people do. The most I will do is wipe a <U>very</U> small amount of silicone sealant around the main oil feed areas on the head. The copper **** is messy, and is usually doing more harm then good.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Runnerdown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The copper **** is messy, and is usually doing more harm then good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmm, How so?

 

It get into the oil. That black coating on the headgasket is whats giving it a really good final seal. If you need to spray copper coat to prevent leaks then your doing something wrong. Good luck with the build.

 

That alot to answer to.

Personally I wouldn't spend the money balancing a oem Honda crank.I've spun up lots of them on a couple different balancers and they were all so close to perfect.

I would use the ACL's rather than the Clevites.

I would run close to the stock bearing clearances.A touch bigger wouldn't bother me.

I use copper coat and have had good results.So people don't and have good results also.

I run the same ring gap on both top and second rings.For your deal .018" to .028" would be fine.

I don't run shims in the pump but I do leave the sealing washer out (as the vtec pumps do).

Glenn

 

isnt it .015" not that many zero's not .00xx on mains?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JH4DC4-2GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">isnt it .015" not that many zero's not .00xx on mains?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No. It is .0009"-.0017" with a service limit of .0020".
#3 main is .0012"-.0019" with a service limit of .0024".