93 lx f22a1 186k

basically ive had trouble with my car shaking REALLLY BAD at idle when it is cold, or cooler outside/engine temp.

at first i thought it was just the rear mount (it does need replacing) but once the car warms up it doesnt do it anymore (aside from what the mount causes)

this is driving me nuts, it happens really bad anywhere from idle to 2500 rpms. makes it really hard to take off from a stop, feels like bad wheel hop.

if im cruising down the road and im at 2000 rpms and touch the gas, the car violently shakes.

could a bad valve adjustment cause this (i adjusted my valves recently, my first time doing it)

the mount? even tho it doesnt do this when the car is warmed up.

FITV/IACV ? - ive cleaned the IACV and ive adjusted the FITV

i also have an exhaust leak...somehwere, dunno where its coming from.

im trying to sell the car and would like to fix this first.

 

Improperly adjusted valves coupled with a bad mount could absolutely cause the problem you describe. You might want to have another crack at it. Make sure the engine is cold when you start. Then again, sometimes engines with weak compression on a particular cylinder have a very weak fire that is exaggerated when cold and comes across as a miss also exaggerated by the bad mount. Was it doing it before your valve adjustment?

 

i honestly cant remember if it was doing it before the adjustment. i dont remember it doing it before.

thats why im redoing it today.

the engine was cold when i did it the first time, and will be this time. i got the helms page.

i couldnt really see the TDC marks when i did it very well because i couldnt get the upper timing belt cover off.

there is this black bar that connects to the driver side mount that was blocking it. If i remove that black bar will that mount be weakend?

 

Remove the rubber plug on the left side of the exhaust manifold and use the timing marks to help determine TDC. I also like to remove the sparkplugs and drop a long wooden dowel onto the piston.

 

im not sure which rubber plug you are talking about.

i know how to look at the rotor and tell where its pointing.

a picture of this would be handy

 

On the left side of the exhaust manifold, as you are facing your car from the front, and just above the starter, there is a black plug with a finger grip on it . Pull it out and you will see your flywheel and a v-notched metal tab that serves as your timing scale. This is where you point the timing light when setting the timing. Your flywheel will have three narrowly spaced lines at TDC compression and a single line 180 degrees off. Some flywheels had dots but they are always in multiples, whether dots or lines, at TDC compression. This plus the dowel in the #1 cylinder plus the fact that you can see the cam lobes will show you TDC without a doubt. Also, it is better to be a little loose than a little tight when it comes to adjusting valves. It's best to get it right , but if you can't get it exact, it's better to err on the loose side. If you still don't see it after you look, let me know and I'll see if I can post a picture when I get home from work.

 

SOmetimes the rubber plug is gone on older cars.It will just be a small rectangular hole down on the transmission near the manifold like amkee said.

 

nice description. thanks man

 

my 94 eg had a bad idle I fixed it with sea foam found at local auto parts it's a miricle in a can for high mile cars did not put in gas or oil like directions only vaccum worked great

 

i used seafoam for 1 treatmant already, im gonna run another one before i take the car home thursday for the adjustment.

i might have a buyer offered 3k for my 93 lx with 186k miles on it so i hope this fixes it

 

There isn't a miracle in a can. It's for the same type of mechanic that would use fix-a-flat in a tire or Stop-Leak in a radiator. It breaks down the lubricity of the oil in the top end and turns the carbon into a rubbing compound. Then it coats your O2 sensor and catalytic convertor with the carbon seafoam mix on it's way out. High mileage engines are more at risk to adverse effects. It's the type of thing that you would do to an old V-8 in a last ditch effort to unstick a lifter or rings to keep from having to rebuild immediately.


Modified by amckee at 5:13 AM 2/1/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There isn't a miracle in a can. It's for the same type of mechanic that would use fix-a-flat in a tire or Stop-Leak in a radiator. It breaks down the lubricity of the oil in the top end and turns the carbon into a rubbing compound. Then it coats your O2 sensor and catalytic convertor with the carbon seafoam mix on it's way out. High mileage engines are more at risk to adverse effects. It's the type of thing that you would do to an old V-8 in a last ditch effort to unstick a valve or rings to keep from having to rebuild immediately.</TD></TR></TABLE>

People praise to Seafoam, seems to be the problem fixer now days. engine has bent valve, just add a can of seafoam and that should fix the problem.

 

please dont be confused by what i said in my last post.

im not hoping seafoam will fix this. im hoping the valve adjustment will

i can see how my last post sounds like i was hoping seafoam would fix it, but thats not the solution here.

i believe the solution is a good valve adjusment and a new rear motor mount.