I just got my new secondary 02 sensor hooked up and the car drives funny now. I can't seem to get it to drive at a constant speed. If I hold the gas pedal in a constant position the car loses rpm's then when I push the gas down it jerks forward.

I may have read in an earlier thread that I need to swap my 02 sensors and this may help. Any ideas?

BTW, with only 1 02 sensor(primary) hooked up this does not happen.

 

I did my B16 swap a few months ago and mine does the exact same thing. I have an A/F ratio gauge hooked to one of my sensors and when it does that at a constant speed the gauge goes to full lean, then when I slightly press the accelerator, the car jerks forward and the gauge goes back to normal. A friend with a B16 swap in his REX does the same thing.

 

OK you only need one o2 sensor by the way.I ve never had a problem w/only one.I have pr3 ecu and no probs.

 

Wait, one? what are you talking about? Fill me in, I thought pr3 required 2. I am useing two, and when I am on the highway and are at a steady speed, my car will sputter a lil bit, then take off, like I floored it, but I didn't do anything. Its like it leans out, then kicks back in every once in a while, really aggrevateing. Wish I knew where to start.

 

Mine too does that but not as much as you're saying...it's like the gas pedal was sensitive but it does not bug down before accelerating....

 

OK amigos. 1st gen B16 ECU needs two O2 sensors and KS if the ECU is not chipped.
THe problems you are all experiencing could be due to 3 possible problems.
1. your o2 sensors are not reading 2 separate cylinders, i.e. 1st O2 sensor should read 1 and 4, other should read 2 and 3.

2. the extra wire for the O2 sensor and KS should be shielded! teh shielding should be grounded to the motor, the way it is with the engine and main wire harness.

3. Your TB at idle is not reading 0.45V.


HTH

 

i say do what i did and get it mugen chipped... my friends run fine without the 2nd o2... i don't know why the cars are running like that..... just get the ecu chipped... it's funner that way

 

I'm still not understand which 02 sensor is which. When I look at the engine from the front of the car I see 4 exhaust manifold runners which mate into two exhaust runners. I assume the cylinder numbers are as follows:

Distributor 4-3-2-1 Crank Pulley

And looking at the exhaust manifold 4 and 3 mate together and 2 and 1 mate together and there is a sensor for each pair.

And right where they mate into 2 there's 2 02 sensors one on the right and one on the left. I don't understand how the primary 02 is for cylinders 1 and 4 and the secondary is for 2 and 1. Shouldn't one be for cylinders 1 and 2 and the other be for 3 and 4?
The way i have it hooked up right now, is the primary 02 sensor is connected to the 2 cylinders closest to the distributor and the secondary is connected to the 2 cylinders closest to the crank pulley.

Also I doubt shielding is the problem since so many of us are seeing this problem and EMF interference is not a constant enough reference to cause a constant problem such as this on more than one car.

I'll check on the TPS sensor reading at idle too.

Thanks for the help.




[Modified by CRX7, 7:37 PM 3/25/2002]

 

Well, the way i did mine was I used the existing o2 plug on my hf to plug into the white plug on the stock SIR manifold. The other plug is green, and that is the one that I ran the wire for. You think maybe switching may help? I guess it couldn't hurt. As for the tps, it definitely makes sense, but I did check that as soon as I installed my new TPS sensor. I might try to move it a lil each way just as a trial-and-error approach. I think it just runs like ****.

 

CRX7, did your car do that before you installed the secondary O2?
I ran mine for awhile with no O2 sensors and it didn't do what we are explaining.
after I had my header welded for two sensors and installed it, I noticed this problem. Could it possibly be a problem with the differences of the MAP system between our cars and the SIR??

Chris

 

That pretty much sums it up. If you are having hesitation problems at constant RPM, chances are the O2 sensors are around the wrong way.

If the car runs fine cold (i.e. open loop mode when the O2 sensors aren't being used) and then only has problems when warm (closed loop) mode, then swap them around. It doesn't cost you anything to try...

I wouldn't recommend using a single O2 sensor for the PR3 ECU since the ECU uses the readings from each O2 sensor to determine the fueling for either cylinders 1-4 or 2-3.

Regards,
David

 

doesn't one o2 sensor go in exhaust manifold and the other go in the back of the cat?

or does one go in top of exhaust manifold and the other at the end?

 

they both go in the top part of the exhaust manifold.. on my xsi motor it does.. if anyone needs the secondary o2 i got one for sale...

 

i have done 2 of these b16a swaps into tegs and used aftermarket header with one o2 sensor and never had any problems one is running a pwo and the other a pr3 no chipping. just my .02

 

CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW TO ADUST TPS(MORE DETAIL PLEASE), WILL THE V-AFC SHOW DIFFERENT READING TO DIGITAL VOLTMETER?? V-AFC SHOWN .3 AND 4.2WOT.

 

EVO....

First you need a digtal volt meter.

use black probe on ground (obviously), and then use the red probe and see what output your getting on the TPS SENSOR.

There are 3 wires. One is green, red, and yelloow. Yellow wire should read 5 volts. red wire is the output reading for your idle. The read wire should read .45 V...
Once you dial in .45v on red, have someone in the car and floor the gas pedal. Digital voltage reading should be 4.5 V (do all testing with key on the "ON" position, not while the car is on)

If you have the idle voltage close to .45 then your WOT voltage reading should be 4.5 V. Once that is dialed in and your having these problems, its more than likely your o2 sensors.

I have this same problem. I have tested and came to the conclusion its the sensors. Since im running HONDATA, im going to program it to run in open loop all the time. and shut down closed loop. That should take care of my problems.

Hope that helps and makes sence.

If you need more info on testing the TPS, let me know.

 

Thanks for the information.
I got V-AFC it also show the reading, can i adjust the TPS by V-AFC instead using Volt Meter??

One more question MY HATCH HAS B16A, AFTER ENGINE WARM UP THEN SWITCH OFF AND IT WON'T START AGAIN, (IT ONLY REV FOR ONLY 1 SEC THEN DIED), IT ONLY HAPPENED WHENEVER THE WEATHER IS HOT, BUT OK WHEN RE-START AFTER 10MINS.
Will a bad TPS sensor lead this problem??


[Modified by evo, 4:02 PM 3/31/2002]

 

Here is the solution to your problem.
Switch the O2 sensor wires.
Move B8 to B16 and viceversa.

It will take care of the problem you are describing.
If you notice, the B16 harness has two different plugs for the O2 sensors.
That is so you don't switch them, the ECU seems to notice when they are switched.

 

so, what youre telling me is if i unplug one of my 02 sensors, i wont get a CEL??

 

I think you would have to splice them. I am going to use the factory SIR man. at first. I let you know how mine works out.

 

flip the wires to the o2 sensors, should solve the problem.

 

I flipped the 02 sensor wires and problem solved no more hesitation. Thanks a lot guys.

Yes it ran fine with the 02 sensors disconnected but it would give me a check engine light, meaning it's running in open loop mode.

With both sensors connected and flipped I get no hesitation and no CEL.




[Modified by CRX7, 6:50 AM 4/3/2002]

 

Yeah the pr3 and pw0 needs two o2 sensors, you can probably trick the ecu to use one, or get it chipped for one or none, but then your mileage gets worse. I lost about 4mpg , i was getting like 26 to the gallon (stock ecu) now i'm only getting 22 (mugen ecu) if that, but i notice the power since i'm using the mugen proggie. So i guess that makes up for the difference.

 

SUMORex...
How to adjust TPS sensor? Adjust by throttle stop screw?

Thanks