EXAUST BOLTS
Hey, so i just got my new exhaust and iam getting started on it right now. I searched but did not find anything. So how do you go about removing the old exhaust bolts? Ive tried by they are stuck on there pretty good and don't really wanna give up. Any tips would be awsome cant wait for the new exhaust!!!!!!! thanks
They make diffrent type of sparys that losen rusted and tight bolts.. im sure if u search google
http://www.iboats.com/products....html
stuff like this, im not saying buy that, im sure uc an find something at walmart.
http://www.iboats.com/products....html
stuff like this, im not saying buy that, im sure uc an find something at walmart.
Which bolts are you talking about? How much of the exhaust system are you replacing?
Unless you're talking about where the downpipe meets up with the manifold, use an angle grinder.
Unless you're talking about where the downpipe meets up with the manifold, use an angle grinder.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda_Accord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if u dont have a grinder, its just better to get the liquid stuff, grinders and blades are kinda expensive </TD></TR></TABLE>
if you need a grinder to take off the bolt, chances are liquid spray aint gonna do **** to it.
if you need a grinder to take off the bolt, chances are liquid spray aint gonna do **** to it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eddiebx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if you need a grinder to take off the bolt, chances are liquid spray aint gonna do **** to it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
he doesnt need one, people were suggesting to just grind the bolts off instead. and grinders are costly, its just easier to get either the liquid stuff or even what nail05 said, and get wd 40 instead of buying a 40 dollar grinder
if you need a grinder to take off the bolt, chances are liquid spray aint gonna do **** to it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
he doesnt need one, people were suggesting to just grind the bolts off instead. and grinders are costly, its just easier to get either the liquid stuff or even what nail05 said, and get wd 40 instead of buying a 40 dollar grinder
my little dremel w/ a few cutting wheels did the trick for my car...
get stainless steel bolts for the header & use a good soaking time w/ PB Blaster (~$4.oo from Walmart) for the old header bolts before attempting to break them loose... dab a small amount of anti-seize on the threads of the bolts & don't overtorque them to the cyl head...
the bolts for the pipe-to-cat-to-pipe connections are optional stainless steel or not, up 2 u, since they're relatively easy (for me) to just grind 'em off the next time...
get stainless steel bolts for the header & use a good soaking time w/ PB Blaster (~$4.oo from Walmart) for the old header bolts before attempting to break them loose... dab a small amount of anti-seize on the threads of the bolts & don't overtorque them to the cyl head...
the bolts for the pipe-to-cat-to-pipe connections are optional stainless steel or not, up 2 u, since they're relatively easy (for me) to just grind 'em off the next time...
i just used 5 bricks on each side to keep the car up, and WD40 and it took me about 3 1/2 hours to get one off, and the rest 20 mins each once i found a way to make it easyer.
the one bolt on the top thats hard to reach I used the own cars weight to get that one lose. I just got the stock jack under the wranch, and jack it up. it worked out great, but i had hell putting the bolt back on when i was done tho.
the one bolt on the top thats hard to reach I used the own cars weight to get that one lose. I just got the stock jack under the wranch, and jack it up. it worked out great, but i had hell putting the bolt back on when i was done tho.
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