It's not the ignitor (just replaced) as that was the case in almost all threads I searched in. What else can it be? I couldn't find any other possibilities in searches other than a loose alternator cable, replacing the whole distributor, and loose connections on the icm... ? Appreciate any advice/help... need this car running for school

Thanks guys
Steven

update as of 2/25/06:

Still the same problems... replaced the whole entire dizzy yesterday, took it for a spin today and the problems are still there... It would appear this crazy bogging situation only happens after the car warms up. The bogging got real bad right before I turned into my neighborhood. In all gears the car would really be bogging and jumpin along with my rpm needle going nuts... appreciate any and all help... really need my car running. thanks ht I did massive searches but this topic isn't exactly that search friendly as far as what people would put in the title etc... only other problems I found was that 2 others mentioned there was a line to their alternator that was loose. So between alternator and possibly ignition coil... those are the only things possible thats left for my problem right?

Update as of 3/3/06:
Checked my ignition coil resistance numbers and the showed they were faulty... replaced ignition coil and problem is still there...

sigh... guys I really need help... what else can it be???

cleaned all grounds... well just the one for the dizzy and battery.

Small update for 3/6/06:
My spark plugs were in due for a change anyway... put some new ones in still same results... was wishful thinking booo.


Modified by SNsLude at 11:12 PM 3/6/2006

 

has it been raining alot lately where your at or washed you engine bay? this like to happen when water gets down in the sparkplug tubes. or the dist. check both to be sure it isnt wet or covered in oil. if the tips of the spark plugs are oily, you could actually have a bad valve seal or two.

 

...... anyone else?

 

As for the rpm, check all your vacuum lines, make sure none are loose. But with vacuum i've never heard of it about to die.

 

I had a similar problem on a different car, and it was a bad ground. I would clean all ground contacts on the engine and chassis, as well as around all of the ignition components. Especially clean around the distributor and any grounds inside of it.

 

I know you said it wasnt the ignitor. but make sure all your contacts on it are good. and all your wires are good. crimp the spade terminals a bit and use dielectric greese.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flipwhip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As for the rpm, check all your vacuum lines, make sure none are loose. But with vacuum i've never heard of it about to die.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this isn't a surging idle. this is just basically my tacho jumpin on its own with no regard to how fast i'm going.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MC_HondaRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a similar problem on a different car, and it was a bad ground. I would clean all ground contacts on the engine and chassis, as well as around all of the ignition components. Especially clean around the distributor and any grounds inside of it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmmm where was your bad ground at? Thanks... i'll prob give this a try, with my luck its prob not this simple though

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kulrevon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know you said it wasnt the ignitor. but make sure all your contacts on it are good. and all your wires are good. crimp the spade terminals a bit and use dielectric greese.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmm yah, originally I thought it was bad contacts on the ICM because it appeared that everything was all n well after I took it for a small testdrive... but it came back as I went on the freeway. I crimped down the terminals pretty good so I don't think it's that

 

Your tach may be bad but it doesn't explain the effect on the engine with running bad and all. How does the coil do on an OHM test? also like the one guy said might be a ground

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skidtron89 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your tach may be bad but it doesn't explain the effect on the engine with running bad and all. How does the coil do on an OHM test? also like the one guy said might be a ground</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not saying the tach explains why my engine is doing that... i was saying the symptoms of my spiratic needle jumps and my engine sputters were basically the same symptoms you would get with a bad ICM.

I'm not quite sure how to do an ohm test... do I use a multimeter for that as well?

yah... i gotta check my grounds...

 

Hey guys, back again... Finally have some time to check the grounds out.

I'm lookin in my helms at all the tons of grounds and their locations on the diagrams provided. Anywho, is each ground per diagram only associated with those sets of harnesses? For example, the diagram for the "right engine compartment wire harness" has one ground in the diagram and the "left engine compartment wire harness" diagram has it's own ground as well.

The ignitor unit is part of just the main engine wire harness... so the only grounds, if faulty, that could effect my ignitor are either the battery grounds or the ground associated with just the main wire harness right? I don't need to check all the other ones?



Modified by SNsLude at 5:34 PM 2/8/2006

 

distributor.

 

If you say your connections are good,you should try another distributor to rule that out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crdcz03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">distributor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i didnt think of it at first but this makes sense...good place to start

 

I think when people say they replaced the distributor and fixes this problem... it's usually just because the ignitor is getting replaced too... unless there's something else inside the dizzy that can cause these problems? I havent read on any other parts in the dizzy aside from the ignitor that people have pointed out to change or pointed out as the cause of the problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crdcz03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">distributor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep. exactly like mine. the tach 'flicks'. it's more apparent when the car's warmer too. unfortunately, it makes the car run very poorly when it starts flicking violently. it flicks a little bit... and randomly a whole lot (and sends off my shift light, and rev cut)...

new distributor.
fixed.

good luck

 

all you guys just saying distributor, did you guys just change that instead of trying to change the ignitor first? I'm waiting for someone to point out other parts of the dizzy that can cause this other than the ignitor... or if someone has changed the ignitor with no fix to the problem and THEN changed the dizzy to finally find it fixed it.

the dizzy is a quite expensive part so i'd rather wait for more info from people on that

 

Try changing the ignitor then and see what happens but If you get a new dizzy, at least you know everything in there is NEW! You wont have to risk the other parts of the dizzy screwing up on you later and the having to guess what it is then.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mayhemdestroy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try changing the ignitor then and see what happens but If you get a new dizzy, at least you know everything in there is NEW! You wont have to risk the other parts of the dizzy screwing up on you later and the having to guess what it is then. </TD></TR></TABLE>

... i did change my ignitor as originally posted What other parts can be screwed up? I have a new cap n rotor already... i don't want to blindly throw such an expensive part at the car.

 

Well, I think you have to check
-if timing belt has slipped 1 step. In fact, you should't touch anything yourself, just check marks correspondence.
-if TDC sensor is O.k.

As it was in your prevois post, in the beginning the MIL came on, and the car didn't rev over 3000. This means the car was in "limp home mode". This usially happens when serious problem is detected.

Try to read error code from the ECU. If MIL doesn't lit, error code can be still stored in the ECU.

After doing TDC sensor test, reset your ECU by disconnecting battery for 15+ seconds.

If MIL comes on, then read error code.

I guess you'd better do some diagnostics before changing something, 'cause its a littie bit expensive.

Here: http://honda.icelord.net/downl...e%204/
you may find quite useful information on your problem.

Good luck, man!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SNsLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all you guys just saying distributor, did you guys just change that instead of trying to change the ignitor first? I'm waiting for someone to point out other parts of the dizzy that can cause this other than the ignitor... or if someone has changed the ignitor with no fix to the problem and THEN changed the dizzy to finally find it fixed it.

the dizzy is a quite expensive part so i'd rather wait for more info from people on that</TD></TR></TABLE>


when i say "distributor." that means "change your distributor"

 

my TDC sensor wasn't even hooked up with this problem occurring, then hooked up later. Without at TDC sensor, my obd0 motor ran VERY VERY rich. the computer, I assume, did this as some sort of precaution to avoid engine damage by default. if yours does something to your ignition, I suppose that could be related.

But I have a full MSD ignition. the distributor is almost 20 years old. So I replaced it from a junkyard. And the flicking stopped, 100%. It would especially get worse as the temperature of the distributor got higher. I know this because my fans are on switches. The fan right before the distributor being off made the flicking happen MUCH faster. I could let the car sit off with the fan off, cool off the distributor, and run the car, so that the tach wouldn't flick for 5 minutes of hard running or so.

Replace the distributor. I promise that's your problem. I'd be VERY surprised to see an ignitor cause this symptom. I've never heard of it, seen it, or anything of that nature. Every time I have, it's been the distributor with obd1, obd2, and obd0 people. That's where your tach gets its signal. That's the problem. Replace it (the distributor).

good luck.

 

Bump for update in first post: (changed dizzy... didn't fix problem)

helpp... i really need to get this car running... what else can there be?


Modified by SNsLude at 11:16 PM 2/25/2006

 

bump for new update... pleasee anyone?

 

maybe a new knock sensor

 

Thanks, but I don't think the ks has any connection with my tachometer problems. Besides, I have changed out my ks not too long ago.