I recently blead my brakes and once I was done, it needed to be done again because it didn't feel the same. Once I did, I took it out for a spin, I was going out of my drive way and i pushed my brake and it went to the floor. Once I did, I repressed the brake and I had brake pressure. It happened again a second time and I repressed the brake again. My question now is, what is wrong with my brakes? There isn't a air in the system that I know of. I blead the brakes 3 times and have enough brake fluid to fill an 8 oz cup. Can it be the master, booster or the check valve? If check valve, whats the part number at an autozone or kragens if anyone knows? Lastly, when removing the brake hose from the brake booster, does fluid come out? or whats inside of the booster? Thanks

 

I would guess bad master cylinder. If you remove the hose to the booster, there isn't (or shouldn't be) any fluid. You will just hear a release of the vacuum air.

 

why did you blead the brakes to start with? did you have this problem before you touched it?

 

when I would push on the brakes it would stop, but about 3/4 to full brake pressure, the peddle would hit the floor. So I blead the brakes. So bad master? I was thinking it could be master, booster, or the check valve.

 

Its a bad master cylinder. Fluid is passing by the seals inside the master cylinder.

 

Your positive? damn!

 

Yes Sir i am. If the pedal sinks to the floor like it is then yes it's the master.

 

Yep I agree

 

Its funny though, cause it will sink to the floor and then when i pump again, it works. How can the thing leak fluid past the seals then work? Looks like I better get a new MC or a used one that works.

 

Get one from a 90-91 EX sedan. It's 15/16" vs. stock 13/16"

And it didn't cost any more for a reman unit last I checked

 

isn't the 90-91 ex rear disc? i don't have rear disk.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UltimX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">isn't the 90-91 ex rear disc? i don't have rear disk.</TD></TR></TABLE>

NO, it doesnt come with rear disc. it comes with 10.2" disc in the front. i would go with ur stock MC, u could get other problems if u just upgrade the mc and not the callipers and rotors. IMO.

 

can't be booster or the check vavle (that would have to do with hard pedal)

low pedal=leak/air

pumping to build pressure=master is loosing fluid, and by pumping you fill it up from the reservoir

replace the master

that happens sometimes when you bleed brakes on the old car, with pumping the pedal (**** load of time) you blow the master seals out..

 

I just had the same problem, had to pump the brakes sometimes to get pressure up. Replacing the master cylinder fixed it. I recommend a new one, they're not too expensive and I think come with a lifetime warranty from Autozone.

 

when u go to parts store take the old mc and insert a screw driver into it ( simulating the push rod of the booster) match the depth to the new one exactly if the depth of the new mc is different from the old one ur brakes may stay on all of the time or a low pedal can occur .

 

So, since one person said not to upgrade, should I not upgrade to 15/16"? I plan on getting upgrading to bigger front and rear disc's but it won't be for a while.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tealjdmcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when u go to parts store take the old mc and insert a screw driver into it ( simulating the push rod of the booster) match the depth to the new one exactly if the depth of the new mc is different from the old one ur brakes may stay on all of the time or a low pedal can occur . </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the info, but how far do I push? I think i pressed the peddle too far because it felt weird when I reached the bottem. So, since I pressed too far i'm guessing, if I put the screw driver where the push rod for the brake booster went, since I pushed too far before, it will just go back to where it was last time I pushed and the measurements will be off... Right?

 

Get the bigger MC, nothing bad will happen. I've put 20k miles on mine with no problems at all.

And personally I wouldn't go jamming a screwdriver in my new MC before installation. That sounds like crazy talk. Just make sure you bench bleed it before you put it on. Get ALL the bubbles out first

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tealjdmcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when u go to parts store take the old mc and insert a screw driver into it ( simulating the push rod of the booster) match the depth to the new one exactly if the depth of the new mc is different from the old one ur brakes may stay on all of the time or a low pedal can occur . </TD></TR></TABLE>

that's true but you only adjust the pushrod when you have an issue from the factory, or you install new booster on it. pushrod is preset from the factory, and there is only one spec for it. No need to adust it just because you are replacing the master.

And if you have to adjust the pushrod there is a special precise tool for that, not a fucken screw driver.

Trust me I replaced many MCs, and plus I'm ASE cetified in this ****.

just make sure you put the gasket (if there is one) between master and the booster.

Once again don't touch your pushrod.

 

this is something I want to hear, 20k and still goin strong. Do you have rear drums also?

Thanks for the feed back everyone.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UltimX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is something I want to hear, 20k and still goin strong. Do you have rear drums also?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nah did the whole DA swap, prop valve, & MC all at once cause I hate bleeding brakes. One fell swoop is the only way to go. Let us know the verdict when you get one.

 

the ex master is way to much... so i'm just going to opt for the stock one. i'll get it hopefully tomarrow and get it on and tell everyone here if that was the cause, mostliky is.