code #6,#9,#10
i am getting these codes on my crx 6,9,10 i have a jdm sohc zc with a pm6 ecu, car stutters when i start it and it boggs when i tap the gas, 6 ECT - water temperature sensor 9 CYP - cylinder sensor 10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor, what does any of this meen
here are the codes
1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater
67 Catalyst low efficiency. (same as P0420)
70 Automatic Transmission Malfunction w/AT Controls
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected
86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem
90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area
91 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow
1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater
67 Catalyst low efficiency. (same as P0420)
70 Automatic Transmission Malfunction w/AT Controls
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected
86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem
90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area
91 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow
need more info - is this a new swap? what model CRX? code 6 is from the coolant temp sensor which is located on the end of the head below and in front of the distributor - has 2 wire connector with red/white stripe and green/white stripe wires - make sure it is plugged in and that the connector isn't damaged (wires break on these all the time) - if connection is good, then sensor may be bad - code 9 CYL sensor in the distributor - if this is a swap into a DX, most likely the problem is something to do with the wiring (this wires would be added on DPFI to MPFI swap) - if the car is Si or HF, most likely a bad distributor - code 10 is for the Intake Air Temp sensor which is located on the intake manifold - it is white diamond shaped with 2 wire connector - most likely the wrong connector is plugged into the sensor - wire colors should be red/yellow stripe and green/white stripe
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlicrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">need more info - is this a new swap? what model CRX? code 6 is from the coolant temp sensor which is located on the end of the head below and in front of the distributor - has 2 wire connector with red/white stripe and green/white stripe wires - make sure it is plugged in and that the connector isn't damaged (wires break on these all the time) - if connection is good, then sensor may be bad - code 9 CYL sensor in the distributor - if this is a swap into a DX, most likely the problem is something to do with the wiring (this wires would be added on DPFI to MPFI swap) - if the car is Si or HF, most likely a bad distributor - code 10 is for the Intake Air Temp sensor which is located on the intake manifold - it is white diamond shaped with 2 wire connector - most likely the wrong connector is plugged into the sensor - wire colors should be red/yellow stripe and green/white stripe </TD></TR></TABLE>
its a 88crx hf, the swap had about 30k and the distributer everything was replaced, i had this swap in my 90 crx hf but i crashed it, so i took out the swap and put it in the 88crx hf, so the distributer and stuff is new but i dont know what is the problem and would that cause the engine to bog when i tap the pedal a little bit, and it hesitates when i start it like tatatatatattata and then vroom it kicks over
its a 88crx hf, the swap had about 30k and the distributer everything was replaced, i had this swap in my 90 crx hf but i crashed it, so i took out the swap and put it in the 88crx hf, so the distributer and stuff is new but i dont know what is the problem and would that cause the engine to bog when i tap the pedal a little bit, and it hesitates when i start it like tatatatatattata and then vroom it kicks over
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kantfadedisazn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
its a 88crx hf, the swap had about 30k and the distributer everything was replaced, i had this swap in my 90 crx hf but i crashed it, so i took out the swap and put it in the 88crx hf, so the distributer and stuff is new but i dont know what is the problem and would that cause the engine to bog when i tap the pedal a little bit, and it hesitates when i start it like tatatatatattata and then vroom it kicks over</TD></TR></TABLE>
which engine wiring harness is on it? you need the 88 harness - the 90 is not the same
its a 88crx hf, the swap had about 30k and the distributer everything was replaced, i had this swap in my 90 crx hf but i crashed it, so i took out the swap and put it in the 88crx hf, so the distributer and stuff is new but i dont know what is the problem and would that cause the engine to bog when i tap the pedal a little bit, and it hesitates when i start it like tatatatatattata and then vroom it kicks over</TD></TR></TABLE>
which engine wiring harness is on it? you need the 88 harness - the 90 is not the same
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlicrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
which engine wiring harness is on it? you need the 88 harness - the 90 is not the same</TD></TR></TABLE>
the engine harness was left untouched its the same that i had in the 90 i took everything completely, oohhh dam for real, well the thing is that i took it to a mechanic, and he had wired everything rite because he told me wen i took it to him the wiring was wrong so he fixed it, the car didnt start before but he got it started, he said the cel was maybe the ecu but it wasnt
which engine wiring harness is on it? you need the 88 harness - the 90 is not the same</TD></TR></TABLE>
the engine harness was left untouched its the same that i had in the 90 i took everything completely, oohhh dam for real, well the thing is that i took it to a mechanic, and he had wired everything rite because he told me wen i took it to him the wiring was wrong so he fixed it, the car didnt start before but he got it started, he said the cel was maybe the ecu but it wasnt
it starts, but stutters when i start it, and kinda bogs when i tap the gas, it drives but im affraid about the cel, and those were the codes taht came up#6,#9,#10
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ICeDoUt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">same problem with my car, 88 crx si body, 90 crx si motor/ harness.... and cold starts are a bitch, carcks for 10-15 seconds before it starts</TD></TR></TABLE>
dam that is what is happening to me
dam that is what is happening to me
put the 88 engine harness on it - my guess is your mechanic switched wires around at the driver's side connector to get it to run, but not passenger side connector
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlicrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put the 88 engine harness on it - my guess is your mechanic switched wires around at the driver's side connector to get it to run, but not passenger side connector </TD></TR></TABLE>
but would that cause those sensors to go off, and the car stuttering when starting it, plus it kinda bogs when i tap the gas
but would that cause those sensors to go off, and the car stuttering when starting it, plus it kinda bogs when i tap the gas
the wires are in different locations in the connectors on the 88 and 90 harnesses - i suppose you could re-pin the connector - never tried it myself to see if it works - don't know if all the wires are there
1st rule of engine swap wiring - always use the engine harness for the car you are swapping into - not all harnesses are interchangeable
1st rule of engine swap wiring - always use the engine harness for the car you are swapping into - not all harnesses are interchangeable
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlicrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the wires are in different locations in the connectors on the 88 and 90 harnesses - i suppose you could re-pin the connector - never tried it myself to see if it works - don't know if all the wires are there
1st rule of engine swap wiring - always use the engine harness for the car you are swapping into - not all harnesses are interchangeable</TD></TR></TABLE>
i guess but my question is would that cause the car to bo when i tap the gas, and the those sensors to go off
1st rule of engine swap wiring - always use the engine harness for the car you are swapping into - not all harnesses are interchangeable</TD></TR></TABLE>
i guess but my question is would that cause the car to bo when i tap the gas, and the those sensors to go off
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlicrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the wires are in different locations in the connectors on the 88 and 90 harnesses - i suppose you could re-pin the connector - never tried it myself to see if it works - don't know if all the wires are there
1st rule of engine swap wiring - always use the engine harness for the car you are swapping into - not all harnesses are interchangeable</TD></TR></TABLE>
I repinned the drivers side myself, i know they are correct.. i wasn't aware that there was differences on the passenger side.... Also it's extremly hard to find an 88 si harness uncut, that is a TRUE 88 harness
1st rule of engine swap wiring - always use the engine harness for the car you are swapping into - not all harnesses are interchangeable</TD></TR></TABLE>
I repinned the drivers side myself, i know they are correct.. i wasn't aware that there was differences on the passenger side.... Also it's extremly hard to find an 88 si harness uncut, that is a TRUE 88 harness
thanks for all the help guys, i just found out the problem i think, the spark plug wires are bad and so are the spark plugs, so it was not getting any spark that is y it hesitated when i started the car, also causing it to boggg, plus my trottle cable was loose so that caused it to bogg to, but i think after i change all that the codes should go away, but if any thing else happens ill keep updated, but thanks for all the support espeacially (jlicrx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ICeDoUt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't see how replacing plugs and wires will get rid of your ect code, even your iat code, but i guess we'll see, lemme know how it goes</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah the cel is still on dont know what the hell it is, car runs fine i fixed the bogging situation, new plugs, plug wires, distributer, etc. but still with the same codes, i dont no y #6 is coming on becaues the coolant sensor was changed i dunno
yeah the cel is still on dont know what the hell it is, car runs fine i fixed the bogging situation, new plugs, plug wires, distributer, etc. but still with the same codes, i dont no y #6 is coming on becaues the coolant sensor was changed i dunno



