Stay F/I or go back N/A?
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Dreaming of east Tennessee!
I'm more than likely going to yank the motor due to some internal issues I'm having. I've had my R SC'd for about 25K miles or so. I know theres alot more problems when U have a SC'd or turbo motor but I must admit, it's real hard to go back to a lesser HP car when your used to having all that HP on tap. Just want the opinions of some of U "R" guys. Thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vivid 02 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Boost is better.
My NA build cost too much money. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree on that point... either stay stock or boost the expletive out of it. The N/A mods are just so marginal... you can spend a grand on 5-10 HP here and there!
My NA build cost too much money. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree on that point... either stay stock or boost the expletive out of it. The N/A mods are just so marginal... you can spend a grand on 5-10 HP here and there!
They are both fun in their own ways. I still enjoy my NA GSR as much as I do the turbo R. If all you are in for is the power and want to play the horsepower game, than yes, FI would be your answer, or maybe a K20.
HOWEVER, I do know of an NA teg here on the forum that I would bet my money on is much faster than some FI R's here. His name is Bradstard.
HOWEVER, I do know of an NA teg here on the forum that I would bet my money on is much faster than some FI R's here. His name is Bradstard.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*sigh*
Sucks to hear it.
I don't know why anyone would b00st an R.... well, yes I do. Does that mean it makes sense to unboost it? Hmm.
-Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>
It makes absolutely no sense
. Going from 500whp to 200whp...I can definately feel the difference, but I no longer have this tick in the back of my mind like something is going to break (and be expensive to replace).
Boosted R's = t3h Suk
Sucks to hear it.
I don't know why anyone would b00st an R.... well, yes I do. Does that mean it makes sense to unboost it? Hmm.
-Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>
It makes absolutely no sense
. Going from 500whp to 200whp...I can definately feel the difference, but I no longer have this tick in the back of my mind like something is going to break (and be expensive to replace).Boosted R's = t3h Suk
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">na sucks unless it's a healthy k20r..... and even then it's hard to justify the na powah (or lack thereof). </TD></TR></TABLE>
i completely dis-agree ... i make 240 whp in a 2.0 liter r w/ 12.5.1 comp. and walk s/c and t/c cars all day long ... n/a is very reliable and if your build is good and tuned propperly you can out perform tempermental turbo'd or supercharged cars all day long ....
i completely dis-agree ... i make 240 whp in a 2.0 liter r w/ 12.5.1 comp. and walk s/c and t/c cars all day long ... n/a is very reliable and if your build is good and tuned propperly you can out perform tempermental turbo'd or supercharged cars all day long ....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NA is the way and IMO is more reliable than a FI application.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hype r 555 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i make 240 whp in a 2.0 liter r w/ 12.5.1 comp.... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh yeah, and THAT sounds reliable
Oh yeah, and THAT sounds reliable
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hype r 555 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i completely dis-agree ... i make 240 whp in a 2.0 liter r w/ 12.5.1 comp. and walk s/c and t/c cars all day long ... n/a is very reliable and if your build is good and tuned propperly you can out perform tempermental turbo'd or supercharged cars all day long .... </TD></TR></TABLE>
no motor pushed to the limit is reliable.. if yo'ure pushing 240whp n/a you're pushing it to the limit. high rpm are dangerous, aftermarket valvetrain takes a beating and needs to be serviced/replaced more often to maintan reliability. these products are intended for race use, so if you translate that as everyday reliability then fine..
and 240whp on stock b series motor should be way more reliable than 240whp n/a motor.. just scroll down the archives and look at all snapped aftermarket valvetrain components, camgears etc.. turbo at 240whp is likely to damage rings, when upper end snaps, your whole engine is done.
there are clear risks involved when going for a lot more hp. to thread starter, if you cna't afford to rebuild then don't boost. if you have a backup car, then its more reasons to boost. and if you want real hp, switch to turbo.
i completely dis-agree ... i make 240 whp in a 2.0 liter r w/ 12.5.1 comp. and walk s/c and t/c cars all day long ... n/a is very reliable and if your build is good and tuned propperly you can out perform tempermental turbo'd or supercharged cars all day long .... </TD></TR></TABLE>
no motor pushed to the limit is reliable.. if yo'ure pushing 240whp n/a you're pushing it to the limit. high rpm are dangerous, aftermarket valvetrain takes a beating and needs to be serviced/replaced more often to maintan reliability. these products are intended for race use, so if you translate that as everyday reliability then fine..
and 240whp on stock b series motor should be way more reliable than 240whp n/a motor.. just scroll down the archives and look at all snapped aftermarket valvetrain components, camgears etc.. turbo at 240whp is likely to damage rings, when upper end snaps, your whole engine is done.
there are clear risks involved when going for a lot more hp. to thread starter, if you cna't afford to rebuild then don't boost. if you have a backup car, then its more reasons to boost. and if you want real hp, switch to turbo.
I regret spending 10k+ on my all motor setup. then it a'sploded.
Id say the best thing about a strong N/A setup is <u>usually</u> just ab00t ALL of the power is usable. A high powered F/I setup the power is less usable with much more input and feathering the throttle needed to get the power down, such as powering out of a turn. but on the straights....peace!
there are so many pros/cons of each.
my R will be F/I by summer.
Id say the best thing about a strong N/A setup is <u>usually</u> just ab00t ALL of the power is usable. A high powered F/I setup the power is less usable with much more input and feathering the throttle needed to get the power down, such as powering out of a turn. but on the straights....peace!
there are so many pros/cons of each.
my R will be F/I by summer.
Did you buy your ITR to drag race? Do you street race with it all the time?
If you don't leave it NA and enjoy it for what it was designed to do.
I have a pretty darn fast turbo B-series hatch and it doesn't make the Type-R any less enjoyable. In fact I'll be relieved to get back into the Type-R because I can't stand laggy throttle response and the inability to have any sort of fun at lower speeds. Trying to power out of low speed corners in a high powered FWD car just plain blows. In that regard the ITR is 10000000000000 times more fun.
Another thing to mention is that from a stop my ITR absolutely DESTROYS my turbo hatch. Unless you drive around on slicks everday you are going to have traction issues with a turbo honda plain and simple.
Bottom line is that building some mega fast FWD turbo ITR is only good for one thing and that's accelerating hard from a roll. 99.9% of other time it either blows or is completely pointless.
IMO leave the car stock and spend the money on track time.
If you don't leave it NA and enjoy it for what it was designed to do.
I have a pretty darn fast turbo B-series hatch and it doesn't make the Type-R any less enjoyable. In fact I'll be relieved to get back into the Type-R because I can't stand laggy throttle response and the inability to have any sort of fun at lower speeds. Trying to power out of low speed corners in a high powered FWD car just plain blows. In that regard the ITR is 10000000000000 times more fun.
Another thing to mention is that from a stop my ITR absolutely DESTROYS my turbo hatch. Unless you drive around on slicks everday you are going to have traction issues with a turbo honda plain and simple.
Bottom line is that building some mega fast FWD turbo ITR is only good for one thing and that's accelerating hard from a roll. 99.9% of other time it either blows or is completely pointless.
IMO leave the car stock and spend the money on track time.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,251
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From: Dreaming of east Tennessee!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CPR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Were the internal engine problems caused by the JRSC and what are the issues your running into exactly?</TD></TR></TABLE>I needed a retune cause it would detonate under boost around 7K RPM or so. So I just drove it normal w/ no probs @ all. But I really think when I had the car in the shop for some body work someone ragged the crap out of it when it had to be taken to the alignment shop & back. I told my wife something was weird in the way the car acted when I got it back. Also the clutch now ingages about a 1/2" higher than it use to w/ a sloppy engagement. I wouldn't want to accuse anyone of something they didn't do but it's the only explanation I have. It was just fine before it was out of my hands for 2 weeks. As far as the issues I'm having..... It has the sound of a weak cylinder when cold & it started puking a little oil out of the breather filter on the valve cover. I'm going for a compression & leak down test Fri.
Modified by HYREV2NR at 2:56 AM 1/20/2006
Modified by HYREV2NR at 2:56 AM 1/20/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HYREV2NR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">..... It has the sound of a weak cylinder when cold & it started puking a little oil out of the breather filter on the valve cover. I'm going for a compression & leak down test Fri.
Modified by HYREV2NR at 2:56 AM 1/20/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yikes! Hope for the best
If you feel that your car was mishandled it is your obligation to find out. I think for the most part the people who drive ITR's, S2000's, NSX's tend to pay a little more attention to what the car is doing at all times. I can always tell a difference when someone has driven my cars. This is why I don't let anyone touch it anymore.
For you...kindly bring it up to the shop manager. Don't be a dick about it and simply say that you feel that there is something wrong and you need to discuss it.
Modified by HYREV2NR at 2:56 AM 1/20/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yikes! Hope for the best
If you feel that your car was mishandled it is your obligation to find out. I think for the most part the people who drive ITR's, S2000's, NSX's tend to pay a little more attention to what the car is doing at all times. I can always tell a difference when someone has driven my cars. This is why I don't let anyone touch it anymore.
For you...kindly bring it up to the shop manager. Don't be a dick about it and simply say that you feel that there is something wrong and you need to discuss it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HYREV2NR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">started puking a little oil out of the breather filter on the valve cover. </TD></TR></TABLE>
breather filters can damage your engine, it becomes a restriction when soaked with oil.
breather filters can damage your engine, it becomes a restriction when soaked with oil.





