I adjusted my valves today to .2mm intake and exhaust but still get a ticking sound. I cant figure out why somebody please help me thanks.

 

lost motion assemblies making noise. this is normal with a really big cam profile.

 

Is it really and my idle jumps from 800ish-600ish up n down when I hit a stop light but on a cold night it gives me a perfect idle?

 

is you car tuned?
running rich can cause the jumping idle.

 

Your engine will be more noisy with Toda C or other similar big cams, that's just how it is, there will be additional ticking and tapping noises no matter what, that's the price to pay for running big cams. I have the idle at 1000 on my engine also equipped with Toda C's, and it's rock solid, no fluctuations, so I would suggest you try to adjust it up a bit and spend some time on tuning, it took some time to get the idle as good as it is now.

 

Yea its actually tuned but it needs to be retuned. The cams arent adjusted yet and im gonna run bigger headers hopefully some smsp replicas

 

well after my BC3+ was dropped in did the motor make much more ticking noise, and those cams ain't that big as the toda C.
but the valve clearence is bigger the OEM so it all makes sense i guess. and it is not healthy if the engine is totally quiet because then would the valve clearence be too narrow and that could result in burned valves. right?

when should the valves be re adjusted after changing cams,valves and springs?

 

How about the idle? Tommorow I'll post a clip of the idle and see what you guys think..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TodaR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How about the idle? Tommorow I'll post a clip of the idle and see what you guys think.. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Tuning is the best way to fix the idle.

Also consider readjusting and setting your idle with the throttle screw.

But if idle was fine before, then just get that bitch tuned. You won't make good use of those cams without fuel and ignition changes.

 

310 rc injectors, holley fuel pump, aem fpr, jdm headers,vision b pipe, spoon n1 done and done.

 

Here's a video of my ITR idling right after we got the Toda C's installed. This was 2 years ago witha stock motor and AEM Intake, JDM DC 4-1, 5Zigen fireball, and VAFC. This was with all valves in perfect spec. You can hear how loud the valves are at idle...

http://www.kosmodog.com/TodaCIdle.wmv

 

here's my spec c's idle as well:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....5NTQx
(right click and save as)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bradstard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's a video of my ITR idling right after we got the Toda C's installed. This was 2 years ago witha stock motor and AEM Intake, JDM DC 4-1, 5Zigen fireball, and VAFC. This was with all valves in perfect spec. You can hear how loud the valves are at idle...

http://www.kosmodog.com/TodaCIdle.wmv
</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow thats a amazing how good your car idled with C's mine had to be set at about 1000K rpm so it wouldnt jump. but i also had the ticking

 

nice nice anymore this is very helpful hehe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TodaR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">310 rc injectors, holley fuel pump, aem fpr, jdm headers,vision b pipe, spoon n1 done and done.</TD></TR></TABLE>
header not headers... sorry gets annoying after awhile. all you can basically do about the valves is try and make them quieter, they'll ALWAYS make noise no matter what. it's even worse for me running JUN3s and the JUN valve train, super loud and annoying, you'll get past the noise sooner or later and just pass it on as a fact of life, just get the best tune you can for your set up and enjoy the power you get from it, don't worry about the noise

 

i have the same noise as well, the thing is, mine disappears when the car warms up. it's kinda strange

 

same here

 

do you know when your motor was getting rebuilt..
did you have your rocker arm dipped in oil?
i heard if the rocker arm sits outside with no lubrication it could make ticking sound as well

 

so you say that the rocker don't get any lubrication internal? how can this be solved without taking them out of the head?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dipsetbitch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you know when your motor was getting rebuilt..
did you have your rocker arm dipped in oil?
i heard if the rocker arm sits outside with no lubrication it could make ticking sound as well</TD></TR></TABLE>


???

I think you are mixing up rocker arms with LMA's, those like to be submerged in oil if they have been sitting dry for some time. There are oiling holes the rocker shafts, and also do not forget that oil is what makes VTEC work by moving the pistons in the rocker arms.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JUN.R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
header not headers... sorry gets annoying after awhile. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I can almost deal with the plural Header slip from time to time especially after reading a bunch of domestic sites lately.

But <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TodaR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hopefully some smsp replicas </TD></TR></TABLE> Annoyed me a bit more and I'm sure wouldn't make Dave Smile too much, or maybe emulation is the best form of flattery and we should just show him who makes these "knock offs" so he can follow up himself.

If you're gonna mention SMSP then get the real thing, not a knock off.

 

yes sir, defiantely some annoyances going on in here