I've got 90,000 clicks on the odometer and my suspension obviously doesn't feel as responsive as it once did. I'm looking to replace them keeping the following in mind.


a.) I want to stay close to the handling characteristics of the stock suspension. That's slight understeer with the ability to induce oversteer by lifting off the throttle.

b.) I want ride comfort to be close to stock since it's a daily driver and my wife can only handle so much. I also do a lot of driving between Toronto and Virginia.

c.) Something relatively cheap and Zeal B2 at $1075+shipping is a good deal for me.


I was originally going for the Mugen lowdowns since I believe Mugen does a good job at customizing parts for particular cars but being over $1600 and not rebuildable, I thought it would be silly to go down this route. Is there any reason why I shouldn't go with the B2s? Is the 12k/8k Zeal setup too harsh for the street?

 

I thought they discontined the B2s? Shrug.

I don't see any reason why you should replace your suspension with the B2s. I have the B2s with F:10K and R:8K and they get a in my book. Street ride is fine as long as the shocks are set to </=3 (6-way adjustable).

 

Another option in your price range is the T1R coilovers. I think R&D has them on for $995. A local friend of mine has them and they are great for the street and the track. A little harsh at 12k and 10k but the dampers seem to really do they're job at keeping the car planted during a corner but forgiving when you hit a sharp bump. Not sure about the rebuildable option; I would guess no.

I'm in the market for new suspension as well but there is TOO much info. I can't make up my mind

On a side note, my friend rolls on the Spoon N1 dampers in his R. 14k front and 16k rear and it's daily driven for the most part. I'm thinking, ****, that's way too harsh for the street. Not so. The dampers in the N1's are so good that the ride is more comfortable than my shitty Tein HR's at 8k front and 6k rear. I was shocked after a ride and a drive in his car.

As for your Zeal question; I thought the B2 was replaced with the B6? . I've never read or heard anything negative about a Zeal set-up.

Good luck.

 

Because the GC/Koni is a cheap & better setup.

I had the B6 until my car was stolen. If I could go back in time, I would have gone the smarter route.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another option in your price range is the T1R coilovers. I think R&D has them on for $995.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have fears of items that have been in the market for only a short while.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On a side note, my friend rolls on the Spoon N1 dampers in his R. 14k front and 16k rear and it's daily driven for the most part. I'm thinking, ****, that's way too harsh for the street. Not so. The dampers in the N1's are so good that the ride is more comfortable than my shitty Tein HR's at 8k front and 6k rear. I was shocked after a ride and a drive in his car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have heard the same things about the Buddy Club RSD. The dampers are so meaty that stiff springs don't feel harsh.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 43! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Because the GC/Koni is a cheap & better setup.

I had the B6 until my car was stolen. If I could go back in time, I would have gone the smarter route.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would go GC/Koni but I just want something that's plug-n-play. I wouldn't know know the first thing about mixing and matching dampers w/springs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CPR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would go GC/Koni but I just want something that's plug-n-play. I wouldn't know know the first thing about mixing and matching dampers w/springs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's actually quite easy. Ground Control has a deal on here for everything you'd need for about $1000USD.

After starting a thread in the suspension section the result was GC/Koni HANDS DOWN. Recommended by track ******, daily drivers, and everyone in between. Tried and true.

It will most likely be the set-up I go with when the time comes. You'll find my thread if you search. Tons o' good info in there.

 

I've had B2s on my car for 2+ years now, good street susp. and decent track susp. I'd purchase them again for a street/track car

Although like others have said if I had it to do over I'd go w/ a Koni/GC setup. They're affordable, you can get exactly what you want and they can be serviced quickly

 

Why not just replace your shocks with Koni Yellows and use stock ITR springs?

It seems that route would be the cheapest, while also fulfilling all of your requirements.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why not just replace your shocks with Koni Yellows and use stock ITR springs?

It seems that route would be the cheapest, while also fulfilling all of your requirements. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think .RJ had this setup on his old hype-R, might wanna PM him and ask his opinion.. And I belive he did a step-by-step tutorial of the install too

 

Zeal B2, with a right ride height setup, they are pretty good setup and pretty comfortable on street.
However, if you set the ride height too low, under highspeed cornering on the back road for around 1/2 an hour, the shocks will start overheating (experience from my friend's civic )

zeal did really good job on the valving for their suspension, with the high spring rate, you won't feel really harsh on street

 

If you go with a typical JDM setup with stiffer springs on the front, the car will be harder to rotate vs stock springs (which end up being basically same rate f/r).

I would either 1) - get Konis and use stock ITR springs for a great ride but better handling than stock, or 2) get Konis and GCs with mild rates ie - 300f/400r or so. Later you up always up the spring rate if you got a diff car to dailydrive.

 

Just for the record here, B2 and B6 are different. The B6 was the next model up from the B2. I have no idea what the current status is as far as things being discontinued or anything. The Koni shocks with stock springs will be your best bet for what you want though, and would be significantly cheaper than any of the other options.

 

Just get Koni shocks. Your springs are not worn out, just most likely the shocks (probably bushings, etc. etc.). If the car is still a little "sloppy" look into replacing suspension bushings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just for the record here, B2 and B6 are different. The B6 was the next model up from the B2. </TD></TR></TABLE>

B2= 38mm shock piston
B6= 42mm shock piston

 

I had an endless setup B6 on a hatch, you won't go back once you have it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had an endless setup B6 on a hatch, you won't go back once you have it
</TD></TR></TABLE>

They're good, but there are better things available.

&lt;--- Former B6 owner.

 

Thanks for all the suggestion fellas, keep them coming.

I forgot the ricer in me also wants a slight drop around 1"-1.25". I know the B2s can't be adjusted without affecting suspension travel so I would rather not touch it at all. How much drop do the B2s have out of the box?

How can a guarantee a specific drop if I go with the Koni/GC combo again w/o affecting suspension travel of the Konis?


Modified by CPR at 4:22 PM 1/16/2006

 

Where are all the Koni/GC proponents to answer my ride height question above?

 

Joo need to get the S6...there is an online sponsor here that is selling them for 1600 FAWKING dollars...Makes me wanna sell my to some rich kid and get a new set.

And those rates are fine for the street...Im driving on 15k rates..its actually a smoother ride then the 12k I had

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1411451

 

I'm already talking to AutoRND and they don't have S6s available for the ITR.

 

1600 bucks for S6s I would trade someone your LCAs...lol