like title says...I've heard several different opinions but I'm leaning towards it being better for top.....but i was wanting a firm answer....anyone?

 

Yeah, I've heard different versions also. I've heard 4-1 is better for top end and 4-2-1 is more for a mid-range power. Whatever your buy, good luck. What header are you looking into?

 

4-1 headers are better for top end I have heard.


personally I have a 4-2-1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Drian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, I've heard different versions also. I've heard 4-1 is better for top end and 4-2-1 is more for a mid-range power.</TD></TR></TABLE>


yeah i heard the same stuff, but the 4 2 1 is just restricting the engine more = less power, 4-1 is just straight threw,so the exhaust gases can line up perfectly(as long as youve elimited your bottlenecks). ya, you might loose some torque, but who cares? youll get all the hp you want, right? .

 

dude 4-1 top end. if u do a search ull find an answer instantly

 

4-1 will give you alot more top end, but you may also want to see where your car sits. 4-1 will sit very close to the ground, depending on what kind. 4-2-1 will hug the pan better. I had a Mugen 4-1 and it gave me great top end. But one day on the way home from work, unexpected pot hole dented two of the runners really bad. So much for a $900 header.

 

The traditional thinking is that 4-1 headers produce gains at higher RPM and 4-2-1 headers generate gains at lower RPM. While there may be some truth to this in general terms, it isn't tremendously accurate.

Some of the best B-series headers are 4-2-1 configurations, but provide greater gains across the <u>entire</u> RPM range than many 4-1 designs. Conversely, a well-designed 4-1 can produce more power than a 4-2-1 depending upon the motor and headers being compared.

The point is that it isn't a simply case of one configuration being better than another. Your best bet is to shop for a header that has proven to be a good performer rather than base your decision solely on the configuration.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondafan62269 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4-1 will give you alot more top end, but you may also want to see where your car sits. 4-1 will sit very close to the ground, depending on what kind. 4-2-1 will hug the pan better. I had a Mugen 4-1 and it gave me great top end. But one day on the way home from work, unexpected pot hole dented two of the runners really bad. So much for a $900 header.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I totally agree w/ this guy, I have a Megan 4-1, and although it's a good header for cheap, I bang it on all sorts of bumps. One or two more surprise potholes and I'm going to be slapping those turbo parts on early.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The traditional thinking is that 4-1 headers produce gains at higher RPM and 4-2-1 headers generate gains at lower RPM. While there may be some truth to this in general terms, it isn't tremendously accurate.

Some of the best B-series headers are 4-2-1 configurations, but provide greater gains across the <u>entire</u> RPM range than many 4-1 designs. Conversely, a well-designed 4-1 can produce more power than a 4-2-1 depending upon the motor and headers being compared.

The point is that it isn't a simply case of one configuration being better than another. Your best bet is to shop for a header that has proven to be a good performer rather than base your decision solely on the configuration. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Great Information. Also, you have to decide where you want the header to reach its peak power, and then choose a header based on that power curve you want.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1337whp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah i heard the same stuff, but the 4 2 1 is just restricting the engine more = less power </TD></TR></TABLE>
this is misleading. a 4-2-1 isn't more "restrictive" than a 4-1, and will still "line up" the exhaust if you look at its configuration.

like padawan said, a 4-2-1 increases powerband through a wider range, and a 4-1 will generally yield higher top end.

 

i just bought a megan racing 4-1 stainless....

 

i'm putting it on a gen 1 obd0....the 4-2-1 that i have now is cracked and i got the megan racing header for free from a friend so it's got a few dents in it already....my car doesn't sit too low but i'll probably still have to watch out over the speed bumps and pot holes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHCta VtAkmn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just bought a megan racing 4-1 stainless....</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's a very nice piece for the price.

 

wow i've learned 2 things out of this....4-1s are a pain in the *** to put in a DA....and you have to modify some of the frame to get it to fit right....what a nightmare I had yesterday

 

i had a dc 4 to 1. now i have a 4 to 2 to 1. the the 4 to 2 to 1 feels better and the engine (a b18b) feels better with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegrasAreBest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had a dc 4 to 1. now i have a 4 to 2 to 1. the the 4 to 2 to 1 feels better and the engine (a b18b) feels better with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have a DC4-1 on right now...that thing sits so freaking low!! its ben bottomed out a lot!!

i do have a dc 4-2-1 in my garage....when ihave time, i will switch em

 

4-1 headers are better for top end

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHCta VtAkmn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow i've learned 2 things out of this....4-1s are a pain in the *** to put in a DA....and you have to modify some of the frame to get it to fit right....what a nightmare I had yesterday</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn dude, how did i modify it???, id like to know, im about to get one

 

this is what i think....

4-1 is for heavy mode engine. and ya for the top end. because light mode engine doesnt make much HP at the high rpm..

so for me i think 4-2-1 is better.

 

in a DA you'll have to unbolt the front and driver side mount and drop the lower beam that hold the lower engine mount just to get the header in the car....which still sucks cause it's a tight squeez....then you'll have to notch the frame/lower beam otherwise it won't bolt up to the engine....I took a small metal cutting saw and notched to places either side of the header and bent it down so it would have room....I'll probably end up cutting that notch out because it's still touching the lip on the beam, and it causes the car to vibrate and i don't want it to dent the header up.....you'll also have to take the radiator and fan out so you'll have room to work....i did

 

just look down at my info, this kid said it all LOL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHCta VtAkmn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in a DA you'll have to unbolt the front and driver side mount and drop the lower beam that hold the lower engine mount just to get the header in the car....which still sucks cause it's a tight squeez....then you'll have to notch the frame/lower beam otherwise it won't bolt up to the engine....I took a small metal cutting saw and notched to places either side of the header and bent it down so it would have room....I'll probably end up cutting that notch out because it's still touching the lip on the beam, and it causes the car to vibrate and i don't want it to dent the header up.....you'll also have to take the radiator and fan out so you'll have room to work....i did</TD></TR></TABLE>

True, but all of that might not be necessary. For my install I just had to remove a metal bracket from the bottom (not 100% sure what it is, but looked more like reinforcement than important), and take out and cut into the ... I forgot the name of it but I'm leaning towards cross member. Either way it's the piece with two traction bars, and if you have access to a lift mine was cut underneath by the same guy installing my exhaust so nothing had to be removed for room to work.

 

what he said yeah.........that lower support i think is called the cross member....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97dC4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i have a DC4-1 on right now...that thing sits so freaking low!! its ben bottomed out a lot!!

i do have a dc 4-2-1 in my garage....when ihave time, i will switch em </TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL thats the reason the 4-2-1 is on now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegrasAreBest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL thats the reason the 4-2-1 is on now. </TD></TR></TABLE>

and the reason I recommend 4-2-1 for g2 integras from here on out. that clearance is way lower than the rest of the frame.