Maybe you guys could help me figure out what cams to get for my "ideal" set up.
I am not going to rev to 9000 rpm. Just going to stick with stock ITR rev limit.

Setup goes like this...

B-18c1
Exhaust: Jdm 4-1/carsound cat/apex n1 cat-back
Intake: Aem Cai/Skunk2 Intake manifold
Pistons: JDM ITR
HG: Spoon 2 Piece
Valvetrain: Cam(TBA), JDM ITR Valve springs, Ti-Retainers
Electronics: VAFC, Chipped P28

Then add an aem fpr, and dyno tuning. Help from those of you who have had experience with all 3 cams would be most appreciated.

 

What about Crower?

 

I don't have any personal experience with crower products. I have rode in my friend's car equipped with crower cams, and they were nice. But other than that i have nothing else to compare it to. I have heard alot of bad things about crower on this board and i think i'll try to stay away from it...I have not heard anything but good things about Toda Products.

 

I know its not an option, but what about a CTR intake, ITR exhaust. It would be less expensive and would more than likely give the exact powerband you want.

 

Yeah thats what i had at first, but i'm looking for something a little more aggressive than them. Perhaps something that gives 5-10 more hp than R cams.

 

you will have some really high compression with those jdm pistons and spoon headgasket. I would say itr cams if you dont want to spend a whole lot of money but otherwise just get skunk2 stage 2

 

Def. go w/ Toda, with the ITR pistons and the GSR head you'll have about 11.5:1 compression, which is pretty damn good, I would like to see you run some toda B's, I love mine, the Mid range is INCREDIBLE, you'd get a little more power than the A's, but it would mean that you would have to switch to a better valvetrain(TODA). But that is going to be an awesome setup anyway it goes. Go w/ the A's, its worth the money to have the confidence of being TODA powered. I'm looking to do either USDM/JDM ITR Pistons, or go all the way and get a Spoon Balanced Short block

 

Spyderwebab: I really want some B's, but i just can't afford the extra money for valvesprings. Also i won't beable to do any dyno tuning til mid summer and i don't know how well my car would do with just dropping B's in =/. don't know if i can handle the way it idle either...Like you said earlier, its like a compromise...a "liveable" idle to sacrifice power, or to get a crappy idle and make the most power out of the cams. decisions..decisions...decisions...

Spec B's are notorious for making good midrange and good torque, is that the same with the spec A's?

 

but did you consider the thinner headgasket he is using?

 

I would suggest the Spec B Toda camshafts ... Mill the head another 15 thousandths of an inch and use the thinner two layer headgasket. This combination has worked very well in customer's cars with the JDM 4-1 header. One guy in a 2001 ITR ran 13.0 in the 1/4 then put the spoon header and went to cinsistent 12.9s ... although each car is different many like the spec B as the ramp rates on all the Toda billets yield very nice midrange torque. If you had more money to spend, a HyTech header or the Toda header would compliment very nicely.

Greg

 

I kinda want to stay away from milling my head. But do spec B's make alot more power over A's? How are B's for daily driving?

 

the b's tend to be rough at warmup, they also can stall at the red light if fuel is not leaned out at the low end ... they make dramatically more power than the spec As and CTR/ITR cams .. the spec B lower lobe is 0.5mm smaller than the Type R higher lobe ... just to put things into perspective.

Greg

 

My opinion you have two routes mild or wicked.

Mild = ctr cams good worthy upgrade oem quality
Wicked = toda b/c or jun 3 and build the motor

I dont see the sense in spending 1000 dollars on JUN2's or Toda A's and that is not even including their valve train. Check the R board people are making 190+ with itr/ctr cams

 

Hm..well GIFFCHAN is having a special on New Toda Products. THe toda A for 830 and the Toda B for 890. The thing with the toda B is that i'm going to have to get the toda valve springs, and there is no way i have enough money for tuning and i'm afraid i'll have a shitty car if i just drop the B's in.

Is the power difference between toda A and toda B really that signifcant? Can anyone prove this with dyno comparisons with relatively same variables.

Poll isn't too bad. There isn't a majority of people voting for one cam. I think with a little more participation I can weed out 2 cams . TTT