What are the torque specs on the head of a d16y8. Im currently changing my headgasket.

 

bump need head bolt torque specs

 

Dont reuse head bolts, they have a habbit of stretching when there reused. Get some ARPs.

If you must use them torque them down to 70lbs with some kind of moly lube.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont reuse head bolts, they have a habbit of stretching when there reused. Get some ARPs.

If you must use them torque them down to 70lbs with some kind of moly lube. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh man I wish you of said that earlier. They were torqued down to 49lbs and I resused the stock ones

 

So I should take off the valve cover and torque them down again? or is it okay to leave it I havent driven the car yet.

 

<FONT SIZE="5">DO NOT DRIVE YOUR CAR WITH YOUR HEAD TORQUED TO 49FT-LBS!!!!</FONT>

Seriously dont. Either retorque them or get some ARPs.

Also make sure you torque them in a sequence (sp?)

9 5 1 3 7
8 4 2 6 10

Starting with 20lbs then 40lbs then your final torque.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><FONT SIZE="5">DO NOT DRIVE YOUR CAR WITH YOUR HEAD TORQUED TO 49FT-LBS!!!!</FONT>

Seriously dont. Either retorque them or get some ARPs.

Also make sure you torque them in a sequence (sp?)

9 5 1 3 7
8 4 2 6 10

Starting with 20lbs then 40lbs then your final torque.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Well I havent driven it yet but I did start it up for a few seconds then turned it off to see if it would start. Is that going to affect it in any way

 

If i was you i would pull the head and clean down the headgasket. Better safe then sorry.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If i was you i would pull the head and clean down the headgasket. Better safe then sorry. </TD></TR></TABLE>

And clean it and respary it with copper?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkAnK_aSS_bRyAn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

And clean it and respary it with copper? </TD></TR></TABLE>

WEll since its all together you can tighten it to spec, tryit out and see how it goes.. If it doesnt work you will have to get new gasket. If you only started it and didnt drive it you should be fine, just tighten it down and see how it goes..

 

where did you get 70lbs from? because im seeing this in another post..

https://honda-tech.com/forums/engine-machining-assembly-164/d16y8-head-stud-torque-sequence-2682764/

it says torque to 49lbs like he did... im just throwing this out there.. im changing my head gasket also.

 

Ok I have new head bolts I torque them to 49lbs?

 

Wow, I'm astounded at the variation on this! I just got a head resurfaced for my 2000 Civic EX (D16Y8) and went torque down my new gasket and new head bolts. My Chilton manual for 1996-2000 Civics states in the text to use a 2 step procedure: first to 22 ft-lbs, then to 61 ft-lbs, A table of torque specs later in the book says the same. But the diagram that goes along with the text says 72 ft-lbs! This discrepancy led me to look online, where most information I find gives a 3 or 4 step process that stops at 49 ft-lbs. That is quite a wide range: 49 to 72! This is about the only thread I can find anywhere that questions the 49 ft-lbs, but doesn't specify what it should be.

Is there some way to settle this? I normally would go with the book, not the internet, but when my book gives me two different answers, well WFT?

Thanks!

 

The proper answer is to consult the factory Helm's manual... a Chilton manual is NOT the factory specs and there are errors in their discovery and printing. I can verify the spec for you on Tuesday when I stop by my Tuners shop if that helps... I am confident that it isn't 61 or 72 ft/lbs. The real answer is closer to 49 ft/lbs if you are using STOCK head bolts. Aftermarket head studs will have a higher torque value and this is where you may be getting confused from your online searching.

 

That would be great! My bolts are basic replacements bought off the internet. Not ARP. I've already lightly oiled them and set them in place before I realized my book had contradictory numbers. And for the sake of others: if torques vary by bolt type or other reasons, it would be nice to get them all clarified here.
Thanks JRCivic1!