H22 All Motor setup need help, what to use? and some knowledge....
I just posted about my my missed shift, that has my car sitting on stanby for now. so i figured this was the perfect opportunity to go ahead and build it. i want to send both the block and head off to earl and get all that done....keep in mind the car will be daily driven. her is what i want
Bottom End:
Benson sleeved block
Benson balanced and micropolished crank
CP pistons and rings(<U>12 : 1 comp</U>)
Pauter rods
ACL bearings
Balance shaft removal mod OEM oil pump
Gaskets as required
Blueprint and assembly $3,300
Head:
Port and polish
SuperTech SS valves
dual springs
titanium retainers
valve job and surface $1,500
ARP Headstuds Own
Cam's i havn't decide on which ones....? <U>help here would be nice</U>
Hondata S300 $600
once that is paid for im getting ITB's $1,800
DP nitrous haven't really checked in to nitrous yet just want the motor built first. and was wondering what shot would be good with that compression
So like $5,400 w/o ITB's,DP, and tuning and i know a AEM certified tuner who also works with hondata that will proly do it for around 3-450
i was talkin to a couple of friends and have had a dispute over a few things basicaly they say i want a unstreetable car and daily drive it heres why: 12 : 1 comp, Stage 3 cams, and <U>eventually</U> ITB's and Direct port nitrous 150-200 shot, now i know that prolly comes off as a ricer and a half and i do have my flame suit on so go ahead let me have but try to be informal about it. also Would Hondata S300 be good for this or not? What do think the number would be on the dyno with this setup just a round about guess? my goal it around 250 all motor.also any links would be good thankz
Bottom End:
Benson sleeved block
Benson balanced and micropolished crank
CP pistons and rings(<U>12 : 1 comp</U>)
Pauter rods
ACL bearings
Balance shaft removal mod OEM oil pump
Gaskets as required
Blueprint and assembly $3,300
Head:
Port and polish
SuperTech SS valves
dual springs
titanium retainers
valve job and surface $1,500
ARP Headstuds Own
Cam's i havn't decide on which ones....? <U>help here would be nice</U>
Hondata S300 $600
once that is paid for im getting ITB's $1,800
DP nitrous haven't really checked in to nitrous yet just want the motor built first. and was wondering what shot would be good with that compression
So like $5,400 w/o ITB's,DP, and tuning and i know a AEM certified tuner who also works with hondata that will proly do it for around 3-450
i was talkin to a couple of friends and have had a dispute over a few things basicaly they say i want a unstreetable car and daily drive it heres why: 12 : 1 comp, Stage 3 cams, and <U>eventually</U> ITB's and Direct port nitrous 150-200 shot, now i know that prolly comes off as a ricer and a half and i do have my flame suit on so go ahead let me have but try to be informal about it. also Would Hondata S300 be good for this or not? What do think the number would be on the dyno with this setup just a round about guess? my goal it around 250 all motor.also any links would be good thankz
damn, sounds like you've got some serious money to drop.
I love Pauter rods but I might consider switching them for Crowers new ultra light rods if you're going all-motor. But if you are definately going with NOS then back to the Pauters.
From what I hear in the N/A forum 12:1 is streetable with a good tune.
Personally I like the AEM ems, you have so many more options than a hondata. I know alot of people here use hondata, and it works very well, but if you got the coin I'd buy an aem.
Also dont forget a badass header.
I love Pauter rods but I might consider switching them for Crowers new ultra light rods if you're going all-motor. But if you are definately going with NOS then back to the Pauters.
From what I hear in the N/A forum 12:1 is streetable with a good tune.
Personally I like the AEM ems, you have so many more options than a hondata. I know alot of people here use hondata, and it works very well, but if you got the coin I'd buy an aem.
Also dont forget a badass header.
For injectors I would go with some from RC engineering. As for the size use this equation:
(Horsepower x B.S.F.C)/(# of injectors x Duty cycle)
Horsepower for this equation is measured at the crank. B.S.F.C stands for brake specific fuel consumption. Duty cycle is the percentage of time your injectors are open. For example if you are shooting for 250whp then I would use a number like 295 for the crank hp (assuming 15% loss due to the drive train). For the B.S.F.C. I would use 0.5 in an all motor application. You should have 4 injectors. And use .80 for the duty cycle as this is the number injector companies use to flow rate their injectors. So with this being said, you will have:
(295 x .5)/(4 x .8)= 46.1 lb/hr
RC injectors are rated in cc/min so multiply that number by 10.5 and you get....
about 484 cc/min
You are going to want to get injectors at least that big or larger. I am not super knowledgeable in nitrous but if you are going to run nitrous then you will need more fuel. You will want to go with a direct port system, as you said, that adds both fuel and nitrous into a fogging nozzle in each runner of the intake manifold or velocity stack of your itb. If you use an itb setup then this is the only way it can be done. Hopefully someone with experience with nitrous can chime in to help you out more in that area. Hope this helps.
(Horsepower x B.S.F.C)/(# of injectors x Duty cycle)
Horsepower for this equation is measured at the crank. B.S.F.C stands for brake specific fuel consumption. Duty cycle is the percentage of time your injectors are open. For example if you are shooting for 250whp then I would use a number like 295 for the crank hp (assuming 15% loss due to the drive train). For the B.S.F.C. I would use 0.5 in an all motor application. You should have 4 injectors. And use .80 for the duty cycle as this is the number injector companies use to flow rate their injectors. So with this being said, you will have:
(295 x .5)/(4 x .8)= 46.1 lb/hr
RC injectors are rated in cc/min so multiply that number by 10.5 and you get....
about 484 cc/min
You are going to want to get injectors at least that big or larger. I am not super knowledgeable in nitrous but if you are going to run nitrous then you will need more fuel. You will want to go with a direct port system, as you said, that adds both fuel and nitrous into a fogging nozzle in each runner of the intake manifold or velocity stack of your itb. If you use an itb setup then this is the only way it can be done. Hopefully someone with experience with nitrous can chime in to help you out more in that area. Hope this helps.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92JDMH22Prelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just posted about my my missed shift, that has my car sitting on stanby for now. so i figured this was the perfect opportunity to go ahead and build it. i want to send both the block and head off to earl and get all that done....keep in mind the car will be daily driven. her is what i want
Bottom End:
Benson sleeved block
Benson balanced and micropolished crank
CP pistons and rings(<U>12 : 1 comp</U>)
Pauter rods
ACL bearings
Balance shaft removal mod OEM oil pump
Gaskets as required
Blueprint and assembly $3,300
Head:
Port and polish
SuperTech SS valves
dual springs
titanium retainers
valve job and surface $1,500
ARP Headstuds Own
Cam's i havn't decide on which ones....? <U>help here would be nice</U>
Hondata S300 $600
once that is paid for im getting ITB's $1,800
DP nitrous haven't really checked in to nitrous yet just want the motor built first. and was wondering what shot would be good with that compression
So like $5,400 w/o ITB's,DP, and tuning and i know a AEM certified tuner who also works with hondata that will proly do it for around 3-450
i was talkin to a couple of friends and have had a dispute over a few things basicaly they say i want a unstreetable car and daily drive it heres why: 12 : 1 comp, Stage 3 cams, and <U>eventually</U> ITB's and Direct port nitrous 150-200 shot, now i know that prolly comes off as a ricer and a half and i do have my flame suit on so go ahead let me have but try to be informal about it. also Would Hondata S300 be good for this or not? What do think the number would be on the dyno with this setup just a round about guess? my goal it around 250 all motor.also any links would be good thankz</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds sick. sounds like you have a good plan so far. nice idea with benson's sleeves..just make sure they take care shipping your block back(i wont give details on a bad experience but urge them to take care)
look at rocket's cams..theyll probably be the most aggressive out there
12:1 is fine for the street but personally, i'd go with Wiseco pistons. what bore are you gonna use? do you plan on stroking it?
Bottom End:
Benson sleeved block
Benson balanced and micropolished crank
CP pistons and rings(<U>12 : 1 comp</U>)
Pauter rods
ACL bearings
Balance shaft removal mod OEM oil pump
Gaskets as required
Blueprint and assembly $3,300
Head:
Port and polish
SuperTech SS valves
dual springs
titanium retainers
valve job and surface $1,500
ARP Headstuds Own
Cam's i havn't decide on which ones....? <U>help here would be nice</U>
Hondata S300 $600
once that is paid for im getting ITB's $1,800
DP nitrous haven't really checked in to nitrous yet just want the motor built first. and was wondering what shot would be good with that compression
So like $5,400 w/o ITB's,DP, and tuning and i know a AEM certified tuner who also works with hondata that will proly do it for around 3-450
i was talkin to a couple of friends and have had a dispute over a few things basicaly they say i want a unstreetable car and daily drive it heres why: 12 : 1 comp, Stage 3 cams, and <U>eventually</U> ITB's and Direct port nitrous 150-200 shot, now i know that prolly comes off as a ricer and a half and i do have my flame suit on so go ahead let me have but try to be informal about it. also Would Hondata S300 be good for this or not? What do think the number would be on the dyno with this setup just a round about guess? my goal it around 250 all motor.also any links would be good thankz</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds sick. sounds like you have a good plan so far. nice idea with benson's sleeves..just make sure they take care shipping your block back(i wont give details on a bad experience but urge them to take care)
look at rocket's cams..theyll probably be the most aggressive out there
12:1 is fine for the street but personally, i'd go with Wiseco pistons. what bore are you gonna use? do you plan on stroking it?
im no tto sure on what bore to use....any opinons? and stroking it ehh? also just a lil bit of a money factor but i do want to do it right the first time around
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If its getting sleeved then it wont cost much more if any to bore it to whatever you want.
The boring and stroking thing has been talked about plenty on here, just search around. There are several different ways you could go.
The boring and stroking thing has been talked about plenty on here, just search around. There are several different ways you could go.
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