Should VTEC engage earlier?
I tried searching on this and didn't find anything helpful. .. but here's the deal.
I read somewhere on here once that my d16y8 stops making power at 6500 rpm.
I don't know where i read this and i don't even know if it's true and flame me for being dumb if you want. But the car redlines at 7 and i beleive my VTEC kicks in at about 5500 or so. So becuse of the engine ceasing to make power at 6500 that leaves 500 rpm of what seems to me as wasted VTEC. So would it be resonable based on this info to have VTEC kick in at 5000 instead of 5500 or whatever it is?
Correct me if im being wrong or just stupid about this but if this is reasonable should i just purchase some kind of VTEC controller and set it to kick in 500rpm's earlier?
I read somewhere on here once that my d16y8 stops making power at 6500 rpm.
I don't know where i read this and i don't even know if it's true and flame me for being dumb if you want. But the car redlines at 7 and i beleive my VTEC kicks in at about 5500 or so. So becuse of the engine ceasing to make power at 6500 that leaves 500 rpm of what seems to me as wasted VTEC. So would it be resonable based on this info to have VTEC kick in at 5000 instead of 5500 or whatever it is?
Correct me if im being wrong or just stupid about this but if this is reasonable should i just purchase some kind of VTEC controller and set it to kick in 500rpm's earlier?
The vtec on your d series is weak and some would say the vtec isnt "real" compared to the vtec on the b series. Depending on your mods i wouldnt do it. I am basing this on your knowledge of the d series from this post. YOure probably thinking about buying a vtec controller, dont do it. Use your money on other mods to go faster and then later on down the road change the vtec points
I guess it probably is too early for me to be thinking about a VTEC controller, i just had an idea about getting the most power out of my dblock as i could and i went with it lol. Can't afford a B18C swap right now though so but anyway thanks for slaping me and putting me on the right path.
currently my engine is completely stock right now except for i have a short ram intake on there. I plan on purchasing some headers and getting an exhaust installed and i don't know what i should do after that. . i just wanna make sure that whatever i do my car will still pass emmissions testing. Does anyone have an opinion on what i should do to the engine after header and exhaust. Upgrade ignition maybe?
currently my engine is completely stock right now except for i have a short ram intake on there. I plan on purchasing some headers and getting an exhaust installed and i don't know what i should do after that. . i just wanna make sure that whatever i do my car will still pass emmissions testing. Does anyone have an opinion on what i should do to the engine after header and exhaust. Upgrade ignition maybe?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1AB_DOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the y8 red lines at 68 the vtech kicks at 55 you can chip ur computer, vtech controller, i have a venom box it drops my vtech to like 44..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why so low?
Why so low?
on a stock engine - leave the vtec engagement points alone. Honda engineers are Honda engineers for a reason, you aren't.
If you build the hell out of the y8, have it dyno tuned twice. Once with vtec engaged at a low rpm, once with vtec engaging near redline. The point where the power is equal (aka the power lines cross; as an example, say the lines cross at 5800 rpm) is where vtec should be set.
If you build the hell out of the y8, have it dyno tuned twice. Once with vtec engaged at a low rpm, once with vtec engaging near redline. The point where the power is equal (aka the power lines cross; as an example, say the lines cross at 5800 rpm) is where vtec should be set.
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readin this got me thinking if i should change my engagement point. i have a y8 and plan on buyin a new head with titanium spings, stage 2 cam, cam gear, ported and polished, new tb, and as for the bottom end new pistons. i also have obd1 p28. ok with that said should i buy a vtec controller or jus mess around with it through the ecu? if i even can?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2000EM1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on a stock engine - leave the vtec engagement points alone. Honda engineers are Honda engineers for a reason, you aren't.
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exactly. thats all you gotta say when people start doin silly things
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exactly. thats all you gotta say when people start doin silly things
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1AB_DOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the y8 red lines at 68 the vtech kicks at 55 you can chip ur computer, vtech controller, i have a venom box it drops my vtech to like 44..</TD></TR></TABLE>
You'd think that someone with a DOHC-anything would be able to read his own valve cover and realize that VTEC is an acronym, not "VEEE-technology!" or whatever the holy expletive you think "vtech" is supposed to stand for.
Also, the Venom box is a piece of **** and you shouldn't put it on any car ever.
You'd think that someone with a DOHC-anything would be able to read his own valve cover and realize that VTEC is an acronym, not "VEEE-technology!" or whatever the holy expletive you think "vtech" is supposed to stand for.
Also, the Venom box is a piece of **** and you shouldn't put it on any car ever.
I have a ZC block with a Vtec head. And I was playing around with vtec. I just have intake and exhaust, and I've had vtec at 4500 and then up to 5200. And now I have it at 5000. I can't say that that's the most efficient point for vtec. But when I had mine at 4500 it felt like it just wasn't right. And then I had it at 5200 it seemed like it was too late, but when I have it at 5000 it seems to work for me. I WON'T say i've gained HP etc. But I feel like it works for me, might be diff for other poeple on here, but like I said just my opinion.
My old SOHC setup..I thought my crossover felt better at 4800 rpms, down from 5200. Felt better to me. Well, put it on the dyno, and lost about 4 hp all across the 4500-6000 range. Leave it be, unless you're on a dyno
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