how to for engine swap
where can I find a tutorial for an engine swap (best for d16 but any will do).....
whats comes in my mind is:
disconnect everything you see in your current engine, remove axles, jack up the engine with a lift after removing the mounts, and swap ?
whats comes in my mind is:
disconnect everything you see in your current engine, remove axles, jack up the engine with a lift after removing the mounts, and swap ?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pakipr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so before taking the axles out, I must drain the tranny fuild, radiator coolant, and motor oil </TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't have to do the motor oil. It's actually better to do that when the engine is out of the car.
You don't have to do the motor oil. It's actually better to do that when the engine is out of the car.
did everybody forget about the PIAA shift linkage pin?? If your removing the engine (and transmission) you need to remove the shiftlinkage- the stabilizer bar is easy to remove from the transmission, but the shiftlinkage is more difficult- You have to remove a lil pin- I think you need a 8mm punch... Any punch thats too small will expand the pin, and make it more difficult to remove, and a punch thats too big, simply wont help at all...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by naptownrex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did everybody forget about the PIAA shift linkage pin?? If your removing the engine (and transmission) you need to remove the shiftlinkage- the stabilizer bar is easy to remove from the transmission, but the shiftlinkage is more difficult- You have to remove a lil pin- I think you need a 8mm punch... Any punch thats too small will expand the pin, and make it more difficult to remove, and a punch thats too big, simply wont help at all...</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, if you dont have the punch, use one of the bolts off the air conditioner compressor, the long ones. those are perfect.
yeah, if you dont have the punch, use one of the bolts off the air conditioner compressor, the long ones. those are perfect.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by naptownrex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did everybody forget about the PIAA shift linkage pin?? If your removing the engine (and transmission) you need to remove the shiftlinkage- the stabilizer bar is easy to remove from the transmission, but the shiftlinkage is more difficult- You have to remove a lil pin- I think you need a 8mm punch... Any punch thats too small will expand the pin, and make it more difficult to remove, and a punch thats too big, simply wont help at all...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nah, I just unbolt it from the shifter and take it out with the transmission. It is ALOT easier to take the linkage off when the motor is out of the car. I have not done a swap yet where I took the linkage off the tranny while it is still in the car. makes things go alot faster my way.
Nah, I just unbolt it from the shifter and take it out with the transmission. It is ALOT easier to take the linkage off when the motor is out of the car. I have not done a swap yet where I took the linkage off the tranny while it is still in the car. makes things go alot faster my way.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 31flavorscivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nah, I just unbolt it from the shifter and take it out with the transmission. It is ALOT easier to take the linkage off when the motor is out of the car. I have not done a swap yet where I took the linkage off the tranny while it is still in the car. makes things go alot faster my way. </TD></TR></TABLE>
you take the trans off first to pull the motor?
i usually pull the trans and engine together, way less work
you take the trans off first to pull the motor?
i usually pull the trans and engine together, way less work
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gold EF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you take the trans off first to pull the motor?
i usually pull the trans and engine together, way less work</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe I mis-stated that. I meant to say while still connected to the transmission. Engine and tranny are coming out as one, but the linkage is still connected to the whole thing.
i usually pull the trans and engine together, way less work</TD></TR></TABLE>Maybe I mis-stated that. I meant to say while still connected to the transmission. Engine and tranny are coming out as one, but the linkage is still connected to the whole thing.
you must drop it thru the bottom, cause my cherry picker dont go that high : P
your down there to undo the exhaust anyway, only takes 5 seconds to undo the shift linkage
your down there to undo the exhaust anyway, only takes 5 seconds to undo the shift linkage
In my Crx the Exhaust and the Shift linkage are so tight underneath i would have to take My exhaust off to leave my shift linkage. It's easier just to get a small Standard screwdriver...and with the Flat end up against the Wall of the pin push up in small taps....Works everytime....(cliche answer) Then support the motor....Loosen the MM.....Pull the motor up and swing it out with the Tranny coming out last...and VIOLA....No mas motor...Make sure you watch for those tie rods and Steering components....Also.....Have fun with Honda's Rear Motor Mounts.
One more thing to remember.....: Every bolt has a torque spec for a reason use/follow wisely....That extra time spent running over everything will save you MAJOR TIME/MONEY.
One more thing to remember.....: Every bolt has a torque spec for a reason use/follow wisely....That extra time spent running over everything will save you MAJOR TIME/MONEY.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gold EF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you must drop it thru the bottom, cause my cherry picker dont go that high : P
your down there to undo the exhaust anyway, only takes 5 seconds to undo the shift linkage</TD></TR></TABLE>
It' doesn't need to go any higher than normal, because of the physics of the linkage you can more or less maneuver it where it needs to go as the engine is coming out the top of the car. I sometimes have a problem of it trying to hit my jackstands on the way out, but if I plan ahead I can position those so it wont happen.
your down there to undo the exhaust anyway, only takes 5 seconds to undo the shift linkage</TD></TR></TABLE>
It' doesn't need to go any higher than normal, because of the physics of the linkage you can more or less maneuver it where it needs to go as the engine is coming out the top of the car. I sometimes have a problem of it trying to hit my jackstands on the way out, but if I plan ahead I can position those so it wont happen.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 31flavorscivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It' doesn't need to go any higher than normal, because of the physics of the linkage you can more or less maneuver it where it needs to go as the engine is coming out the top of the car. I sometimes have a problem of it trying to hit my jackstands on the way out, but if I plan ahead I can position those so it wont happen.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ahh, i didnt know that, good to know
ahh, i didnt know that, good to know
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blkonblkhatch
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Mar 8, 2006 07:15 AM




