Hello,

This is an unusual question, but here goes. I have a 1975 Volvo 242DL that I am just beginning to restore, and the first thing that needs to be done is to get a new fuel system. Currently the car has a Bosch CIS multi-point system that is totally shot. After sitting for ten years, the mechanical fuel system is obviously in a state of severe disreapir, and I'm not sure I even want to fix it.

Here's a little info about the Volvo, it has a 2.0L non-crossflow pushrod motor rated at a tire smoking 98hp. The car is going to be a daily driver when its done, so I'm looking to do something fuel efficient that can support around 130-140rwhp. Being an ex-Honda guy. what I was looking at doing was pulling off the k-jet non-sense, using a Weber DGV manifold, and fabbing an adapter plate to mount the TBI setup off of a DX motor to the carb manifold.

I was planning on using a programable ECU called MegaSquirt to control the thing, which if you guys haven't checked it out is wonderful. It costs ~$300 assembled, or ~$150 if you are comfortable putting together circuit boards. It is open source code, so it can run anything. They are very big in the Volvo/Saab community, but don't seem very well known for late model cars.

So here's the questions:

Anybody know the measurements of the base plate? Better yet, anybody have one of these things sitting in a box somewhere that you would be willing to part with/donate to the project?

How much fuel can the stock injectors support? This motor is bigger at 2.0L, but its an 8V non-crossflow pushrod motor originally designed for boats and tractors in the 50s so it probably doesn't flow a whole heluva lot more than a DX motor. Is 150 at the crank too much for the stock injectors? Maybe add an FPR?

Any thoughts on what else I need to know?

Thanks in advance, and if anybody has one of these that they don't want I'd much appreciate it.

-Aaron

 

One more thing, what fuel pressure does the Honda system run? Anybody know of an externally mounted fuel pump I can use? The Volvo's CIS pump kicks 65psi, which will obviously not work, but its an old carb style tank where the pump is mounted externally.

 

nobody huh?

 

imo i wouldnt use the dx tb. IT would be kinda like taking a step backwards. i know with 4 240cc injectors on a regular honda max out around 3psi of boost (on a b16a map) the honda usually run 45 psi of fuel pressure. There are many options for out of tank pumps but for your low power goal i would do a walbro 190 (around 90 bucks) and maybe adapt it from a honda pickup.

 

edited.

read the post wrong...good luck!

 

Going from a multipoint setup to a TBI may look like a step backwards, but consider my current fuel system. Bosch CIS isn't EFI, it draws its air through a largish venturi, containing a plate. The air lifts this plate, which in turn lifts a plunger inside of a fuel distributor that meters out fuel to four valves, one in each port, that constantly dribble fuel against the backside of the intake valve, until the whole charge is drawn in through the intake cycle.

It's surprisingly good for what it is, but it has a major restriction with the air metering plate, the fuel atomization is very poor, and the whole thing is fairly tricky to work with. Its sort of like a high pressure carburator exploded all over the engine bay.

Volvo pushrod motors have used Weber DGV carburetor conversions for the past 30 years as sort of the simple, economical, but low output solution for many years with great effect. The manifold easily flows well enough that with high lift roller rockers, a mild cam, a bit of headwork, and a bump in compression, 140-150 hp is easily had with the Weber.

The reason I was looking into the Honda TB rather than the carb is that with programable EFI I can get vastly better gas miliage, likely a bit more power, better drivability, and I can make it pass emissions (not that a 1975 model has to in Texas, but we all live on this Earth so we might as well act like it.) I like using a TBI unit better than a multi-point setup because it is much simpler in wiring and plumbing, will still meet my power goals, is verrry cheap to set up (most people don't even want these things), and it will let me preserve a somewhat period appearance under the hood, as once the filter goes on you can't really tell it's not a carb. The choice is between a Honda TBI, and a Ford TBI (used on a few models of 302 from '79 to '85). The Ford's injectors are definatly big enough, but the Honda unit is much more compact, and potentially having to replace the injectors is not that big of a deal b/c I'm pretty sure if I wait around I can find a Honda T/B for free in somebody's junk pile.

 

man sounds like a lot of work you must love that car. keep up the good work

 

I dig the **** out of this car. Its a first year Volvo 240 coupe with a straight body, solid motor, and such simple construction that you can take just about anything apart with basic hand tools in a few hours. When I work with this car I understand what they mean when they say they don't build em like they used to. This is going to be a total restoration to build the car back into a daily driver.

I've always thought that for the $20K that people spend on a new car, you could by a classic, completly redo it with modern technology and build something unique that is more durable than any new car. When this thing is done, it will have a rebuilt EFI motor, a T5 transmission (Mustang tranny), locker rear end, full leather interior, a modern A/C system, HID headlights, LED tails, etc, etc. Catch the car up on the past 30 years of technology while sticking fairly close to the original style. I want a classic that I can drive crosscountry in at the drop of a hat. Give me three or four years and I should have it

 

i wish i lived in texas so i could check it out. good luck with it