what motor for 90 crx si??
I've had a a lot of people tell me their opinnion on what motor I should use... what do you think? Im more of the quarter mile guy for this car....
what motor should i pick.. whats the best for the best price?
what motor should i pick.. whats the best for the best price?
stock d16a6 motor,homemade turbokit and turboedit ecu,,posibly make + 200whp..Maybe even do a turbo mini-me setup..That would be the best for the price..
Best bang for the buck?
GSR swap with some minor work. Always leaves room for more, always a fashionable thing to do...also a good price. Around here a complete swap sells for 3500$ installed I beleive, with engine/tranny warranties.
GSR swap with some minor work. Always leaves room for more, always a fashionable thing to do...also a good price. Around here a complete swap sells for 3500$ installed I beleive, with engine/tranny warranties.
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GSR's are overpriced, and hyped up.
Do not jump on the bandwagon and buy a GSR just because it's a GSR.
The B16 on 8lbs would kill a D series on 10 or 12, built or not. A B16 on 8lbs would also kill a GSR with bolt ons. Dunno what it'd do to a H22 or K20 but I bet it would keep up or win.
To support my claim, here is a video of my car (STOCK b16) versus a boosted D16Z6 hatch. He was running 10lbs tuned with Uberdata, don't know why the AFC is in there but I know who it was that tuned it.
http://media.putfile.com/danvsjim
First run was on the highway and I could have went down one more gear, was the worst of a few runs we had on the highway. The run from the stop was just before it overheated and then blew up.
Do not jump on the bandwagon and buy a GSR just because it's a GSR.
The B16 on 8lbs would kill a D series on 10 or 12, built or not. A B16 on 8lbs would also kill a GSR with bolt ons. Dunno what it'd do to a H22 or K20 but I bet it would keep up or win.
To support my claim, here is a video of my car (STOCK b16) versus a boosted D16Z6 hatch. He was running 10lbs tuned with Uberdata, don't know why the AFC is in there but I know who it was that tuned it.
http://media.putfile.com/danvsjim
First run was on the highway and I could have went down one more gear, was the worst of a few runs we had on the highway. The run from the stop was just before it overheated and then blew up.
You should consider things like -how long you plan on having the car and what might be done to the car already.
Is it street driven daily -every day- or just whenever you feel like it.
The H Series doesn't leave a whole lot of room for standard upgrades. There is some room, but not a lot. However it does feel like an awesome swap to drive around daily (I've had one). Now HASport just released their kit -it will make the swap a whole lot cleaner and easier!
The K Series is expensive, but leaves a lot of room for more power and add-on for the future when you get tired of whatever it is you decide to do (about 1 year down the road).
The GSR is a good swap and a noticeable different for the dollars vs. a B16A -but does require a lot more work. You could probably throw a OBD0 B16A on, and spend the extra money saved on some additional parts, and it be faster than the GSR -but you are leaving yourself less and less room for future upgrades. If you plan on having the car for another 5 years, if you throw in a B16A, throw on some bolt-ons or small turbo -1-2 years you probably will be looking for more and more $$$ to throw at it -but what are your options now.
DTurbo -fun for about 1 year. Built or unbuilt. Most of our customers that have their DTurbo for about 1-2 years regret it, look for the B Series swap of some sort then part out their turbo kit to the next guy asking what you have just above.
Good luck. If you do decide a B or K swap -we'll be happy to help in being your source for parts.
Is it street driven daily -every day- or just whenever you feel like it.
The H Series doesn't leave a whole lot of room for standard upgrades. There is some room, but not a lot. However it does feel like an awesome swap to drive around daily (I've had one). Now HASport just released their kit -it will make the swap a whole lot cleaner and easier!
The K Series is expensive, but leaves a lot of room for more power and add-on for the future when you get tired of whatever it is you decide to do (about 1 year down the road).
The GSR is a good swap and a noticeable different for the dollars vs. a B16A -but does require a lot more work. You could probably throw a OBD0 B16A on, and spend the extra money saved on some additional parts, and it be faster than the GSR -but you are leaving yourself less and less room for future upgrades. If you plan on having the car for another 5 years, if you throw in a B16A, throw on some bolt-ons or small turbo -1-2 years you probably will be looking for more and more $$$ to throw at it -but what are your options now.
DTurbo -fun for about 1 year. Built or unbuilt. Most of our customers that have their DTurbo for about 1-2 years regret it, look for the B Series swap of some sort then part out their turbo kit to the next guy asking what you have just above.
Good luck. If you do decide a B or K swap -we'll be happy to help in being your source for parts.
H series..pretty much worthless imo.
A type r will beat it..not worth the hassle to put it I think.
And a boosted built d will beat a b16 on 6 lbs. Gotta have it done right, and tuned right though.
My vote goes for..boosted d, or gsr. Well of course it would go to k series first but I don't think thats pheasable for you lol.
A type r will beat it..not worth the hassle to put it I think.
And a boosted built d will beat a b16 on 6 lbs. Gotta have it done right, and tuned right though.
My vote goes for..boosted d, or gsr. Well of course it would go to k series first but I don't think thats pheasable for you lol.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by swifty4u »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">H series..pretty much worthless imo.
A type r will beat it..not worth the hassle to put it I think.
And a boosted built d will beat a b16 on 6 lbs. Gotta have it done right, and tuned right though.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not sure what you're saying about a boosted D versus a B16 but this guy is looking to boost a B16 at 8lbs and a D on 10lbs both on the street, both set up "correctly" and tuned "correctly" as you say, the B16 will beat the D every time unless you've poured a ton of money into the D to run just 10lbs and made it capable of revving to 9k to spin a huge turbo.
I also disagree that a GSR is worth $1500 more than a B16. I wouldn't want to pay that money and do all the extra work just to get a few more hp and tq. I don't see where this magical added potential comes in, because there will come a time when you must also build the GSR, and that means sleeving, pistons, etc etc etc. If you sleeve a B16 as well you can bore it out and change the displacement...suddenly you don't have the disadvantage of less displacement anymore.
Infact you could spend the $1500 you saved on sleeves and have money left over to put towards pistons and rods.
That's just my view of it though, to each their own.
A type r will beat it..not worth the hassle to put it I think.
And a boosted built d will beat a b16 on 6 lbs. Gotta have it done right, and tuned right though.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not sure what you're saying about a boosted D versus a B16 but this guy is looking to boost a B16 at 8lbs and a D on 10lbs both on the street, both set up "correctly" and tuned "correctly" as you say, the B16 will beat the D every time unless you've poured a ton of money into the D to run just 10lbs and made it capable of revving to 9k to spin a huge turbo.
I also disagree that a GSR is worth $1500 more than a B16. I wouldn't want to pay that money and do all the extra work just to get a few more hp and tq. I don't see where this magical added potential comes in, because there will come a time when you must also build the GSR, and that means sleeving, pistons, etc etc etc. If you sleeve a B16 as well you can bore it out and change the displacement...suddenly you don't have the disadvantage of less displacement anymore.
Infact you could spend the $1500 you saved on sleeves and have money left over to put towards pistons and rods.
That's just my view of it though, to each their own.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BRIJPURT13B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B18a swap wit tubro set-up..Nuttin rong wit boost d16a6 thow,,but u gonna get ti-erd of it..</TD></TR></TABLE>
DAMN HE'S DUMBING DOWN THREADS ALL OVER THE PLACE!!



DAMN HE'S DUMBING DOWN THREADS ALL OVER THE PLACE!!




<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.speaker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock d16a6 motor,homemade turbokit and turboedit ecu,,posibly make + 200whp..Maybe even do a turbo mini-me setup..That would be the best for the price..</TD></TR></TABLE>I have to agree to everything Mr. speaker has to say and most of all the last sentence.
There are a few guys running around with d series engines, pretty much stock, making well over 200 hp.
There are a few guys running around with d series engines, pretty much stock, making well over 200 hp.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by N1ghtM0nkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not sure what you're saying about a boosted D versus a B16 but this guy is looking to boost a B16 at 8lbs and a D on 10lbs both on the street, both set up "correctly" and tuned "correctly" as you say, the B16 will beat the D every time unless you've poured a ton of money into the D to run just 10lbs and made it capable of revving to 9k to spin a huge turbo. </TD></TR></TABLE>
My bad, I forgot about the 10 lbs part. But if hes building a d series it can run wayy more then 10 lbs.
My bad, I forgot about the 10 lbs part. But if hes building a d series it can run wayy more then 10 lbs.
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