My car shakes like a banshi!!!
Still trying to figure this one out. When my car is cold, it seems like my clutch grabs and lets go a couple of times and then my front left tire hops and I get a really nice banging sound from the same front wheel well. This doesn't happen when the car is warmed up.
Also, I get a similar sound (like something is pounding or like I am running over those strips on the side of the highway that warn you if you are veering off- accept the slots would be farther apart creating a slower pounding sound) when I'm driving on the freeway and accelerate. It never happens when I am coasting or braking. Sometimes it happens at 70 and sometimes at other speeds, but always when I am accelerating.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!!!
Also, I get a similar sound (like something is pounding or like I am running over those strips on the side of the highway that warn you if you are veering off- accept the slots would be farther apart creating a slower pounding sound) when I'm driving on the freeway and accelerate. It never happens when I am coasting or braking. Sometimes it happens at 70 and sometimes at other speeds, but always when I am accelerating.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!!!
mine did same thing... i thought rear mount, but the valves needed adjusting.
try adjusting valves, if that doesnt work, replace that rear motor mount
try adjusting valves, if that doesnt work, replace that rear motor mount
Id double check your passenger mounts and such. Does the shaking in cold happen when your driving or at idle? If its on the left side, id jack up the car and look around to see if anything is broken. You could also try spinning the tire and see if you can replicated that sound that you heard on the highway.
How hard is it to adjust the valves?
I definately check my mounts. How would I tell that they need to be replaced? I will also try jacking the car up to try and replicate the sound.
The shaking happens when I engage the clutch when it is cold. My tire does a nice little hopping and then I get the banging sound.
Thanks for all your help!
I definately check my mounts. How would I tell that they need to be replaced? I will also try jacking the car up to try and replicate the sound.
The shaking happens when I engage the clutch when it is cold. My tire does a nice little hopping and then I get the banging sound.
Thanks for all your help!
If there are tears or holes inside the mount then the mount is bad. Since the passenger, front, and driver are all visible those will be easy to check. When was the last time you change your clutch? Gears go in smooth?
Does the vehicle exibit any oil leaks in the vicinity of the clutch bell housing? Oil leaks which contaminate the clutch disc can caues the clutch to chatter. A broken l/s motor mount could allow the engine to jump as the clutch engages / disengages.
Do you hear any rythmic snaps / knocks when turning?
One thing you might try is open the hood and have someone (standing off to the side) watch as you slowly engage the clucth. You should see very little in the way of engine movement. If you do, start the mount inspection program.
P
Do you hear any rythmic snaps / knocks when turning?
One thing you might try is open the hood and have someone (standing off to the side) watch as you slowly engage the clucth. You should see very little in the way of engine movement. If you do, start the mount inspection program.
P
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1305086
valve adjustment writeup.
that is for a civic i think, so dont go by their numbers.
just look in your helms or haynes manual (you do have one right?) for the numbers.
f22a1 is intake .010 in exhuast .012 inch
i dunno if its the same for the other f22's or not
valve adjustment writeup.
that is for a civic i think, so dont go by their numbers.
just look in your helms or haynes manual (you do have one right?) for the numbers.
f22a1 is intake .010 in exhuast .012 inch
i dunno if its the same for the other f22's or not
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NAiL05- I've only had the car for three weeks but the previous owner didn't mention that the clutch had been repaired at anytime. As for the synchros they are fine. I can switch to any gear with any problems. What I get when I drive the car when it is not completely warmed up is the chatter that P describes.
P- watching while someone engages the clutch is an ingenius idea! That way I can which motor mount is causing the engine to move around, or alternatively where the pounding is coming from. I don't hear the typical sounds when turning that would indicate cv joint issues. I'm wondering- the previous owner stated that both axles had been changed a couple of months ago. Would an axle installed incorrectly cause the sounds I described above?
cb7- Looks like a great article for valve adjustment. I do have a helm's manual.
Thanks for all your help!!!! I'll keep you posted once I get a chance to perform some of the suggestions you posted.
P- watching while someone engages the clutch is an ingenius idea! That way I can which motor mount is causing the engine to move around, or alternatively where the pounding is coming from. I don't hear the typical sounds when turning that would indicate cv joint issues. I'm wondering- the previous owner stated that both axles had been changed a couple of months ago. Would an axle installed incorrectly cause the sounds I described above?
cb7- Looks like a great article for valve adjustment. I do have a helm's manual.
Thanks for all your help!!!! I'll keep you posted once I get a chance to perform some of the suggestions you posted.
I watched the mounts while I had a friend engage the clutch. I saw the motor move backwards towards the fire wall. Seemed like there is some play there. Not sure though how much is too much.
P- you were right, I do have oil around the clutch bell housing. Not sure why there would be oil there.....
I have another question for you: I notice that my steering wheel is rotating back and forth quickly when I'm driving when I don't have my hands on the wheel or when I turn it feels jerky. Is this the power steering pump? What else would cause this?
Thanks!!
P- you were right, I do have oil around the clutch bell housing. Not sure why there would be oil there.....
I have another question for you: I notice that my steering wheel is rotating back and forth quickly when I'm driving when I don't have my hands on the wheel or when I turn it feels jerky. Is this the power steering pump? What else would cause this?
Thanks!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patentguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I watched the mounts while I had a friend engage the clutch. I saw the motor move backwards towards the fire wall. Seemed like there is some play there. Not sure though how much is too much.
P- you were right, I do have oil around the clutch bell housing.
Q1 Not sure why there would be oil there.....
Q2 I have another question for you: I notice that my steering wheel is rotating back and forth quickly when I'm driving when I don't have my hands on the wheel or when I turn it feels jerky. Is this the power steering pump? What else would cause this?
Thanks!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
A1 - You've several sources of oil leaks in that area:
1) Valve Cover Gasket
2) Rear Main Crankshaft Seal
A2 - You've a broken belt on one of your front tires. The tire will give you a hint of this with a pronounced bump or bulge on the effected tires sidewall. To confirm this, raise the car with the front wheels hanging, start the car and while idling, put it into gear. Watch the tire tread from the front. It should run perfectly smooth with no apparent movement. If you see a deformity or the tread jumps to the side while rotating, you've got a broken belt.
P
P- you were right, I do have oil around the clutch bell housing.
Q1 Not sure why there would be oil there.....
Q2 I have another question for you: I notice that my steering wheel is rotating back and forth quickly when I'm driving when I don't have my hands on the wheel or when I turn it feels jerky. Is this the power steering pump? What else would cause this?
Thanks!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
A1 - You've several sources of oil leaks in that area:
1) Valve Cover Gasket
2) Rear Main Crankshaft Seal
A2 - You've a broken belt on one of your front tires. The tire will give you a hint of this with a pronounced bump or bulge on the effected tires sidewall. To confirm this, raise the car with the front wheels hanging, start the car and while idling, put it into gear. Watch the tire tread from the front. It should run perfectly smooth with no apparent movement. If you see a deformity or the tread jumps to the side while rotating, you've got a broken belt.
P
Thanks!! Come to think of it, I did notice when I had the front drvier's side tire off when doing the timing belt change that it seems in one small spot that the tread might be trying to separate from the tire. I'll get new tires this week. I suspect that the separating tread/ broken belt might be the cause of my shaking/ pounding problem at highway speeds....
Oh, and how much play is there supposed to be with the mounts? I noticed that the engine probably moved between one and two inches backwards towards the fire wall when my friend let out the clutch rather quickly.
Thanks again!!
Oh, and how much play is there supposed to be with the mounts? I noticed that the engine probably moved between one and two inches backwards towards the fire wall when my friend let out the clutch rather quickly.
Thanks again!!
I have had a clutch shudder for years. Same symptoms for the most part. Car sits overnight and for about the first 15 min. of driving there is this jackhammer vibration as I engage the clutch in first gear. The more it is feathered and the higher the RPMs the more severe the impacts. The worst is starting off on an incline. Once it is warmed up it seems fine. I have come to the conclusion there is some kind of contamination or hot spot between the flywheel and clutch disc. As soon as it starts to slip, I will replace it and hope for the best (currently at 300,000 miles with no slippage). Thanks to this thread, I will be checking the rear main seal when I do it as this seems like a likely contamination source. Car sits overnight, oil builds up causing slippage untill it is cleaned up a bit during driving, repeat.
dude, i can barely get off the game and here you go bringing halo up
na, just kidding, i saw banshi and couldn't help but to think bout HALO 2
anyways, i believe you can call that chatter from the clutch.
na, just kidding, i saw banshi and couldn't help but to think bout HALO 2anyways, i believe you can call that chatter from the clutch.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93cb7sedan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1305086
valve adjustment writeup.
that is for a civic i think, so dont go by their numbers.
just look in your helms or haynes manual (you do have one right?) for the numbers.
f22a1 is intake .010 in exhuast .012 inch
i dunno if its the same for the other f22's or not</TD></TR></TABLE>
P,
I have the same exact problem when starting cold... the engine seems to jump when i engage the clutch as the engine is reving high to warm up. I simply feather the clutch with very little gas to get it to get going smoothly. When you say L/S mount, is that driver's side or passenger side mount? Left or right hand side depends on which way you look at the engine.
Thanks
valve adjustment writeup.
that is for a civic i think, so dont go by their numbers.
just look in your helms or haynes manual (you do have one right?) for the numbers.
f22a1 is intake .010 in exhuast .012 inch
i dunno if its the same for the other f22's or not</TD></TR></TABLE>
P,
I have the same exact problem when starting cold... the engine seems to jump when i engage the clutch as the engine is reving high to warm up. I simply feather the clutch with very little gas to get it to get going smoothly. When you say L/S mount, is that driver's side or passenger side mount? Left or right hand side depends on which way you look at the engine.
Thanks
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