Hey guys i am a noob to alarm installation and just need some direction.
I own a JDM 1990 CR-X SiR (EF8) and have recently bought a reputable alarm (reputable in my country anyway). And i need assistance on how to wire it up.

Anyway lets begin with the wiring diagram and then i will ask some questions .


Ok that's the diagram. Basically the alarm comes with the alarm box and an optional siren. I do not have any use for aux, boot release or door unlocking at this time (might get a door unlocking kit in the future though).


So basically i am wondering about the best way to wire it all up, some things are confusing me though, such as why there are 2 wires instead of 1 in a lot of cases.

now onto the questions.
Where to place the box? I presume in the dash under near the steering column?

12V Where do i connect that, is there a 12v wire in the ignition if so what colour? And why are there two 12v cables? how do i go about that?
GND Is there a ground cable recommended to connect to.. or just screw it to part of the body? And again with 2 cables do i have to find 2 different locations/cables?
BLKL Left blinker connection, do i have to connect this to a wire in the fuse box, if so what colour etc. And do i just T piece the wire? Also output is 4amp max, is this fine?
BLKR Same as above
IGN What colour is the ignition switched lead, and again, just T piece it?
Door Meant for neg switching doors, is this what i have.. do i just T between the door switch and the interior light? where do i recommend i tap it?

now to the damn immobilisers.. these are confusing me a little
IM1A Now why are there 2 wires? Basically i can see why i would cut the starter motor wire and connect ONE IM1A to it.. but does it want me to connect both IM1A's? If so why.. and where is the starter wire.. like what is the best? under the fuse box in the engine bay? What colour?
IM1B This just connects to the other side of the wire going to the actual start i presume.. but why TWO wires???

IM3A This is just connecting to the ignition wire.. what colour is it?
IM3B and this is the other side of the wire going to the barrel...

IM2A to the fuel pump.. what colour.. the fuse box in the engine bay again?
IM2B ""

Others I dont need AUX, -ARM, BOOT or the LOCKs because these are all options i dont have yet..

-SIREN and HOOD These goto the siren and hood switch.. any recommendations on grounding the switch if it has paint near it?

Also the siren has two wires saying BONNET (which is the same as HOOD).. there is no instructions for this.. anyone have a clue WTF they are for?


Also any other tips such as what grommets to go through.. how long can i have wires tapping other wires etc?
Also please no 'get an auto elect to do this' comments, everyone has to start somewhere.. i dont mind learning

cheers everyone,

 

ok i have been tracking down some of wiring info..

"Constant 12V+ White Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Black/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
DOOR TRIGGER GREEN/RED (-) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL
"
So i will T piece one of the 12v lines into the constant 12v
any recommendations where i should T the other 12v line?

And i will just connect the earth to two parts on the body

the the 12VDC ignition lead is just the IGNITION?

And the door circuit goes to the DOOR TRIGGER, again t piece?


Still wondering about the two wires for the immobilisation..
is the START the ignition that i must immbolise?

 

Constant 12V+ White Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Black/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Tach Blue Distributor
Neutral Safety Wire Green/White Gear Select Switch
Brake Switch Green/White Brake Switch
Trunk Pin Green/Black (-) Driver's Running Board
Parking Lights Red/Black Fuse Panel or Driver's Kick Panel
Head Lamp Red/Blue Fuse Panel
Hood Pin n/a
Factory Disarm n/a
Door Trigger Green/Red (-) Driver's Running Board
Door Lock n/a
Door Unlock n/a

 

Thats might help alittle. With the wires that you need to cut youll just need to finish the circuit with the alarm. its pretty simple.

 

Here this may help http://www.the12volt.com/insta...Alarm or this http://www.directwholesale.net...eID=3

The 2 wires each on the "IM" circuits is just so the wires are thick enough.

The fuel pump power wire is probably yellow/green and can be found at fuel pump relay close to fuse box.

Use the aux. neg. trigger input for the hatch trigger, found along with door trigger at plug in on or around fuse box.

Use flat metal bracket, [holes at each end] to mount hood pin. remove a fender bolt slip bracket between fender and uni-body reinstall fender bolt mount pins witch in hole at other end, line up with spot on hood that will push pin-switch "open", no extra holes in car.

The siren should have 2 wires a black and a red the -SIREN goes to the black and the red goes to a 12V + constant, you can find that along with the park light free pins on the fuse box.

Doing it yourself

Feel free to IM me if you have other questions. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The 2 wires each on the "IM" circuits is just so the wires are thick enough.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was wondering why they did that. Yeah man its pretty easy on honda's. Also long as you dont rush through it.

 

thanks for that guys.. have a few more questions.. hopefully i remember them all (tried to post last night before the site went down )

For door trigger i plan to tap the passenger door switch wire.. i believe this is fine..

for immobilisation i plan to cut the + fuel wire?

i have 2 other immobilisations possible.
i was thinking doing the starter motor, should i just cut the wire in the ignition barrel or is there somewhere else easy to cut.. i hear that i may be a bad idea because it makes the car easier to steal.. but i will have two other immbolisers so this wont be a problem?

i was also thinking about cutting the wire that goes from the ECU fuse in the enginebay fuse box to the main relay.. would that be recommended? would it cut the power to the ECU though, and therefor reset it each time the immobiliser is activated?

Also i need a 12v power source for the siren.. any recommendations on what to tap in the engine bay? or should i connect it with the other 2 wires in the ignition 12v?

Any recommendations for immbolisation if these are no good?

Also the siren comes with 2 wires saying hood or bonnet or something.. but there is no instructions for these.. any idea what they are for?

Do i need to add any fuses anywhere.. i hear sometimes fuses are needed for 12v lines etc.. wont be needed will it?

Also with the blinker wires, i just T piece these onto the wires after the blinker stalk/switch, the wires for the left and right blinkers yeah?

also the -AUX is just like the door trigger yeah.. so i can T piece it between the hatch light and the hatch switch?

any other info i might need..

+ thanks alot guys been a real help

 

i also cant IM yet because i am a noob

But thanks FCM, your info has been helpful + u seem to know what you are talking about. I am learning quite abit by doing this myself (looking at wiring diagrams etc). So hopefully you can answer my questions..

cheers

 

 

 

 

 

dwaaadwadwaaw

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dxs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for that guys.. have a few more questions.. hopefully i remember them all (tried to post last night before the site went down )

For door trigger i plan to tap the passenger door switch wire.. i believe this is fine..
Im guessing your car is right hand drive. So it should be fine
for immobilisation i plan to cut the + fuel wire?
Yeah just cut it and use the im2a and im2b wires to complete the circuit

i have 2 other immobilisations possible.
i was thinking doing the starter motor, should i just cut the wire in the ignition barrel or is there somewhere else easy to cut.. i hear that i may be a bad idea because it makes the car easier to steal.. but i will have two other immbolisers so this wont be a problem?
Your right about the other immbolisers but the more the better. What I recommend doing is cutting the wire about an 1" from the key side and the connecter side and strip the wire. Then use im3a and im3b wires and soilder then to the part of the wire that is remaining.

i was also thinking about cutting the wire that goes from the ECU fuse in the enginebay fuse box to the main relay.. would that be recommended? would it cut the power to the ECU though, and therefor reset it each time the immobiliser is activated?
You can do that but the ecu will reset itself everytime you do so. But if you dont mind it reseting the ecu then I would recommend it.

Also i need a 12v power source for the siren.. any recommendations on what to tap in the engine bay? or should i connect it with the other 2 wires in the ignition 12v?
easiest way is just to connect it to the battery or fuse box but you can just tap off the 2 wires from the ignition or the 12 volt from your radio. im sure your not going to be using it while your siren is on


Any recommendations for immbolisation if these are no good?
geo metro skin for honda

Also the siren comes with 2 wires saying hood or bonnet or something.. but there is no instructions for these.. any idea what they are for?
Get a pin switch to connect inside the hood.
" Use flat metal bracket, [holes at each end] to mount hood pin. remove a fender bolt slip bracket between fender and uni-body reinstall fender bolt mount pins witch in hole at other end, line up with spot on hood that will push pin-switch "open", no extra holes in car.(FCM)"

Do i need to add any fuses anywhere.. i hear sometimes fuses are needed for 12v lines etc.. wont be needed will it?
Well most alarms i delt with had fuses on the lines that need them. Ill let fcm answer this one. Ive only delt with dei,audiovox,and bulldog alarms.

Also with the blinker wires, i just T piece these onto the wires after the blinker stalk/switch, the wires for the left and right blinkers yeah?
Thats correct. Pretty much when the alarm goes off its like the hazards are on. should be red/black wire in the kick panel

also the -AUX is just like the door trigger yeah.. so i can T piece it between the hatch light and the hatch switch?
well the -aux is if you have a trunk poper, window roll up, a/c turn on, defrosters. etc... Most of them you need to have a remote start alarm and modules. But if you have a trunk popper then just connect a relay to it and youll be able to open your trunk with a push of a button

any other info i might need..

+ thanks alot guys been a real help</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hope that helps you out. I think i mispelled some stuff but forgive me its midnight. Im not fully awake right now.

 

thanks heaps for that romo..

i doubt i will need any fuses..

so just reconfirming.. the two wires after the blink switches are meant to be T piece for the alarm..

and i doubt i want my ecu resetting each time by immobilising the wire from the fuse to the relay. Unless this is commonly done with alarm installs (is this wire often cut to immobilise???). So yeah i would really like info on where i should put the 3rd immobiliser.. fuel pump and starter are done..

and the geo metro joke made no sense to me.. i googled and came to a conclusion that they are some **** box hence no one would want to steal it..

should get into this install on thurs hopefully.. got some new 5zigen ef8 headers arrive today too! :D bla.. anyway

 

sorry man, here in the us they had a commerical that a guy had this car cover that looked like a old beat up car. Then he removed it and there was a brand new car under it.


With the lights just t into the red/black wire using both wires. It will just act as one pulse.

with alarms we dont touch the ecu. Just tap the igniton and starter im. under the sterring col.

 

thanks mate... but will T piecing the two wires from the stalk switch for the blinkers work?

Also i dont need to fuse anything (all the amp ratings for everything on the original picture will be fine with everything??)?

So can the AUX (which is a Negative Trigger Input, meant for other sensors) be used for the hatch light like i am using the negative door trigger?

so for the third immobilisation u recommend killing the igntion.. But my manual says 'under no circumstances should i cut the vehicles main ignition system, and it says to confirm this, check that when the system is armed, check that the dash lights come on when the ignition is in the ON position..

So no cutting of the ignition wire then.. any suggrestion for the 3rd immobilser???


after these questions i should be right.. just trying to confirm.. thanks!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dxs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks mate... but will T piecing the two wires from the stalk switch for the blinkers work?
yes it will worl

Also i dont need to fuse anything (all the amp ratings for everything on the original picture will be fine with everything??)? Youll be fine with out any.

So can the AUX (which is a Negative Trigger Input, meant for other sensors) be used for the hatch light like i am using the negative door trigger? Oh snaps my bad man. I couldnt read what it said and i thougt it was an output.

I would say connect it to your trunk pin and if someone opens the trunk your alarms goes off.

Trunk Pin Green/Black (-) Driver's Running Board

so for the third immobilisation u recommend killing the igntion.. But my manual says 'under no circumstances should i cut the vehicles main ignition system, and it says to confirm this, check that when the system is armed, check that the dash lights come on when the ignition is in the ON position..

So no cutting of the ignition wire then.. any suggrestion for the 3rd immobilser???
You dont need to worry about putting all 3 immobilisers. All the alarm does when it goes off it dosnt let a power signal go through the ignition. Just dont use that ignition immboilser. The vipers only come with a starter disable and if done correctly it will help you keep your car.


after these questions i should be right.. just trying to confirm.. thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

thanks again romo.. you have been a big help..

i guess i will leave the third immobilisation wires still connected.. and if i ever find a suitable use for them i will use them..

with saying that, if anyone knows a good place to use them then post away! The weird thing is that it has the note to not cut ignition for safety reasons yet the diagram and other instructions say to use it for ignition.. ? Maybe in a different spot.. i was thinking about killing the power for the injectors, but i am concerned that because injectors are all voltage sensitive etc it might be unwise..

but anyway, if anyone has suggestions for 3rd immobilisation point let me know,,
cheers