So some of you have read my previous post about how I just bought an 89 CRX Si, and the shifter was very tight, but after working it in, it's much better, however, I have a new problem:
It seems as if my car is over revving when driving. If I switch gears (especially from 2nd to 3rd) then when I'm driving in 3rd gear, if I push down on the gas, it doesn't pick up the speed, it starts to rev the engine, and the clutch is completely out. Also, if I'm in driving on the expressway, and I'm in 5th gear, then I start slowing down, if I push the clutch completely in and put it to 3rd gear (while the clutch is still in) it begins to grind. I'm not sure what to do. Could the clutch be going? If so, how much does that cost to get fixed? Thanks a lot.

 

Sounds like the clutch is gone..or you need to adjust the clutch cable..

 

So if the clutch is gone, how much would that cost, and if it's an adjustment to the clutch cable, how much would that be?

 

any one?

 

the cable is not that hard to adjust, if you have the service manual for the rex it shows how much free play your pedal should have and the pedal height.. for your first symptom it sounds like your clutch is still partially engaged even when your pedal is all the way out.. easy test: have someone sit in the car and press the clutch pedal see how far it has to move before the shift fork starts to move if it moves as soon as you step on it the cable is out of adjustment there should be some free play as for the 5th to 3rd that could be a number of things.. if adjusting the cable solves your first problem i would say change the fluid maybe even add some synchromesh

 

just wondering, where can i locate the shift fork?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hurleyint1386 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just wondering, where can i locate the shift fork?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's inside the transmission I believe?

Also, clutches aren't that expensive. I payed $180 shipped for my Centerforce stage 2 and another $40 to resurface the flywheel.

p.s. to adjust the clutch cable you twist the little adjustment screw thing that sits on the top of the transmission. Fairly straightforward.

 

well here comes the truth. im going to take it to get inspected in 20 minutes, so i hope everything is ok with it

 

so i got the car inspected, and it passed (some how) and i have $1700 worth of recommendations:
Drain and Fill Manual Transmission Fluid - $89
Cam Shaft Belt - Timing Belt - $365.93
Upper Radiator Hose - $17.61
Lower Radiator Hose - $26.49
Install Radiator Hose - $89
Hose Clamps - $7
UNY Cooling System Maintenance Service - $89.99
Rags/Mats/Cleaners/Lubes - $8.25
Clutch Kit - $258.88
Replace Clutch - $614.40

how would you prioritize this list? and how much of it could i do myself with out paying a rediculous amount of money?

 

your clutch is going and it will cost about 400 cdn

 

where is it recommended i get my clutch replaced? goodyear quoted me at $873.28. i just went to jiffy lube and got my oild changed, topped off the coolant and got my transmission fluid changed for $71 instead of paying $89 for just the transmission fluid.

 

learn how to change it yourself

 

is that something that i could just learn with out screwing up? how difficult is it to do?

 

$800 to install a clutch is insane. Take it to a Honda specific performance shop with a good reputation. You shouldn't be paying more than $300-$350 for that kind of labor.

If you want to really save some money, buy a shop manual and start searching the forums. With a jack and a cheap set of tools, anything is possible.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paopao &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$800 to install a clutch is insane. Take it to a Honda specific performance shop with a good reputation. You shouldn't be paying more than $300-$350 for that kind of labor.

If you want to really save some money, buy a shop manual and start searching the forums. With a jack and a cheap set of tools, anything is possible. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Here is what you should do (or should have done) yourself. Start out by buying a manual for our cars. I got my Chilton's for $15 at Checkers. It told me how to do all of this.

1. how the hell did they quote you for $89 on the tranny drain and refill. All you have to do is pop the drain bolt, pop the fill and put in 1.9 quarts of 10w-40. Cost me a total of $1.99 from Checker Auto Parts for 2 quarts of oil. That guy was trying to rip you the hell off.

2. I'm almost positive rad hoses don't cost that much. Even if they did, $89 to install a radiator hose??? IT TAKES A PAIR OF PLIERS!!!!! (or a screwdriver or socket if you have the hose clamps they recommended, which I also recommend myself.) Jesus H. Christ. After that all you have to do is flush coolant, which is easy, as long as you follow the steps in the book.

3. The clutch is do-able, but requires either a floor jack to suspend the engine while you pop the tranny off, or requires taking the entire engine out (which was what I did so I could see what I was doing for my first clutch replacement). When I replaced my clutch it took me a total of 8 hours, from the time I started taking the engine out to the time I got it running again. That is something that you might have a shop do if you don't feel comfortable doing yourself. Don't overpay though.

4. My Centerforce stage 2 clutch and PP was $180 shipped from Jegs. I would not pay 258 for a stock one. That is just too much. When I had the one done on my 87 land cruiser, it cost me a total of $400 something dollars, and taht included parts AND labor. Find another shop if they want to charge $600 in LABOR to replace a clutch on our little Hondas. Stage 1s and "stock replacements" from Centerforce among other companies are under $100 for most kits.

5. Timing belt is very do-able. The hardest part is getting the crank bolt off, which requires either a very big breaker bar and possibly breaking tools, or now we got smart and got an impact gun, which is good. I would recommend renting an impact gun for the project. All else it requires is lining up the cams and the crank and slipping the belt on. You may need a new tensioner, which is like $20 from Honda (I think). The belt costs around $50.

6. Water pump is one of those "while you're down there and have the crank bolt off" things. That also costs $50, but is definitely worth replacing if you plan on having the car and/or engine a while.

All in all, just remember to properly flush the radiator. I failed to do this even remotely properly after both my engine swap AND my clutch replacement and both times ended up overheating the car and blowing coolant all over the Les Schwab parkinglot and getting made fun of.