Alright... I'm getting the feeling that I'm going to be the first B18C1 Integra that has been Megasquirted. I'm not finding any info on anybody who has done this to their car before, so I'm going to be asking a series of questions like this probably.

I'm wondering if anybody knows or can find out how strong of a signal goes into the Vtec solenoid on a P72 (95 Integra GSR). The wire on the ECU is A4, color is green/yellow. I need to know what kind of ohms this wire requires as well as volts.

There are a few other pins that I'm wondering, in detail, what they do. Also, is the stock Knock sensor worth crap or should I just not even bother with it? I hear that Honda just disabled it when Vtec kicks over.

D1 WHT/BLU VBU Back Up Power
D2 GRN/WHT BKSW brake switch
B8 GRN PSPSW PSP switch
B9 BLU/WHT STARTER SIGNAL starter signal
A21 YEL/GRN ICM ICM

Thanks!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KooK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm wondering if anybody knows or can find out how strong of a signal goes into the Vtec solenoid on a P72 (95 Integra GSR). The wire on the ECU is A4, color is green/yellow. I need to know what kind of ohms this wire requires as well as volts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The VTEC wire sends a 12V/Battery Voltage signal out at the designated Vtec point. Not sure of the value in Ohms.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KooK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There are a few other pins that I'm wondering, in detail, what they do. Also, is the stock Knock sensor worth crap or should I just not even bother with it? I hear that Honda just disabled it when Vtec kicks over..</TD></TR></TABLE>

D1 WHT/BLU VBU Back Up Power
Power to retain the memory on the ECU. Once the Back up power has been cut from the ecu, it then resets and goes off the original ROM/ECU settings.

D2 GRN/WHT BKSW brake switch
Detects when the Brake pedal is being pressed.
12V when pressed,
0V when released.

B8 GRN PSPSW PSP switch
Power Steering Oil Pressure Switch..
At idle with steering wheel pointed straight = 0V
At idle with steering wheel turned to full lock = 12V

B9 BLU/WHT STARTER SIGNAL starter signal
Detects starter switch signal -
W/starter switch on = 12V

A21 YEL/GRN ICM
Sends ignition pulse.
When Key turned to III position = 12V
WHen ignition running = Approx 10V
HOPE THIS HELPS!

 

This actually helps alot! Thank you! I just wanted to be sure of the power to the Vtec solenoid so I don't burn it up.

One more thing though, do I need any of those circuits to keep everything running (Power steering, A/C, Alternator)? Say if I disconnect the ECU and just run it stand alone, I know that the ECU has a few things for A/C (Which I will be keeping). I just want to make sure of the wires I need and don't need before I go in there hacking things up.

Thanks!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KooK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This actually helps alot! Thank you! I just wanted to be sure of the power to the Vtec solenoid so I don't burn it up.

One more thing though, do I need any of those circuits to keep everything running (Power steering, A/C, Alternator)? Say if I disconnect the ECU and just run it stand alone, I know that the ECU has a few things for A/C (Which I will be keeping). I just want to make sure of the wires I need and don't need before I go in there hacking things up.

Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeap, you sure do. Otherwise, be ready to see your CEL shine bright...

 

So pretty much, keep the ECU in, you what you need for the engine and cut that light that makes the MIL shine

 

Almost.....due to some of the improper readings from those sensors, your motor may go into its "safe" mode, where vtec wont engage, rpm's restricted, things like that.

 

Doesn't bother me, My ignition, Fuel and Vtec will all be run by a different "ECU." Like I said, I'm installing a Stand Alone (Megasquirt'n Spark EFI)