Wassup folk, I am about to purchase a 90 accord ex and the owner said that it is misfiring on the #1 cylinder. He say it drives fine but when you come to a stop you have to keep your feet on the gas or it will shut off. i was wondering is this a easy fix or should i run away from this deal. any help would be greatly appreciated

 

could be as simple as a bad injector or spark plug, but could be much worse (bad piston)

do a compression test, if the compression test comes back OK then it's probably a simple fix.

 

Thanks how expensive is a compression test is it something you could do yourself?

 

who is this guy???
how much does he want???
if it sounds too good to be true...

$60 for a brand new craftsmen compression gauge with fittings... and instructions!

gl

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J WALES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wassup folk, I am about to purchase a 90 accord ex and the owner said that it is misfiring on the #1 cylinder. He say it drives fine but when you come to a stop you have to keep your feet on the gas or it will shut off. i was wondering is this a easy fix or should i run away from this deal. any help would be greatly appreciated</TD></TR></TABLE>

It doesnt run"fine" if its misfireing and you have to keep your feet on the gas when u stop ::shakes my head:: how much does he want for it? Milage?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J WALES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks how expensive is a compression test is it something you could do yourself?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i was wondering the same thing .

 

a helms/haynes manual says how to do it i believe

just gotta buy the gauge.

basically you, remove all spark plugs, hook up the tester to the plug holes and......

...crank the engine while holding the throttle? im not sure exactly, someone confirm.

 

ok here goes compression testing 101:

you can buy a compression tester at autozone or the like for $25.

to test:
remove fuel pump fuse (so you don't flood your cylinders)
remove all four spark plugs
thread compression tester into cylinder # 1
have friend hold tester - friend is to yell to you when needle stops moving
get in car, <u>press gas pedal all the way to the floor</u>, and crank car over until friend says stop
read and record test results

repeat for each cylinder. check results are within approximately 5% of each other.

example of a good result: 200 200 195 200

example of bad: 200 120 80 200

put plugs & fuse back in.

HTH

 

if it will run pumping the pedal but dies at idle or dies when you keep the pedal down (no pumping the pedal) its the distributor cap. take the cap off and look at the vent hole to see if it has small cracks or carbon tracking in it. if the car runs bapping the gas pedal but dies idling or on steady acceleration it this cause the lower the rpm the colder the spark rev it up is hotter spark and the timing advances causing it to misfire. put a timing light on it to prove this. cracks in caps can have many stupid symptoms on hondas ..also smell inside the dist. for carbon tracking or a burnt smell

 

Compression test:
What you're looking for is not only a high enough pressure (140/165 after 5 compression cycles), but consistency of pressure between cylinders. This will give you a rough idea of cylinder health.
If one cylinder reads consistently low, you're looking at either a burned valve, a mis-adjusted valve or worn/broken piston rings.

If you find no abnormalities with regards to the test results; you'll most likely be dealing with either a plug/ plug wire/ distributor cap or vacuum leak issue.

P

 

dude want $1000 for a fully loaded 90 accord with bout 180000 miles on it. i really want it cause it has leather seats in good condition and they are hard to come by. Yall think i should get it hoping that its only a distributor cap or something simple or should i haul azz and fagitaboutit?

yo yall fellas know your stuff, this is a ill forum! thanks

 

tell him you'll give him 775.00 due to the fact that you have to put money into the car and if he says not tell him to have a nice day

 

Make the sale conditional upon the car passing a compression test. If he goes for it, so much the better. If he doesn't, that should tell you something.

P

 

i would not buy the car till you have it checked out,,,,,,,,,take it to a shop and request a buyer's inspection ,,cost 50-75 dollars ,, best money you will ever spend when buying a used car ,,,
If it is a burnt valve , you are looking with parts and labor to sink at least another 1000 into it ,,