i am in the process of putting an h23 together and wanna build it to race, i was wondering if there is any way to still have reliability as a driven car, but be able to rev to 8k at will in an h23?

has anyone done it, or can it even be done?

thanks,
chad

 

NOOOOS YO

 

pfft you can get your **** balanced to like 10k and turbo that bitch 12-15 lbs pretty much stock block and probly rev to 7500

 

i think instead of having a goal of being able to rev to 8k, you should set your goal to actually making power that high

 

making power there isnt really the problem, its making your crank last long enough to get there. the h23 cranks are horrible for for much use past 6500-7000 rpms. they are just weak weak weak. thats the main reason that a h22 head swap isnt as common as you would think. your best bet would be to go turbo. if you are gonna be building as well, you might as well look into new sleeves because we got stuck with the frm sleeves, which will not accept forged slugs very well. the coating will get ground off and then you will not have any compression at all. however i know that mahle is making pistons for the h22 which has the same sleeves and they are forged, but they are nitride coated as well. might be worth checking out. but if you are looking for the higher revs, then might as well save your pennies and go for an h22. they are made for the higher revs and abuse that comes with it. my opinion by the time you have saved up money for a h22 swap, you could have already turboed the h23 and just running 8-10 lbs of boost and good tuning, you're gonna be putting down more power.. just my .02 cents.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by championshipwhite93si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">making power there isnt really the problem, its making your crank last long enough to get there. the h23 cranks are horrible for for much use past 6500-7000 rpms. they are just weak weak weak. thats the main reason that a h22 head swap isnt as common as you would think. your best bet would be to go turbo. if you are gonna be building as well, you might as well look into new sleeves because we got stuck with the frm sleeves, which will not accept forged slugs very well. the coating will get ground off and then you will not have any compression at all. however i know that mahle is making pistons for the h22 which has the same sleeves and they are forged, but they are nitride coated as well. might be worth checking out. but if you are looking for the higher revs, then might as well save your pennies and go for an h22. they are made for the higher revs and abuse that comes with it. my opinion by the time you have saved up money for a h22 swap, you could have already turboed the h23 and just running 8-10 lbs of boost and good tuning, you're gonna be putting down more power.. just my .02 cents.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree

 

didnt someone on here do somethin to the h23 crank and make it work well with the high revs, i think it was in an accord though??

i remember readin somethin bout it but cant remember who it was

 

no one has any idea of who i'm talkin bout??

 

they possibly could have micropolished the crank rotating the assembly and had the motor blue printed. Or you could run a stronger H22 crankshaft inside your H23.

 

^^ that you can. its alot stronger, but esentially you are de-stroking the motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94SuperLudeSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am in the process of putting an h23 together and wanna build it to race, i was wondering if there is any way to still have reliability as a driven car, but be able to rev to 8k at will in an h23?

has anyone done it, or can it even be done?

thanks,
chad</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes people have done it, the OaksRacing guy mentioned in another post about his setup, which he mentioned worked perfectly fine..

Get a machine shop to balance everything well.. both seperately(rods as well) and as an assembly, then I would run a tad bit looser main/rod bearing clearances..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by championshipwhite93si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^ that you can. its alot stronger, but esentially you are de-stroking the motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The H22 crank isn't any stronger than an H23 crank, where have you heard of H23 cranks failing? The difference is obviously the r/s ratio bla bla bla, you have heard it a million times..

If you are doin somethin like this you might as well allow for more clearnace on the crank main/rod bearings and use a thicker oil (xw40 or xw50 wt)

You always hear about bearing failures on these kinds of setups, but people just plop on an H22 head and think they are good to go.. compare the bearing clearances on an H23 to an H22. Bottom line is they didn't do the necessary work to pull it off so they fucked it up..

IMO, the r/s ratio this ratio that is blown way out of proportion..

 

Balance the h23 properly and rpm to 8k shouldnt be a problem in terms of reliability. I ran both an h23 and h23/h22 setup for 5+ years turbocharged (fully built, balanced, etc.). The crank was balanced and micropolished (but not knife-edged). Main and rod bearings were in always in mint condition after winter teardowns and were even reused on many occasions. Just do it right and u will be fine at 8k (but I do have to disagree with the earlier post that you will have "no problem" making power that high).
I seem to write this every week...obviously searching skills of many are bad.

 

thanks for the help man,
i appreciate it.

i have searched before but everyone is always talkin bout how you should not even use the h23 , jus save the $$ and get an h22, but i already have 1 to build so it would be pointless to waste my $$ on an h22.

all help was greatly appreciated.

i'll update how everything goes.

 

im in the same boat as you, i have an h23 in my garage. but the more i read the more i think i am just going to post the motor on ebay or something and use the cash to get an h22 swap off of like hmotors online. the reliability and power of the h22 just seems more logical now

 

the key statement you said was to balance the crank. alot of people dont have the 500 to 1000 dollars to have their cranks worked just to hold 2000 more rpms, let alone alot of people dont have a spare crank to mess with. and as for the cranks failing its not a matter of that, its the bearings. over at absoluteprelude.com there are many documented h23/vtec hybrids that suffered from bearing failure since the crank wasnt balanced for the new rpm range. just speaking from experience, ive saw 2 blow personally and thats with the bearing swapped to allow for the new clearances.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by championshipwhite93si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the key statement you said was to balance the crank. alot of people dont have the 500 to 1000 dollars to have their cranks worked just to hold 2000 more rpms, let alone alot of people dont have a spare crank to mess with. and as for the cranks failing its not a matter of that, its the bearings. over at absoluteprelude.com there are many documented h23/vtec hybrids that suffered from bearing failure since the crank wasnt balanced for the new rpm range. just speaking from experience, ive saw 2 blow personally and thats with the bearing swapped to allow for the new clearances.</TD></TR></TABLE>

There are too many possibilities to guess on what was the cause imo, it could have been a faulty install for all we know..

if you don't have the money, don't do it :D

 

install has been pretty straight forward. both times were handled by pretty competent machine shop. who knows. im with you though. if you dont have the money dont do it. its been done but it takes alot of work

 

So, as long as the crank is balanced you are okay? What about offset grinding a h22 crank to get more stroke (like the h23 crank has)?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about offset grinding a h22 crank to get more stroke (like the h23 crank has)?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You could do this, but then you'd have to find rods to work with it, and it doesn't make a lot of sense to modify a H22 crank to get more stroke when you can just substitute a H23/F22 crank.

 

Yeah, if you want torque, use an H22a4 block, F23 crank w/ an offset grind.