40 hours later, on the end of a 3 day garage bender, the moment of truth came.. On my first attempt at a solo engine swap, I wasn't sure if I got everything right, but with the flick of a key and 3 rotations later, the H22 awoke. All timing was correct, no fluids leaked and the engine turned smoothly.. Took it for a ride without VTEC wired just to make sure. Everything seemed ok..

Got home, turned the car off and the radiator fan came on. Odd. The car had only been running for about 5 mins. Did a bare hand test on the radiator, but it wasn't that hot. Valve cover, normal..

Did some investigation and realized that my H23 has two temperature sending units. The h22 only has one, evidently. Please correct me if wrong.

The person that owned the car before me did a little changing to the water temp sending unit on the thermostat housing (the green connector). Where is this lead supposed to lead to? I know one wire is ground, but where is the positive supposed to connect to? Maybe the plug where the second temp sender is supposed to be? Where would that be located?

The fan now stays on indefinitely when the car is turned off. I have to remove the negative battery terminal to shut it off. I think this open lead has alot to do with it.

Can you guys help me on this?

 

I believe it is normal for the fan to run after the car is driven for a while and shut off. It should shut off on its own.

 

i have an H23 and after i get done driving it for awhile and i shut if off the fan turns on but after awhile it just kicks back off

 

The fan is staying on forever.. Until I disconnect the negative terminal to the battery.

 

shoulds have both sensors connected.... Take one of of the h23 for the front coolant pipe... Its a direct swap... Sounds like you missed this... Its in the FAQ I am sure...


Let me know if I missed something, but it sounds like thats what you missed..