I searched and found nothing. I was thinking of buying it on my next oil change, i was just wondering if its worth buying?

 

If you buy decent oil, then you don't need it. You should read this article the lucus stabalizer here: http://bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm. I think it might help.

 

thanks

 

No problem, always glad to help when I can

 

most automobile makers discurage the use of oil additives in their engines, so be careful

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...s.htm

I wouldn't want that crap in my engine...

 

https://www.amsoil.com/storefr...D=228




<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CliffBurton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you buy decent oil, then you don't need it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

YUP

 

Looks like im saving me $17 on my next oil change

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVT3K 91 C1V1C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...s.htm

I wouldn't want that crap in my engine...</TD></TR></TABLE>

my favorite test on the subject.

magic beans are for fairey tales.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CheechJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks like im saving me $17 on my next oil change</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought it was $14?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FOMULA91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I thought it was $14?</TD></TR></TABLE>

here at my local kragen it is $17

 

that test is a crock, there is in no way a stack of gears in your engine turning at high rpm to make any part of that test valid, not to mention its at room temp and not an engine operating temp, which would in my opinion thin it out a bit and not cause it to "misbehave" like that... the test has no realistic conditions at all, i would have been more swayed by a taste test... i use it in my turbo h22 and i love it. dont get me wrong, im not using 25% like the directions say, i use .5 qt to my 5qt system. i have noticed that my idle oil press went from 17psi to 24psi and when i used to start it up after a day or two of not driving it, it would take 2 to 3 seconds to build any oil pressure, whereas now it has pressure instantly... in my opinion that alone is worth the $8.50 every other oil change, or however much for the synthetic.

 

i useing it in my tranny.i dont have anymore third geasr grind and shifts lot smoother.as for putting it in a egine i wouldnt do that the lucas **** is kinda thick.

 

my point was that with the level of engineering that goes into current synthetic oils, something like this is most often useless, and sometimes very harmful. but without knowing everything it is doing - it certainly isnt tested in most applications- why risk it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oneludesol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that test is a crock, there is in no way a stack of gears in your engine turning at high rpm to make any part of that test valid, not to mention its at room temp and not an engine operating temp, which would in my opinion thin it out a bit and not cause it to "misbehave" like that... the test has no realistic conditions at all, i would have been more swayed by a taste test... i use it in my turbo h22 and i love it. dont get me wrong, im not using 25% like the directions say, i use .5 qt to my 5qt system. i have noticed that my idle oil press went from 17psi to 24psi and when i used to start it up after a day or two of not driving it, it would take 2 to 3 seconds to build any oil pressure, whereas now it has pressure instantly... in my opinion that alone is worth the $8.50 every other oil change, or however much for the synthetic.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If a gear makes it foam up, don't you think your oil pump would do the same thing? And think about this, the Lucas mixture wasn't even pressurized in that test. Oil pressure goes up because you're oil is thicker, espically on a fresh oil change. A good 40wt synthetic would do the same.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oneludesol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> in my opinion that alone is worth the $8.50 every other oil change, or however much for the synthetic.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why spend $8.50 to put extra additives in cheap oil, when you can use a good synthetic that already has a good additive package?


You are getting sucked into the snake oil, my friend.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vteckillenzc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i useing it in my tranny.i dont have anymore third geasr grind and shifts lot smoother.as for putting it in a egine i wouldnt do that the lucas **** is kinda thick.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Horrible idea, honda recommended a 30wt oil for a reason... You're pouring molasses in your tranny. I'm pretty sure Honda engineers know a lot more than snake oil developers.

If you want to get rid of grinds use GM Synchromesh, or Pennzoil Synchromesh... it is a 30wt oil as well.

 

If the motor has high mileage, then Lucas oil will help extend motor life. If it was for a new motor, no I wouldn't use it. Just stick to the regular tune-ups.