For all you guys that know my story. (if you don’t know my story, read it here.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1487096 )

Accord 97 SE 2.2 Non-VTEC F22b2

I finally opened the cylinder head, and there was no valve and no piston damage. Put everything back on, and the car ran! Wow!

But I put the valves btw 0.035 intake and 0.045in (too open I know, I confused the page manual) after readjusting them, the engine ran again with no valve ticking, almost perfectly, but stalling. (I tested spark plugs, cables, everything I took out, and nothing so, I thought it was the timing that was too ahead or too late, am I wrong? (The white mark on the crankshaft was not in the white mark, its was right over the red one (ignition, if I'm not wrong)

I tried to fix that moving the belt some tooth back and forth of the camshaft sprocket. When I was testing this, I had the idea of moving the wheels (car over jacks) I started speeding it a little... the engine passed to second at about 2000 rpm and CLACK!

The camshaft broke again in the same spot as the old one (right where the camshaft sprocket nut goes) I damned every ant that was in the garage at that time.

Now after a whole afternoon of reflection and sadness, I decided to replace the camshaft, yep again. (I’m too poor to buy an engine, I already know how to do almost all, and camshaft is only 89 bucks.)

QUESTIONS

Now my questions and please help me if you didn’t understand, something ask me.

I’m pretty sure the camshaft spot where the sprocket goes connected with the sprocket is breaking at cause of two things. As it did the first time.

The nut is not in the right torque (I did put it on the right one this time)

Or the timing belt is too tight? Which I think is the 98% reason of it

As is the first time for me doing this I don’t know how is the tightness of a timing belt. I never took the belt out, I just inserted in the sprocket after I installed everything back. I haven’t find any info about timing belt tightness, or else

so please give me your hints, ideas, questions and solutions!!

THANKS EVERYBODY YOU GUYS HAS HELPED ME A LOT!


Yury



Modified by zerobacan at 11:34 AM 1/14/2006

 

Again:

"Actually, this failure is caused by one of two reasons;
1) Breaks just behind sprocket
..... Sprocket retainer bolt worked loose, allowing sprocket to start wobbling and impacting side loads to the camshaft. Many times caused by incorrect torque applied during previous timing belt replacement.
2) Camshaft breaks mid-point.
..... Seized in head from either oil starvation, or localized overheating. Can be caused by sludge buildup (starvation as pump pickup clogs with sludge from pan) or Overheating from sudden coolant loss (radiator failure or a "HORSE" blows out.
[quote] "same time I changed a failure horse that made my car over heated for third time" [quote].
You should at least pull the head to determine if there's any collateral damage. If none is found, follow TouringAccord's suggestion and at the minimum get a head assembly for it."
P

And:
"You're still going to have to determine why it (the cam) seized. If you've any sludge under the valve cover, you've also got it in the oil pan as well. It could have starved the oil pump"

The timing belt tension is controlled by the auto-tensioner. If this item wasn't damaged with the first failure, I'd surely suspect it now. It should be replaced as a matter of course whenever a t' belt fails.

When you were adusting the valve lash, did you notice if oil was getting up into the head? Was the top of the head, (Under the valve cover) the color of gold anodized aluminum, or was it black? What was the condition of the cam bearing surfaces (NOT the lobes)?

P

 

PAdams covered it.
The camshaft spocket bolt should be torqued to 28ft lbs. Over torquing it will cause the camshaft to break off after a short running period. Also, to much tension on the timing belt will do the same thing.

 

just a suggestion, wouldnt it be easier to go to you local junk yard and pick up a good used head? adding up both camshafts 89x2 =178 and they charge somewhere around there this way you wont have to keep dealing with the shaft braking.

i know you said your low on my but for a few bucks more you'll save your self the time and you can sell your old one on ebay and maybe someone can find whats wrong. and this way you wont end up blowing a piston or something more catastrophic.

 

how have you been adjusting t-belt tension ???

 

i just wonder... it is a stupid question forgive me not to insult your intelligence , but you are inserting the little keyway in the cam for the top pulley right ??

 

once again I am gonna say go straight to rebuild, do not attempt to repair the camshaft. you are having oil pressure problems and I still stand by what I said before.


You would have been money a head if you just listened to what I said. Now if you rebuild you are out $90 and your time and effort.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">once again I am gonna say go straight to rebuild, do not attempt to repair the camshaft. you are having oil pressure problems and I still stand by what I said before.


You would have been money a head if you just listened to what I said. Now if you rebuild you are out $90 and your time and effort.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i totally agree with you,,,,,,,,,personally i think he should go with one of these low miles japanese engine or at least 1 from a salvage yard ...but i understand the money situation ..

 

around here you can get a F22 for $400 or so with about 50-70K on them. They are usually pulled from cars that have been totalled.

 

the broken piece of the camshaft is still inside the sprocket with the nut on it. therefore the nut maybe too tight.
[quote=P_Adams]
2) Camshaft breaks mid-point.
..... Seized in head from either oil starvation, or localized overheating. Can be caused by sludge buildup (starvation as pump pickup clogs with sludge from pan) or Overheating from sudden coolant loss (radiator failure or a "HORSE" blows out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> "same time I changed a failure horse that made my car over heated for third time" Im geeting good oil lubrication. engine worked with no noise or problem, as my previous post said i did change the oil pan gasket, so i saw the oil with my eyes, and there was in good shape. ( alt ought, i still have a damn oil leak down there...)

yes i am, I was slipping the belt in the pulley, moving it with the crankshaft pulley counterclockwise, i know it sounds too "mickey mouse" i might be giving the pulley to much pressure, but the engine itself should give more pressure than that.


And for all you guys that recommend to change the head, i would give the car it last opportunity, then rebuild.

Thanks!!

Modified by zerobacan at 1:17 PM 1/14/2006


Modified by zerobacan at 6:27 PM 1/14/2006

 

nothing?