I was told with 2.3L aftermarket sleeves/pistons, like say eagle sleeves for an H22 block, with a 2.3L crank, you get a 2.5L block? Is this true? I wanna make a high displacement block that is SAFE for summer driving. I'm gonna run the block on a stock head for this summer and build it next winter...or when I see some money. If anyone has any info it would be awesome! Thanks.

 

go to http://www.c-speedracing.com

got to the compression calculator

play with the bore and stroke and you can come up with some diplacement numbers..

you can't go any bigger than 90mm bore safely on a h22 and with even a high 97mm stroke you won't get 2.5 and the h23 crank is 95mm (the 2.3 as you say)

 

At 90MM bore and 97MM Stroke, it's a 2460CC, that's almost 2.5L, how can I acheive this? I know how to get the bore, but the stroke? Sorry, bottom ends are my thing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludesrv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">At 90MM bore and 97MM Stroke, it's a 2460CC, that's almost 2.5L, how can I acheive this? I know how to get the bore, but the stroke? Sorry, bottom ends are my thing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The F23 crank has a 97mm stroke, and of course you could get an aftermarket crank at even greater expense...

 

H22A4
Sleeved Block/89mm bore
F23 crankshaft (reworked to accept .935/1.890 BE bore (B series rods)
Crower 5.564/.935/1.890 rod part # ML93723B-4
Custom 89mm 1.170 compression height pistons w/.827 (B series) wrist pin

That will give you 2413cc's and a r/s ratio of 1.45

Or this:

H22A/1/H23A1
Sleeved Block/89mm bore
H23 crankshaft offset ground from 1.888 to 1.771 (98mm)
Crower 5.564/.935/1.890 rod part # ML93723B-4
Custom 89mm 1.150 compression height pistons w/.827 (B series) wrist pin

This will put you at "0" deck

That will give you 2438cc's and a r/s ratio of 1.44

 

Why do you believe its practical to make an engine from 2.2 l to 2.5 l for reliable daily driving?

 

Or you could just talk to 2point6

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1452586

His original engine he took out to 2.6L but it blew.

 

He also found that 2.44 aprox is where the best power is made (roughly). In truth, he found what most auto manufacturers know .... 2.4L is about as big as a 4 banger can truly get before you run into all kinds of reliability problems and power production is subject to the law of dimenishing returns ....without adding more cylinders.

 

My stroker will be 2.43

 

just turbocharge the bastard while it's a 2.2l and you'll smoke the poor "wallered out-overbored-hangin' on for its dear life" 2.5l engine anyday.

turbocharging is the key to all of life's great mysteries. when in doubt- boost.

 

my porsche has a 2.5 liter..no reliability problems there

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92Lx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He also found that 2.44 aprox is where the best power is made (roughly). In truth, he found what most auto manufacturers know .... 2.4L is about as big as a 4 banger can truly get before you run into all kinds of reliability problems and power production is subject to the law of dimenishing returns ....without adding more cylinders.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Many Nissan 4 bangers are 2.5L and do very well at the track. I dont belive there is a reliability issue most likely just manufactures preference.

 

^ Maybe becasue with Hondas you have to grind down the crank & have a limited deck height. You are 100% right about Nissan tearing it up at the track.

 

Maybe I'll make a 2.45L engine. I want NA tuned. No turbo on the lude, ever. I want NA for reliability and consistant power. My friend has a turbo GSR 2.0L built, and he has alot of issues vs. my brothers 1.8L GSR powered EF all motor. Integra with 550whp ran 11.6, EF with 218whp ran 12.3. concidering the price difference and the reliability factor, I'd go NA anyday.

It's personal preference.

 

just remember that longer stroke, though it makes good power, is not going to last as long, it puts more stress on everything

good work on that hu....if i ever get my hands on a sleeved block, that is the setup, except it will be 90mm bore with an offset ground h23 crank and those rods, probably 13:1 compression if i can get away with it on pump gas....

good work

 

why not just go with a stroker kit.. at least you know it will be safe then

 

Good decision. Just make sure you buy quality parts. Forged pistons & rods, sleeve the block, good cams & valvetrain. Below is a link from H-T about about going N/A. Keep us posted on what you do.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=180883

 

oh dont worry about all that, RLZ will have their hands into head, and im gonna go with benson sleeves and carrillo rods and wiseco pistons....its gonna be nice....

 

Daaaaaamn Mgags! 90mm bore? You're braver than I am. Will 90mm be good for longevity? From what i've read, pocketrocket has gone 90mm. I too plan to send my head to RLZ. Im not sure if I should get his stage II or stage III head package.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Daaaaaamn Mgags! 90mm bore? You're braver than I am. Will 90mm be good for longevity? From what i've read, pocketrocket has gone 90mm. I too plan to send my head to RLZ. Im not sure if I should get his stage II or stage III head package.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if the motor is built right then your motor could last a very very long time, BUT if something does go wrong and it scratches up your cylinder walls there is no room to bore out. its like paying 1000 for a onetime build. where as if you bored to 87, you could go to 87.5 to 88 to 88.5 all the way to 90mm depending on the damage to a sleeve.

all motor can be just as risky and expensive as FI thats what the poster needs to realize. anything done properly can last just as long as a stock motor.

 

if youre looking for long term than i'd stay away from 90mm, the distance between cylinder webs would only be 4mm and head gaskets wont last forever.

but if you want to push it to the max and dont mind fixing it if does go bad then go for it. I plan on getting the endyn 90mm rollerwaves.

oh and pocket rockets will go all the way to a 92mm bore using a different bore spacing. He's doin some really cool **** if you havent read any of his posts. I think he can get an h series up to 2.7 or 2.8 liters. theres a good thread in the n/a forum about one of his motors.

 

Displacement is easy to come by. Making the engine able to breathe at 7000+ rpm is another issue. If you want torque, stroke it, if you want horsepower, rev it. You really cannot do both for a reasonable amount of money with any expectation of longevity.

With a 2.494l engine you will need an induction system capable of at least 350CFM flow at 8000 RPM. H22 heads flow pretty well, but 350CFM from an H-series head is not cheap to get last time I looked.

Take a look in the all motor forum. People with 2.1 liter B-series engines are making 230+whp without too much trouble nowadays. The H22 head flows better than a B-series right from the factory and with a valvejob can flow over 300CFM. The stock H22 has a stroke and displacement advantage over 98% of B-series engines. I would take what's already there and and build on that. It is all just appropriate R&D that gets the power.

Custom cams, custom header, custom intake system with appropriate headwork and tuning to match will get you what you want. Just stroking the engine out to 2.5l will not. I hate to say it, but there is little still going in terms of H/F-series development. It has all shifted to the K-series. Blocks are better, heads are better, tuning capabilities are better. So if you are going to throw $10,000 at an engine consider swapping a slightly modified K24A2 into the old Lude and take advantage of the newer technology. You will have the entire Honda aftermarket at your disposal as technology takes off for the K-series.

Pirate