Has anyone ever removed the rear trans. mount? Does the front crossmember have to be detatched to remove the rear bolt holding the trans. mount? Yikes!

 

Get yourself a wobble joint and a deep socket.

Put the wobble joint on the end of the deep socket, and then you need about a 2' extension....or several small extensions attached to eachother.

Stick your hand down on the deep socket and guide it into position between the rear mount and firewall.

When it's in place, put your ratchet on and get that bad boy out of there.

Sure beats having to drop the rear crossmember like I've seen some people recommend.

 

Thank You very much, I was reinforcing my mounts with polyurethane and I really appreciate your support.

 

http://www.premiertools.co.uk/item1870.htm

This is what I'm talking about. I call them wobble joints...some people call them U-Joints. I guess a U-Joint is actually more correct.

I just wanted to show you what exactly I meant.

You can buy them at any auto parts store or too house for just a few bucks.

 

While on the same topic I was curious to know if I was lowering the crossmember what is involved? Im sure I can jack the engine and tranny to hold the weight, but does the suspension need to be disassambled? If so, what exactly? I was hoping I didnt have to compress the coils.

 

I've never had to drop it, so I don't know.

If I remember correctly from reading around here on h-t you have to loosen a few (I believe) 19mm bolts.

 

Yeah Ive seen the 19mm's, and Ive tried using a wobble adapter to no avail. Maybe I gave up to soon, I was hoping that I would lower the xmember a little to give me a bit more room to work, but I am grateful for your input.

 

the flat rate way to do it is to give the mount a good whack on the side so it pivots at the bolt. this should give you enough room to fit most sockets, wrenches etc if you dont have a u-joint or wobble extensions or what have you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonfedcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the flat rate way to do it is to give the mount a good whack on the side so it pivots at the bolt. this should give you enough room to fit most sockets, wrenches etc if you dont have a u-joint or wobble extensions or what have you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What?

Wouldn't that destroy the mount?

 

Don't drop the crossmember. It's not necessary. Just have some patience and get a smaller dimension socket and shove it down there. It's not that difficult dude.

 

I've personally taken off my EF rear tranny mount bracket 3 times to get my ******* auto to manual swap to fit. It's a pain in the ***, having nothing in the way such as fuel filter/wiring helps out a great deal, grab 2 extension, a universal joint and a socket and give her! Keep on trying, once the socket is on, press down hard and turn, it WILL break free by hand. I'm not a big guy and I cracked mine free with ease and without a universal join for ratchets.