Okay.

Im going to try to keep this short and to the point.

2001 ES1 d17a1

Just got a set of headers yesterday. I am getting ready to install them, but I am going to be running a straight pipe from them. No cat, no muffler. Its going to be custom fab'd for my application, and I was wondering what kind of material would be the best to use. Stainless, aluminum, etc...Will one material give me more power gains than the other? What about the sound? I know its going to be LOUD, but i mean frequency pitch...Which material will get me a deeper tone, and not sound like a pack of angry hornets?

Then I was thinking about other ways to gain some little power here and there. I was thinking about a heatsheild and heatwrap. I would REALLY appreiciate any information on both of the two. I dont really know much on the two, as in what materials are best and exactly what to look for. If you know ANYTHING at all about the two, please give me some info. I'd really apprieciate it.

And then comes to my last question. I remember seeing an ad in a magazine for a co2 system for your car similar to a nitrous setup. It crossed my mind, and Ive tried looking for some info on them but I cannot find anything. What exactly is involved in the setup, how does it work, how much do they cost and where can I find one? Will my engine need to be reinforced like it would for nitrous? I dont know anything about it so, again, any information will be greatly apprieciated.

Edit-

Forgot to ask. I know this is a very simple question, but it crossed my mind the other day and Ive never heard anyone say anything about it.

In the owners manual, it says to use regular 87 octane gas for best results. Will I gain any power by going up to Ultimate/Supreme(93 octane)? From common sense, I want to say yes, there will be an increase, but I just want to make sure before spending extra $$ at the pump, but if I can get a few extra ponies for a few more cents on the gallon, then I dont care.

Will it affect my motor in any way, reliability wise? Since they say to run 87, it wont hurt it or anything will it?

Thanks in advance.


Modified by kptrk6 at 1:03 PM 1/28/2006


Modified by kptrk6 at 1:16 PM 1/28/2006


Modified by kptrk6 at 2:14 PM 1/28/2006

 

Any help?

 

Is this your street car? If so, do yourself and your ear drums a favor. Run an exhaust and a cat. You are not going to realize any gains by ditching them - minimal.

 

Exhaust piping, cat, and muffler...$300+

Straight pipe...$20?

Im working on a budget. If I had the money, I would be all over full exhaust in a heartbeat.

Any help with the other questions?


Modified by kptrk6 at 12:49 PM 1/29/2006

 

Running a straight pipe won't kill you with a D17, I get away with it for track days and I can even do it on the street without bringing the cops running, tho my neighbor's car alarm isn't too happy about it

For the down pipe just use mandrel bent stainless, you can get away with mild but for that little pipe it's not going to be more than 10 bucks difference. Make sure that you put a turn down at the end of the pipe, it makes it a bit quieter and won't mess up the underbody coating.

For header wrap goto summit racing and order up a 4 cylinder kit, it's about 50 bucks and follow the directions. Also, remember to run the car for a while with the hood up outside to get the headers nice and hot to "break in" the header wrap. I've had new wrap smoke occasionally for the first few minutes you get it really hot so don't panic.

With the D17a1 don't worry about running anything over 87, there's no performance gain from more octane. HOWEVER, you can see a couple HP and some butt dyno gains from using higher quality fuel I think it was GRM that had an article and dyno test on it recently.

Finally I wouldn't reccommend running any sort of juiced setup on a D17. A stock engine could do a 50 shot but even that would be asking for tranny problems, especially if you were liberal about the nitrous. For the big gains D17's take well to turbos, or you can always ditch the D for a K20. Either way you can expect big $$$$

 

Thanks SO much. That helps me out ALOT. Especially the fuel octane thing, my low fuel light is on right now and I was getting ready to fill up with supreme @ 2.65/gal...

I think you got confused on the Nitrous question though. I wasnt asking about n2o specifically. I have seen something similar, but it uses CO2 instead. Has anyone ever seen them? I will try to google and see if I find anything at all.

EDIT -

Also, on my headers I just bought, they came with an OBX gasket. Will that be fine or should I get a better one?

 

Found it.

Its called CryO2 by DEI.

http://www.designengineering.c...pid=1

Anyone have any experience with it?

 

i read on this forum that heat wrap is crap and that it retains moisture on the hedder shortnin its lifespan, ive just bort some and i dont know weather to put it on now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kptrk6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Found it.

Its called CryO2 by DEI.

http://www.designengineering.c...pid=1

Anyone have any experience with it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok it sounds all good and all but I am wondering how much the company really knows about what it is working on and here is the reason right here: CryO2 Cryogenic Fuel Bar
The CryO² Fuel Bar is a billet aluminum extension to the fuel line with a cryogenic chamber.

Now I may be wrong but I highly doubt it. To get the best atomization out of the fuel and the most complete burn the hotter the fuel is the better. In the air you want cold dense air so you can pack as much air in the cylinders as possible. The oposite is true for the fuel though you want only as much fuel in the cylinders as there is air for it to cumbust with. For complete combustion to occur (also called stoichiometric combustion) for every gallon of fuel burnt 14.1 gallons of oxygen must also be consumed. The thing is unless you get the molecules of air and fuel properly mixed you will never get close to that perfect combustion (stoichiometric combustion is not possible as the variables are too great) that is where the hotter fuel comes into play. When the fuel is less dense the injectors dont have such a hard time atomizing the fuel particles for the proper mixture thus the fuel will burn better and faster yeilding you more power. That is why many airplanes (inluding the one I work on the F-15) have something called a Fuel and Oil Heat Exchanger (FOHE). What this device does it take the hot oil and run it through a radiator that the fuel passes over. At high altitudes the fuel gets much colder and the oil is pritty hot due to the high temperatures of the jet engine. Thus 2 birds are killed with one stone so to say. The oil is cooled and the fuel is heated up. This allows the combustion to work more properly. Because this company makes an attachment to cool down the fuel I highly doubt anything that this product claims to do as they probably didnt do much reasearch when developing it in the first place.

Cliff notes: product offers to cool fuel = no good and probably just a quick scheme to make some money on the makers part.

 

Yeah that CryO2 fuel rail bit looks like a load of crock. Kinda like electric superchargers and that cyclone widget Don't bother.

The Intercooler sprayer that they offer actually might be of use but you don't have one of those. Besides, any gains you might see are so small as to be offset by the weight of the setup.

As to header wrap: It's great stuff. Yes if you have a crappy bargin header (i.e. not stainless) it can help it rust out, especially if you live somewhere near the beach or somewhere they salt the roads. The life of a set of wrap is going to be significantly shorter than that of a quality set of headers.