I recently rebuilted my B18C1 from top to bottom, new main and rod bearings, new seals all around, valve job etc...

I was told to break it in, what do they mean by break it in? Dont rev over 4K? Thats what i have been doing. HELP!@!#

 

Some say beat the hell out of it and thats the way it will want to be treated....and others say use non detergent oil and slowly break it in untill about 800 miles. People will stand behind both sides so its up to you.

 

I am so eager to smash the **** out of it pwhahahha. But i dont want **** to start leaking out u know? Dont i need all the damn seals to settle?

 

I dont think so since they are the best right out of the box, correct? The only thing that you have to worry about is the rings seating properly so that you dont burn alot of oil. Nothin should leak if you warm it up before smashing on it.

 

Yup all honda parts from top to bottom. I am just having them knocking noises at around 2k

 

you cant baby the motor, otherwise the rings wont seat properly..
there a plenty of articles, here and on the internet that have different theories..

but from what i understand you need various loads on the motor, ie do a couple runs at part throttle and let it engine break back down...after it warms up of course

gradually increase throttle and rpms for each run...

but look around here and youll find what youre looking for..

i do know that "babying" the motor for 2k miles or whatever is bad..it needs to be loaded to seat the rings properly

search for "motor break in" in archives...
i found this along with many others
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

Once your rings seat the motor is 'broken in'.

A simple compression test will tell you exactly where you are at.

Before you read any further, know that the most important factor in breaking in a new motor is having a solid basemap with proper fueling!

<u>Startup:</u>
Idle the motor for 15-20 minutes. Change the oil but not the filter. This is for flushing the assembly lube out of the system, which affects viscosity and while it doesn't harm bearings, it isn't optimal for seating rings. This idle process is usefull for a couple reasons, for one it gives you the oppourtunity to check for any leaks, and to make sure your air-fuel's are in order (if you have a wideband).

<U>Driving:</U>
The motor is now ready drive. When driving, the two most important things to remember is vary the load, and keep heat down, and remember high RPM's create heat. This means vary the RPM's, even when cruising. For example, shift into a high gear early, lets say 4th gear at 25 mph, and accelerate at 1/2 throttle to 50mph. Repeat this process in high gears and low speed while accelerating (high load).

<U>Compression:</U>
Check your compression frequently. This will tell you how each cylinder is doing. Once all the cylinders are within 2-3% of eachother, your rings have seated. To give you an idea of how long this should take, after 200 miles on my 2.0L my compression was 270psi accross the board.

<U>Oil:</U>
I break in my motors by running cheap oil, ie: Castrol GTX. I change the oil and filter at 100, 200, 500 and 1000. Some do it more frequently, and some less frequent. I do this to make sure the metal from the break-in process does not enter the oil passages and screw up a bearing. After 1000 I switched to synthetic.

Good luck.

 

Check out this article on TI. Written by Michael Delaney.

http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=389

 

A friend of mine just had his engine rebuilt and was told not to let it idle, but to take it on a highway trip for 40 minutes or so. Worked good

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Once your rings seat the motor is 'broken in'.

A simple compression test will tell you exactly where you are at.

Before you read any further, know that the most important factor in breaking in a new motor is having a solid basemap with proper fueling!

<u>Startup:</u>
Idle the motor for 15-20 minutes. Change the oil but not the filter. This is for flushing the assembly lube out of the system, which affects viscosity and while it doesn't harm bearings, it isn't optimal for seating rings. This idle process is usefull for a couple reasons, for one it gives you the oppourtunity to check for any leaks, and to make sure your air-fuel's are in order (if you have a wideband).

<U>Driving:</U>
The motor is now ready drive. When driving, the two most important things to remember is vary the load, and keep heat down, and remember high RPM's create heat. This means vary the RPM's, even when cruising. For example, shift into a high gear early, lets say 4th gear at 25 mph, and accelerate at 1/2 throttle to 50mph. Repeat this process in high gears and low speed while accelerating (high load).

<U>Compression:</U>
Check your compression frequently. This will tell you how each cylinder is doing. Once all the cylinders are within 2-3% of eachother, your rings have seated. To give you an idea of how long this should take, after 200 miles on my 2.0L my compression was 270psi accross the board.

<U>Oil:</U>
I break in my motors by running cheap oil, ie: Castrol GTX. I change the oil and filter at 100, 200, 500 and 1000. Some do it more frequently, and some less frequent. I do this to make sure the metal from the break-in process does not enter the oil passages and screw up a bearing. After 1000 I switched to synthetic.

Good luck.
</TD></TR></TABLE>WOW a post on honda-tech with substance. This is a rarity.

Cast rings should seat within 500 miles, moly rings about 1000-1500.
If this is a race motor and rings don't matter all you gotta do is the initial start up procedure, change the oil and go racing. Bearings and seals don't need to be broken in.