crx tie rod
I did it once. I popped it out from the hub and with a pipe wrench and a regular wrench I twisted it hard until it broke loose, then it just rotates off.
I do remember there being a bolt there, and the first time I went to do this I grabbed that instead of the tie rod, and nothing moved. It looked like one piece but wasn't. I don't know if thats any help, but that was my experience :/
I do remember there being a bolt there, and the first time I went to do this I grabbed that instead of the tie rod, and nothing moved. It looked like one piece but wasn't. I don't know if thats any help, but that was my experience :/
after taking the cotter pin out and loosening the castle nut (dont remove all the way, keep it loosely threaded), you need to pop off the balljoint (its not a bushing).
there are many ways and tools to pop it off. ive used them all. ive found that a 3-4lbs sledge hammer is best. just start whacking at the edge of the knuckle sidways. do not hit the threads, do not try to hammer the joint UP. just hit the side of the knuckle where its sticking out. it helps to have one hand pulling up on the tie rod to provide some vertical force. just wail on it wit hthe hammer... it WILL come out.
then you just need a 22mm wrench to take off the lock nut, and a 19mm to hold the tie rod in place. put the balljoint back in to help. once that is loose, just twist it off and replace.
get an alignment after youve eyeballed the alignment of the wheel. take a test drive and readjust. but get a professional alignment immediately. if youre doing both, work on one side at a time.
there are many ways and tools to pop it off. ive used them all. ive found that a 3-4lbs sledge hammer is best. just start whacking at the edge of the knuckle sidways. do not hit the threads, do not try to hammer the joint UP. just hit the side of the knuckle where its sticking out. it helps to have one hand pulling up on the tie rod to provide some vertical force. just wail on it wit hthe hammer... it WILL come out.
then you just need a 22mm wrench to take off the lock nut, and a 19mm to hold the tie rod in place. put the balljoint back in to help. once that is loose, just twist it off and replace.
get an alignment after youve eyeballed the alignment of the wheel. take a test drive and readjust. but get a professional alignment immediately. if youre doing both, work on one side at a time.
^^ need two wrenches. I think holding 34 and twisting the tie rod with another wrench usually does it. I believe thats how I did it. It should then screw off by hand. If it does not come back.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you still cant figure it out, take it to a mechanic.</TD></TR></TABLE>
best advice ever... to risky of an area to be learning on your own... have a buddy that knows more than you do to come over and show you how to do it and make sure you do it right
best advice ever... to risky of an area to be learning on your own... have a buddy that knows more than you do to come over and show you how to do it and make sure you do it right
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after taking the cotter pin out and loosening the castle nut (dont remove all the way, keep it loosely threaded), you need to pop off the balljoint (its not a bushing).
there are many ways and tools to pop it off. ive used them all. ive found that a 3-4lbs sledge hammer is best. just start whacking at the edge of the knuckle sidways. do not hit the threads, do not try to hammer the joint UP. just hit the side of the knuckle where its sticking out. it helps to have one hand pulling up on the tie rod to provide some vertical force. just wail on it wit hthe hammer... it WILL come out.
then you just need a 22mm wrench to take off the lock nut, and a 19mm to hold the tie rod in place. put the balljoint back in to help. once that is loose, just twist it off and replace.
get an alignment after youve eyeballed the alignment of the wheel. take a test drive and readjust. but get a professional alignment immediately. if youre doing both, work on one side at a time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
HAHA Great work tyson, I guess people can't read the rest of the posts anymore.
Tyson is right just whak that crap outta it till you see it move!
there are many ways and tools to pop it off. ive used them all. ive found that a 3-4lbs sledge hammer is best. just start whacking at the edge of the knuckle sidways. do not hit the threads, do not try to hammer the joint UP. just hit the side of the knuckle where its sticking out. it helps to have one hand pulling up on the tie rod to provide some vertical force. just wail on it wit hthe hammer... it WILL come out.
then you just need a 22mm wrench to take off the lock nut, and a 19mm to hold the tie rod in place. put the balljoint back in to help. once that is loose, just twist it off and replace.
get an alignment after youve eyeballed the alignment of the wheel. take a test drive and readjust. but get a professional alignment immediately. if youre doing both, work on one side at a time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
HAHA Great work tyson, I guess people can't read the rest of the posts anymore.
Tyson is right just whak that crap outta it till you see it move!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teler86 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">still dont get how to seperate inner from out tie rod</TD></TR></TABLE>
First looosen the 22mm jam nut by turning it clockwise so it goes deeper onto the inner tie rod. Then you can spin the outer tie rod counter-clockwise like a bolt...it will come right off.
First looosen the 22mm jam nut by turning it clockwise so it goes deeper onto the inner tie rod. Then you can spin the outer tie rod counter-clockwise like a bolt...it will come right off.
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