Well I couldnt find a forum for body ext just welding and fabrication....so I thought I post here and mod can send it to right spot if he likes....I bought a Wings West RS series off a guy for 450 bucks...question is how would I go about installing the kit is there any write ups on this...cause I know everyone says this is one the easiest kits to install...I want it to look clean and whats a average shop price to install the kit???...my friends can do the body work like shaving and blending it in...I just dont trust them fitting it perfect if it is going to be hard....and this is for a 90 honda crx si...let me know people thanks...sorry for dumb questions lately car was stolen and trying make it look nice again...garage kept now so I dont worry as much only when I got to mall...thanks in advance

 

Ya I was told not to use the tape thats on it and to use metal screws or watever...but no one recommends on molding it all?A right up be nice if anyone has one tried to search but no luck

 

i had the polyurethane version of the kit and used the tape that was on there with no problems. the only extra thing i did was use some calking to seal it around the edges. i guess its more like using plastic weld to keep it attached to the car.

 

well all wings west kits are polyurethane...where did you apply the calking at, cause the tape is around the edges...also was it hard to put on...and do you recommend putting kit on before or after paint...I getting to many mixed words and want to clear it all up...I know if I mold it of course I have to put it on first but what if I dont mold the kit on, should I paint it off the car?

 

I would mount the kit, line everything up, then take it off, paint, and put it back on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BRIJPURT13B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heer is sugeston..wit da door caps dont use doble side tape that wingwest says..use pop rivets..

jus tak off old bumpers an put new 1s on an tak it frum ther..alot of the reel wingwest yourathane kit hav good fitment 2 begin wit..just need sum hole drilled 4 screws and sum miner trimin..an iwood not mold in the kit..may-bee da bac bumper but not da sid skirt and frunt bumpr,,becuz on low car frum bottoming out they will crak..</TD></TR></TABLE>

You really are using your own picture as an avatar aren't you?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BRIJPURT13B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heer is sugeston..wit da door caps dont use doble side tape that wingwest says..use pop rivets..

jus tak off old bumpers an put new 1s on an tak it frum ther..alot of the reel wingwest yourathane kit hav good fitment 2 begin wit..just need sum hole drilled 4 screws and sum miner trimin..an iwood not mold in the kit..may-bee da bac bumper but not da sid skirt and frunt bumpr,,becuz on low car frum bottoming out they will crak..</TD></TR></TABLE>
WTF did you just say?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
WTF did you just say? </TD></TR></TABLE>

+1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WTF did you just say? </TD></TR></TABLE>

+2

It's hard enough to get people help without a language barrier. There is a SPELLCHECK option on the top of every reply form.

I have to keep saying this. Check the first quote in my sig. "Hood Talk" has no place here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kurinto &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would mount the kit, line everything up, then take it off, paint, and put it back on. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ditto.

and some kits came in fiberglass ( which is the only material you can mold with and have it not crack on you if done correctly )

 

and when using the tape make sure its the 3m grade. also be sure the area where the tape is going is really clean or else it will peal after a while.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

+1</TD></TR></TABLE> LOL look at all the posts BRIJPURT13B has made.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kageon1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> LOL look at all the posts BRIJPURT13B has made.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well it kinda seems like he knows what hes talking about... a little... just he needs to put it out in an actual coherent way.

 

Ya I had to read enough post by BRI already so I am use to his ebonics by now...

Yes I was kinda worried though just using 3m tape...do I stick the 3m tape parts on before I sand it of stick it to the paint that is on the car now and work around it?...also any other ideas painting the kit off the car or on the car?

 

I have the same kit on my car. Mount the front and rear bimbers just like the factory ones. For the side skirts use two screws in the fender wells and under the car car, as for the top edges and door caps use 3M Panel Bonding Adhesive #8115 you get at a paint supply store.

 

what about the door caps?...I want get much info as I can from some you have done this successful...I dont want to be crying when side skirt falls of or a door cap....also where would I be putting that glu at on it..next to 3m tape?

 

 

I have the WW sides and rear on my car. The bodyshop I took it to used the 3m tape that came with the kit, screwed it on from inside the door, and used some sort of polyurethane sealer to smooth everything out. Both sides (including doors) of the car were painted prior to installing the door caps and skirts, then repainted again. Here are some pics of my car...





Btw, don't mold fiberglass to metal, it will just crack. Mine has never cracked and it's been like that for 4 years. Anyway, good luck with the project.

 

^ thats a beautiful machine my friend.

 

wow...

[b]BEAUTIFUL...

 

very nice, I'd cover up those plates though.

 

Whatever you do .... DO NOT screw in the DOOR CAPS! Use tape only for the door caps. Urethane will flex and expand in the heat and you will have ripples down your door.

I 100% guarantee it.

Beautiful car above!! WOW!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by azulito &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whatever you do .... DO NOT screw in the DOOR CAPS! Use tape only for the door caps. Urethane will flex and expand in the heat and you will have ripples down your door.

I 100% guarantee it.

Beautiful car above!! WOW!</TD></TR></TABLE>

hum.. well while I was searching i found a lot of guys saying that they "drilled from the inside of door through the door CAP with long screw, then grinding the end off, then used filler to make the hole smooth.

why would there be ripples?

 

the metal and poly expand at different rates / ratios.... if you use the tape it can flex... if you use the screws.. it cant..

that being said i screwed my wings west body kit on...

i didnt put the door panels on though..
i pulled the carpet back.... and used seom small sheet metal screws and attatched it from teh back side.... along the seat.. between teh door sil and the seat i drilled a few 3/4 inch holes in the first layer so i could get below teh door sil...
then attatched a few short sheet metal screws to help the tape out...

The tape works.. but it rains alot here in Washington... and even the 3M stuff doesnt like the rain...

I'm gonna try and find some of that 3M Panel Bonding Adhesive #8115 stuff...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hum.. well while I was searching i found a lot of guys saying that they "drilled from the inside of door through the door CAP with long screw, then grinding the end off, then used filler to make the hole smooth.

why would there be ripples? </TD></TR></TABLE>

u shouldn't drill all the way through the door cap. using filler to smooth out holes in the poly will eventually show in the paint when the poly starts expanding and compressing. just use screws to mount the door cap and help the 3m tape do its job.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by psycho.chicken &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The tape works.. but it rains alot here in Washington... and even the 3M stuff doesnt like the rain...</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is why the body shop decided to use sealer on my sides skirts and door caps. BTW, Thanx for all the comments guys!