Hole in D16Y8 oil pan...weldable?
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From: Destroying turbo ITR motors in Minneapolis, MN, U.S.A.
I don't even know if weldable is a word.
Anyways, I have the opportunity to get a Y8 oil pan for free. Everything about it is fine, except for the fact that it had the hole for the oil return drilled on the wrong side!!
So there's this mint oil pan with a hole in it. It's aluminum I believe, can I get it fixed? I have access to someone with a welder, does it matter if it's MIG or TIG? Which one do I need for that type of repair?
TIA, I don't do the whole "welding" thing
Anyways, I have the opportunity to get a Y8 oil pan for free. Everything about it is fine, except for the fact that it had the hole for the oil return drilled on the wrong side!!

So there's this mint oil pan with a hole in it. It's aluminum I believe, can I get it fixed? I have access to someone with a welder, does it matter if it's MIG or TIG? Which one do I need for that type of repair?
TIA, I don't do the whole "welding" thing

yes it can be welded. Tig is the easiest way, just bring it to someone that is setup to weld aluminum wether it be with a mig or tig.
If it's aluminum, filling that hole will be a bitch for the welder.
I've never tried that, but I'd imagine MIG would be much more suitable to fill a 1/4" hole .
I've never tried that, but I'd imagine MIG would be much more suitable to fill a 1/4" hole .
to my understanding the y8 pan is aluminum where as the y7 pan is steel, have you tried sourcing a used pan? junk yard etc?
just throw a fitting in it and cap the fitting, that would probably be the easiest solution. it would be easy enough to weld it closed, but you might want to use it for an oil cooler return or an oil temperature sending unit or something of that nature.
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or if your a cheap *** and dont care if it leaks get a pipe plug that size and thread it in from the back side, with a nut going over it on the other side, and rtv away!
or you could also use on of those expand fittings, you know the ones where you stick it in the hole and tighten the fitting and the rubber expands.
But for peace of mind either get a new one or get that bish welded.
or you could also use on of those expand fittings, you know the ones where you stick it in the hole and tighten the fitting and the rubber expands.
But for peace of mind either get a new one or get that bish welded.
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From: Destroying turbo ITR motors in Minneapolis, MN, U.S.A.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B6tPoweredMx3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or if your a cheap *** and dont care if it leaks get a pipe plug that size and thread it in from the back side, with a nut going over it on the other side, and rtv away!
or you could also use on of those expand fittings, you know the ones where you stick it in the hole and tighten the fitting and the rubber expands.
But for peace of mind either get a new one or get that bish welded.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I finally picked up the oil pan.
It's a circular hole, a little bigger than a quarter.
or you could also use on of those expand fittings, you know the ones where you stick it in the hole and tighten the fitting and the rubber expands.
But for peace of mind either get a new one or get that bish welded.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I finally picked up the oil pan.
It's a circular hole, a little bigger than a quarter.
Measure the size of the hole. Go to home depot/lowes/ace/a hardware store. Buy a bolt that will screw into said hole. If anything, buy bigger and just drill out the hole slightly with a stepped drill bit. Also purchase a lock washer and a nut. Now take the bolt and put some silicone gasket stuff around the threads. Screw it into the hole. On the back side do the same and put the lock washer than the nut. Tighten it all up. Clean up any silicone that spewed out. Let everything dry up for 24 hours. Then on the outside spread a healthy amount of JB weld around the bolt. Stick the oil pan in a cardboard box with a small space heater and cure the JB weld over about a 12 hour period. This should hold and have no problems with leaks. Either do this or bring it to a fab shop, they will get a piece of scrap and weld it in the hole. Probably cost you $30-50 though while my method will probably cost you $5-10.
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From: Destroying turbo ITR motors in Minneapolis, MN, U.S.A.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evian »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tig a patch over it, it should be fine
</TD></TR></TABLE>
On the outside or inside of the pan?
</TD></TR></TABLE>On the outside or inside of the pan?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-charged »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that would be easy to tig...ive never seen a aluminum mig weld in person that didnt make me want to throw up haha</TD></TR></TABLE>
does a spool gun count?
does a spool gun count?
I would just weld an aluminum plug or fitting over hole.... Get one of those aluminum fittings, like a 1/4" NPT bung or something, and weld it onto the pan. Then use a 1/4" NPT plug and plug it up just in case you'd want to use it in the future.
honda cast aluminum is usually a pain in the *** to weld, at least from our experience.
take it to a good welder, and make sure it is CLEAN.
take it to a good welder, and make sure it is CLEAN.
Even if it is made of a weldable alloy, it will probably still seep oil since it is pretty difficult to get the hole to seal unless the base material is uber-clean. I'd have it aluminum brazed with a "patch" covering the hole, by either a radiator shop or any professional brazer, since the brazing material will wick into any voids creating a good seal.
Any capable tig welder that knows his alloys should be able to fix this pan.
The pan can be welded either by filling the whole or by haveing a patch welded to the outside. Or if you want to be really careful plug weld the hole sand down the outside weld then patch it as well.
And when it's finished have the shop dye penetrant test the pan for leaks. All the pans we repair are tested before leaving, you would be amazed how cracks can travel further than the human eye can detect.
This repair shouldn't cost you anymore than $20-30 at a local welding shop.
Also if you can, try to sand and clean the area to be welded before taking it in... Welders hate to have to remove paint, glue, or sealant the customer put on.
Good luck!
The pan can be welded either by filling the whole or by haveing a patch welded to the outside. Or if you want to be really careful plug weld the hole sand down the outside weld then patch it as well.
And when it's finished have the shop dye penetrant test the pan for leaks. All the pans we repair are tested before leaving, you would be amazed how cracks can travel further than the human eye can detect.
This repair shouldn't cost you anymore than $20-30 at a local welding shop.
Also if you can, try to sand and clean the area to be welded before taking it in... Welders hate to have to remove paint, glue, or sealant the customer put on.
Good luck!
bump, i put a crack in mine about the length of my index finger. i think im just going to see if i can get it welded. jb weld didnt work too good. i was told to heat it up a little bit and maybe the aluminum will stretch and close the holes. i cant see through the oil pan, yet it still leaks... gar.
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