need camber kit?
Generally if you are going to drop your car you should get a camber kit. Its not required, it will just prolong the life of your tires. Once you drop your car and it is settled in, go to an alignment shop and have them read your alignment. Just make sure the toe is set to 0.
yea you only woul dneed a camber kit if you lowered it to bring the camber back to the specs. and you dont want toe set to 0, with a front wheel drive you will want a slight ammount of toe out on the front and a small amount of toe in on the rear.
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shaggy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm pretty sure you only need a camber kit if you'll be dropping more than 1-1.5".</TD></TR></TABLE>
don't even need one for that scenario either.
don't even need one for that scenario either.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by myBbbaby »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the more u drop it the more u will need a camber kit. your car will handle poorly if u drop it too much w/o using a kit. and yes it will wear your tires faster </TD></TR></TABLE>
you dummy. Do you really think you know more about lowering and suspension than bad monkey? That is his specialty.
zero out the toe and it will be fine. Im dropped 1.5" . I dont have a camber kit. The tires are fine.
you dummy. Do you really think you know more about lowering and suspension than bad monkey? That is his specialty.
zero out the toe and it will be fine. Im dropped 1.5" . I dont have a camber kit. The tires are fine.
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roller3804 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you dummy. Do you really think you know more about lowering and suspension than bad monkey? That is his specialty.
zero out the toe and it will be fine. Im dropped 1.5" . I dont have a camber kit. The tires are fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
more than it being my specialty, there's empirical evidence, anecdotal evidence, and theoretical basis for camber wear being mostly a myth.
camber alone doesn't mean excess tire wear.
toe alone means that there will be excess tire wear
toe + camber means that there will be REALLY quick, messed up, eat a set of tires in 3 weeks tire wear.
it's important to align your car right away after changing ride height.
as far as negative camber being bad for handling, well, maybe in bizarro world. negative camber is an important component of turning/cornering/handling/whatever you want to call it. it's not the best for straight line acceleration or braking, but in the ranges that most people see, which is -2.5 to -1.0 degree, it's not a big deal.
p.s. - i really am kidding about this "god" business.
i mean, i know some stuff, but everything i know i learneded from honda-tak and carroll smith's "tune to win" (which i highly recommend even if it's pretty hard to understand). in a way i'm just repeating what many very smart and experienced suspension people have told me throughout the years, and have partially experienced when tuning my own suspensions. the engineering/physics background helps, but i'm still waaaaaaay off on completely understanding the physics of suspensions...
Modified by bad-monkey at 8:01 AM 1/28/2006
zero out the toe and it will be fine. Im dropped 1.5" . I dont have a camber kit. The tires are fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
more than it being my specialty, there's empirical evidence, anecdotal evidence, and theoretical basis for camber wear being mostly a myth.
camber alone doesn't mean excess tire wear.
toe alone means that there will be excess tire wear
toe + camber means that there will be REALLY quick, messed up, eat a set of tires in 3 weeks tire wear.
it's important to align your car right away after changing ride height.
as far as negative camber being bad for handling, well, maybe in bizarro world. negative camber is an important component of turning/cornering/handling/whatever you want to call it. it's not the best for straight line acceleration or braking, but in the ranges that most people see, which is -2.5 to -1.0 degree, it's not a big deal.
p.s. - i really am kidding about this "god" business.
i mean, i know some stuff, but everything i know i learneded from honda-tak and carroll smith's "tune to win" (which i highly recommend even if it's pretty hard to understand). in a way i'm just repeating what many very smart and experienced suspension people have told me throughout the years, and have partially experienced when tuning my own suspensions. the engineering/physics background helps, but i'm still waaaaaaay off on completely understanding the physics of suspensions...Modified by bad-monkey at 8:01 AM 1/28/2006
Can't argue with bad-monkey about this one! Look at it this way. If you have the xtra $, get a camber kit. At least you can fine tune the camber on your ride. Later if you decide to drop your Lude further, you wont have to worry about a camber kit.
yea, i dont really have the extra money, and im trying to save up for an H22 swap. thats why i was checking to see if a kit was necessary. thanks for all the input.
Yupt you're definetely going to need an alignment after you install your springs and struts, i know i needed one big time. And camber also causes the car to pull, and when they do your toe, you want .25 degrees more on the left, due to road crown.
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ed_1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And camber also causes the car to pull, and when they do your toe, you want .25 degrees more on the left, due to road crown.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nope, leave toe at ZERO.
deal with road crown by using the steering wheel, s'what it's there for.
nope, leave toe at ZERO.
deal with road crown by using the steering wheel, s'what it's there for.
no you dont want toe to be 0 degrees. see when your cruising down the road you want your toe to be 0 degrees. if you set your toe to 0 while on the alignment rack, when your cruising down the road the wheels will become toed in. thus causing tire wear. to correct this we align then driven wheels with a small amount of toe out, and the non-driven wheels a small ammount of toe in.
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