new to the forums, have some questions...
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, BC
new to the forums, have some questions...
Please excuse the noobie question but I've just bought my first honda in about a decade and I know virtually nothing about them.
I've got a '89 CRX SI 16V and I'm looking for details on engine specs.
I've seen discussions of which version...B16, D16 but am not sure what I've got and where to check the block?
On the hood sticker it lists engine type as: KHN1.6VFTFO
It's also a canadian car if that makes a difference...
Also curious what the standard bolt ons, mods, tweaks, etc. are for these cars? My other car is a '99 SVT Cobra vert (CRX is a winter dirver) so I'm pretty much in the dark on Honda tips and tricks...
Thanks
I've got a '89 CRX SI 16V and I'm looking for details on engine specs.
I've seen discussions of which version...B16, D16 but am not sure what I've got and where to check the block?
On the hood sticker it lists engine type as: KHN1.6VFTFO
It's also a canadian car if that makes a difference...
Also curious what the standard bolt ons, mods, tweaks, etc. are for these cars? My other car is a '99 SVT Cobra vert (CRX is a winter dirver) so I'm pretty much in the dark on Honda tips and tricks...
Thanks
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,866
Likes: 1
From: nj
Re: new to the forums, have some questions... (macutty)
Look at the front of the block where it meets the tranny,there is a stamp..Should say d16a6 on it..And standard bolt ons are intake,header,exhaust,intake manifold,adjustable cam gear,,etc...Honestly though all that stuff doesnt even really make that big of a difference on a d16..
No tears. Only dreams, now.
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,064
Likes: 1
From: Long Live, Unk., USA
Canadian does make a difference. I thought that the Si was our DX, and that they had the SiR which had the D16A6?
In either case, if it's the D16A6, it's 105hp, and it's just about the same engine that is used in all SOHC hondas for 20 years.
In either case, if it's the D16A6, it's 105hp, and it's just about the same engine that is used in all SOHC hondas for 20 years.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, BC
Thanks for the info. Found the block stamping and you guys got it: D16A6
Next questions would be: At 105hp stock whats resonably attainable on these?
I'm not looking to invest more in this motor than I put in to my Cobra but if you were looking for reliability/performance and had say $1500 to start with what would be my first mods/bolt ons?
I had been looking at:
Header, exhaust
CAI
Intake
MSD ignition (SCI+ 6350 plus cap/rotor/blsater coil)
Any opinions on these? And advice on what order to slap these on if I were not to do them all at once?
The end goal is not for a strip car, more looking for seat-of-the-pants improvements I can drive everyday (an extra 3hp at redline isn't going to help me much...)
Next questions would be: At 105hp stock whats resonably attainable on these?
I'm not looking to invest more in this motor than I put in to my Cobra but if you were looking for reliability/performance and had say $1500 to start with what would be my first mods/bolt ons?
I had been looking at:
Header, exhaust
CAI
Intake
MSD ignition (SCI+ 6350 plus cap/rotor/blsater coil)
Any opinions on these? And advice on what order to slap these on if I were not to do them all at once?
The end goal is not for a strip car, more looking for seat-of-the-pants improvements I can drive everyday (an extra 3hp at redline isn't going to help me much...)
No tears. Only dreams, now.
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,064
Likes: 1
From: Long Live, Unk., USA
Re: (macutty)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by macutty »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the info. Found the block stamping and you guys got it: D16A6
Next questions would be: At 105hp stock whats resonably attainable on these?
I'm not looking to invest more in this motor than I put in to my Cobra but if you were looking for reliability/performance and had say $1500 to start with what would be my first mods/bolt ons?
I had been looking at:
Header, exhaust
CAI
Intake
MSD ignition (SCI+ 6350 plus cap/rotor/blsater coil)
Any opinions on these? And advice on what order to slap these on if I were not to do them all at once?
The end goal is not for a strip car, more looking for seat-of-the-pants improvements I can drive everyday (an extra 3hp at redline isn't going to help me much...)</TD></TR></TABLE>
If I were you, I'd swap the head out to a D16Y8... that's a simple single-cam VTEC head that would net you about 140ish hp at the crank. Add a custom exhaust, simple intake, and you could hit 160ish for about $1500. That is enough to get you a 14.5 at the strip.
To find info about this VTEC head swap, search for "mini-me" as that's the slang term for it. You could run with a cheap header too... it won't hurt.
Anyway, all of these things are relatively easy to do, and fairly cheap... but just remember, if you're looking for big power, a Honda is not the best bet.
Next questions would be: At 105hp stock whats resonably attainable on these?
I'm not looking to invest more in this motor than I put in to my Cobra but if you were looking for reliability/performance and had say $1500 to start with what would be my first mods/bolt ons?
I had been looking at:
Header, exhaust
CAI
Intake
MSD ignition (SCI+ 6350 plus cap/rotor/blsater coil)
Any opinions on these? And advice on what order to slap these on if I were not to do them all at once?
The end goal is not for a strip car, more looking for seat-of-the-pants improvements I can drive everyday (an extra 3hp at redline isn't going to help me much...)</TD></TR></TABLE>
If I were you, I'd swap the head out to a D16Y8... that's a simple single-cam VTEC head that would net you about 140ish hp at the crank. Add a custom exhaust, simple intake, and you could hit 160ish for about $1500. That is enough to get you a 14.5 at the strip.
To find info about this VTEC head swap, search for "mini-me" as that's the slang term for it. You could run with a cheap header too... it won't hurt.
Anyway, all of these things are relatively easy to do, and fairly cheap... but just remember, if you're looking for big power, a Honda is not the best bet.
Trending Topics
No tears. Only dreams, now.
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,064
Likes: 1
From: Long Live, Unk., USA
Re: (macutty)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by macutty »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Being conservative, what kinda power can these bottom ends handle before you start throwing rods and such? (assuming a factory bottom end with ~100k miles?)</TD></TR></TABLE>
100k is just getting broken in man!
The A6 is arguably the strongest honda D series block ever made. They can handle the abuse of a good amount of boost (7-10 psi) without exploding, and I'd say around 230-250 whp is the limit before you beef up the block.
You can put DOHC engines in the car, (the b-series), the new K Series motor (out of the RSX), the H Series (from preludes) etc... it's all possible for what you want to spend.
But back to the D series... it's a great little motor, and if you're good to it, you can run it at 11 or 12:1 compression and a hot cam and squeeze about 170-180hp to the crank out of it.
I think you'll like this article: http://www.hotrod.com/featured....html
It's a monster D series.
Good luck, and don't let the majority of idiots around here put you down. 
100k is just getting broken in man!
The A6 is arguably the strongest honda D series block ever made. They can handle the abuse of a good amount of boost (7-10 psi) without exploding, and I'd say around 230-250 whp is the limit before you beef up the block.
You can put DOHC engines in the car, (the b-series), the new K Series motor (out of the RSX), the H Series (from preludes) etc... it's all possible for what you want to spend.
But back to the D series... it's a great little motor, and if you're good to it, you can run it at 11 or 12:1 compression and a hot cam and squeeze about 170-180hp to the crank out of it.
I think you'll like this article: http://www.hotrod.com/featured....html
It's a monster D series.
Good luck, and don't let the majority of idiots around here put you down.
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,998
Likes: 0
From: tampa sometimes naples, FL
Re: (Speed--Freak)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VashTheStampede »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I were you, I'd swap the head out to a D16Y8... that's a simple single-cam VTEC head that would net you about 140ish hp at the crank. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i would sugest a d16z6 head off of a 92-95 civic or del sol si or ex it is a obd1 swap so it is much easier and inexpensive to wire than the obd2 d16y8 head... go to http://www.rywire.com and they will hook you up with all the wireing you need after you put the head on... they will even sell you a distributor p28 ecu and 4 wire heated 02 sensor
as for 140ish crank hp range is completley wrong you will be lucky to hit 130 hp at the crank and thats on a perfect running motor the stock power on the d16z6 motor is arguably give or take 1 or 2 hp 128hp
and as for what the bottom ends can handle the d16a6 bottom is arguably one of the strongest bottom ends in my oppinion the most ive seen on a stock bottom end was 220whp and that was on a really good tune... you should be safe with 200whp on stock internals (that is my goal with my d15b witch is about the same thing as the mini me swap)
i think VashTheStampede is a little of with his numbers but mostly good information
hope this helps and welcome to the wonderful world of hondas lol
i would sugest a d16z6 head off of a 92-95 civic or del sol si or ex it is a obd1 swap so it is much easier and inexpensive to wire than the obd2 d16y8 head... go to http://www.rywire.com and they will hook you up with all the wireing you need after you put the head on... they will even sell you a distributor p28 ecu and 4 wire heated 02 sensor
as for 140ish crank hp range is completley wrong you will be lucky to hit 130 hp at the crank and thats on a perfect running motor the stock power on the d16z6 motor is arguably give or take 1 or 2 hp 128hp
and as for what the bottom ends can handle the d16a6 bottom is arguably one of the strongest bottom ends in my oppinion the most ive seen on a stock bottom end was 220whp and that was on a really good tune... you should be safe with 200whp on stock internals (that is my goal with my d15b witch is about the same thing as the mini me swap
)i think VashTheStampede is a little of with his numbers but mostly good information
hope this helps and welcome to the wonderful world of hondas lol
No tears. Only dreams, now.
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,064
Likes: 1
From: Long Live, Unk., USA
Re: (jaydeum4lyfe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaydeum4lyfe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would sugest a d16z6 head off of a 92-95 civic or del sol si or ex it is a obd1 swap so it is much easier and inexpensive to wire than the obd2 d16y8 head... go to http://www.rywire.com and they will hook you up with all the wireing you need after you put the head on... they will even sell you a distributor p28 ecu and 4 wire heated 02 sensor
as for 140ish crank hp range is completley wrong you will be lucky to hit 130 hp at the crank and thats on a perfect running motor the stock power on the d16z6 motor is arguably give or take 1 or 2 hp 128hp
and as for what the bottom ends can handle the d16a6 bottom is arguably one of the strongest bottom ends in my oppinion the most ive seen on a stock bottom end was 220whp and that was on a really good tune... you should be safe with 200whp on stock internals (that is my goal with my d15b witch is about the same thing as the mini me swap)
i think VashTheStampede is a little of with his numbers but mostly good information
hope this helps and welcome to the wonderful world of hondas lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't tell the man stuff like this. You really don't know what's going on. Sorry. Any D series head can be made whatever OBD you want it. Hence, a Y8 head can use a 92-95 CX, DX, etc Distributor, and become OBD1. Also, I mentioned the Y8 because they're newer, would have less miles, they have better intakes, larger quench areas, and yield higher compression than a Z6 head, at nearly 11:1. It is true that the Z6 has better ports, but the Y8 will make better numbers all around. User GABSPEED did this awhile back and claimed 130 to the wheels. Hence the "140ish to the crank" comment.
I know I haven't been in here in a couple of years, but the misinformation has grown.
as for 140ish crank hp range is completley wrong you will be lucky to hit 130 hp at the crank and thats on a perfect running motor the stock power on the d16z6 motor is arguably give or take 1 or 2 hp 128hp
and as for what the bottom ends can handle the d16a6 bottom is arguably one of the strongest bottom ends in my oppinion the most ive seen on a stock bottom end was 220whp and that was on a really good tune... you should be safe with 200whp on stock internals (that is my goal with my d15b witch is about the same thing as the mini me swap
)i think VashTheStampede is a little of with his numbers but mostly good information
hope this helps and welcome to the wonderful world of hondas lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't tell the man stuff like this. You really don't know what's going on. Sorry. Any D series head can be made whatever OBD you want it. Hence, a Y8 head can use a 92-95 CX, DX, etc Distributor, and become OBD1. Also, I mentioned the Y8 because they're newer, would have less miles, they have better intakes, larger quench areas, and yield higher compression than a Z6 head, at nearly 11:1. It is true that the Z6 has better ports, but the Y8 will make better numbers all around. User GABSPEED did this awhile back and claimed 130 to the wheels. Hence the "140ish to the crank" comment.
I know I haven't been in here in a couple of years, but the misinformation has grown.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, BC
Thanks for all the info guys...lots of reading/researching to do now.
One more question you guys may be able to help with though:
When I bought the car the woman had said the clutch was fairly new, but after driving it for a couple days it seems more and more likely it's done. The grab is right at the top of the pedal, and I've adjusted the quadrant near the clutch fork for any extra slack and it just won't shift crisply.
That being said, I could now use some advice on clutches. My local Lordco (similar to NAPA in the US) recomended a centerforce as an upgrade.
I don't need anything exotic hear, just something thats going to handle a few bolt-ons without going south every 10k miles. And I also have to take in to account that my 5'4 110lbs girlfriend has to drive this thing regularly.
Maybe I'm paranoid, but the last perf clutch I used was a RAM Kevlar on my '88 5.0 and it was approx 70lbs pressure to get it to the floor....just not sure how these things work in the "Honda" world....
One more question you guys may be able to help with though:
When I bought the car the woman had said the clutch was fairly new, but after driving it for a couple days it seems more and more likely it's done. The grab is right at the top of the pedal, and I've adjusted the quadrant near the clutch fork for any extra slack and it just won't shift crisply.
That being said, I could now use some advice on clutches. My local Lordco (similar to NAPA in the US) recomended a centerforce as an upgrade.
I don't need anything exotic hear, just something thats going to handle a few bolt-ons without going south every 10k miles. And I also have to take in to account that my 5'4 110lbs girlfriend has to drive this thing regularly.
Maybe I'm paranoid, but the last perf clutch I used was a RAM Kevlar on my '88 5.0 and it was approx 70lbs pressure to get it to the floor....just not sure how these things work in the "Honda" world....
No tears. Only dreams, now.
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,064
Likes: 1
From: Long Live, Unk., USA
Re: (macutty)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by macutty »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for all the info guys...lots of reading/researching to do now.
One more question you guys may be able to help with though:
When I bought the car the woman had said the clutch was fairly new, but after driving it for a couple days it seems more and more likely it's done. The grab is right at the top of the pedal, and I've adjusted the quadrant near the clutch fork for any extra slack and it just won't shift crisply.
That being said, I could now use some advice on clutches. My local Lordco (similar to NAPA in the US) recomended a centerforce as an upgrade.
I don't need anything exotic hear, just something thats going to handle a few bolt-ons without going south every 10k miles. And I also have to take in to account that my 5'4 110lbs girlfriend has to drive this thing regularly.
Maybe I'm paranoid, but the last perf clutch I used was a RAM Kevlar on my '88 5.0 and it was approx 70lbs pressure to get it to the floor....just not sure how these things work in the "Honda" world....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Since you're not making serious power, any el-cheapo clutch should work, but you can't go wrong with Centerforce.
One more question you guys may be able to help with though:
When I bought the car the woman had said the clutch was fairly new, but after driving it for a couple days it seems more and more likely it's done. The grab is right at the top of the pedal, and I've adjusted the quadrant near the clutch fork for any extra slack and it just won't shift crisply.
That being said, I could now use some advice on clutches. My local Lordco (similar to NAPA in the US) recomended a centerforce as an upgrade.
I don't need anything exotic hear, just something thats going to handle a few bolt-ons without going south every 10k miles. And I also have to take in to account that my 5'4 110lbs girlfriend has to drive this thing regularly.
Maybe I'm paranoid, but the last perf clutch I used was a RAM Kevlar on my '88 5.0 and it was approx 70lbs pressure to get it to the floor....just not sure how these things work in the "Honda" world....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Since you're not making serious power, any el-cheapo clutch should work, but you can't go wrong with Centerforce.
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,998
Likes: 0
From: tampa sometimes naples, FL
Re: (VashTheStampede)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VashTheStampede »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Don't tell the man stuff like this. You really don't know what's going on. Sorry. Any D series head can be made whatever OBD you want it. Hence, a Y8 head can use a 92-95 CX, DX, etc Distributor, and become OBD1. Also, I mentioned the Y8 because they're newer, would have less miles, they have better intakes, larger quench areas, and yield higher compression than a Z6 head, at nearly 11:1. It is true that the Z6 has better ports, but the Y8 will make better numbers all around. User GABSPEED did this awhile back and claimed 130 to the wheels. Hence the "140ish to the crank" comment.
I know I haven't been in here in a couple of years, but the misinformation has grown.</TD></TR></TABLE>
92-95 cx and dx are not vtec so why would you put those distributors on your y8 head and you never specified the wiring and changing the intake manifold t/b ect. when you say y8 i assume obd2
what is a quench area??? if your talking about the compression chamber if its bigger its gona have lower compression (sorry i dont know the slang) but you are right about the compression the y8 has 9.6:1 and the z6 is 9.2:1 witch is not a big difference at all can be easily achieved for a low price and there are many ways to achieve it
and ask anybody on this site there is no way your friend threw a stock y8 head on his stock a6 block and just got 130 at the wheels lol sorry and even if he did there would be more than 140 at the crank......... you are mistaken and spreading wrong information
Don't tell the man stuff like this. You really don't know what's going on. Sorry. Any D series head can be made whatever OBD you want it. Hence, a Y8 head can use a 92-95 CX, DX, etc Distributor, and become OBD1. Also, I mentioned the Y8 because they're newer, would have less miles, they have better intakes, larger quench areas, and yield higher compression than a Z6 head, at nearly 11:1. It is true that the Z6 has better ports, but the Y8 will make better numbers all around. User GABSPEED did this awhile back and claimed 130 to the wheels. Hence the "140ish to the crank" comment.
I know I haven't been in here in a couple of years, but the misinformation has grown.
</TD></TR></TABLE>92-95 cx and dx are not vtec so why would you put those distributors on your y8 head and you never specified the wiring and changing the intake manifold t/b ect. when you say y8 i assume obd2
what is a quench area??? if your talking about the compression chamber if its bigger its gona have lower compression (sorry i dont know the slang) but you are right about the compression the y8 has 9.6:1 and the z6 is 9.2:1 witch is not a big difference at all can be easily achieved for a low price and there are many ways to achieve it
and ask anybody on this site there is no way your friend threw a stock y8 head on his stock a6 block and just got 130 at the wheels lol sorry and even if he did there would be more than 140 at the crank......... you are mistaken and spreading wrong information
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,998
Likes: 0
From: tampa sometimes naples, FL
Re: (macutty)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by macutty »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It was also suggested that I definately do the flywheel rather than just resurface?? Is this accurate?</TD></TR></TABLE>
as long as you have it apart do it right.. throw a lightened flywheel on there but you dont need a heavy duty clutch or pressure plate with the lightened flywheel it will rev alot faster... kinda like a b-series
as long as you have it apart do it right.. throw a lightened flywheel on there but you dont need a heavy duty clutch or pressure plate with the lightened flywheel it will rev alot faster... kinda like a b-series
No tears. Only dreams, now.
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,064
Likes: 1
From: Long Live, Unk., USA
Re: (jaydeum4lyfe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaydeum4lyfe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">92-95 cx and dx are not vtec so why would you put those distributors on your y8 head and you never specified the wiring and changing the intake manifold t/b ect. when you say y8 i assume obd2
what is a quench area??? if your talking about the compression chamber if its bigger its gona have lower compression (sorry i dont know the slang) but you are right about the compression the y8 has 9.6:1 and the z6 is 9.2:1 witch is not a big difference at all can be easily achieved for a low price and there are many ways to achieve it
and ask anybody on this site there is no way your friend threw a stock y8 head on his stock a6 block and just got 130 at the wheels lol sorry and even if he did there would be more than 140 at the crank......... you are mistaken and spreading wrong information</TD></TR></TABLE>
VTEC has nothing to do with the distributor you moron. What half-assed idiot gave you the idea that it did? Seriously, where in the hell do you get this? It better not have been Honda-Tech, because if it was, then there's even more reason why I gave up when the 05 members like yourself came in here making stupid posts, and wondering how many H22s they can swap into their cars. I swear, I just can't take it. H-T used to be one hell of a resource, and now, it's people that don't know what they're talking about steering otherwise good people down the wrong path. DO SOME GODDAMNED LEARNING!!!
The quench area allows for a better burn, that's why the Y8 is preferable to the Z6 as far as 99% of all applications go. .5 a compression point is a big enough deal for most people... it can determine many things, one of which is a safe octane rating. And once again, I said "140ish" which is my conservative estimate for M4d VT3K y0. Seriously man, there are many, many people that claim over 140 to the crank with a good mini-me. Look around n00b.
Notice my previous warning about stupidity on here? It's happening more and more. Especially with the hair-brained class of 05 on here.
what is a quench area??? if your talking about the compression chamber if its bigger its gona have lower compression (sorry i dont know the slang) but you are right about the compression the y8 has 9.6:1 and the z6 is 9.2:1 witch is not a big difference at all can be easily achieved for a low price and there are many ways to achieve it
and ask anybody on this site there is no way your friend threw a stock y8 head on his stock a6 block and just got 130 at the wheels lol sorry and even if he did there would be more than 140 at the crank......... you are mistaken and spreading wrong information</TD></TR></TABLE>
VTEC has nothing to do with the distributor you moron. What half-assed idiot gave you the idea that it did? Seriously, where in the hell do you get this? It better not have been Honda-Tech, because if it was, then there's even more reason why I gave up when the 05 members like yourself came in here making stupid posts, and wondering how many H22s they can swap into their cars. I swear, I just can't take it. H-T used to be one hell of a resource, and now, it's people that don't know what they're talking about steering otherwise good people down the wrong path. DO SOME GODDAMNED LEARNING!!!
The quench area allows for a better burn, that's why the Y8 is preferable to the Z6 as far as 99% of all applications go. .5 a compression point is a big enough deal for most people... it can determine many things, one of which is a safe octane rating. And once again, I said "140ish" which is my conservative estimate for M4d VT3K y0. Seriously man, there are many, many people that claim over 140 to the crank with a good mini-me. Look around n00b.
Notice my previous warning about stupidity on here? It's happening more and more. Especially with the hair-brained class of 05 on here.
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,998
Likes: 0
From: tampa sometimes naples, FL
Re: (VashTheStampede)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VashTheStampede »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">VTEC has nothing to do with the distributor you moron.</TD></TR></TABLE>
... ok than explain to me why if you go to the parts store and look it up in teh computer the 92-95 civic dx and the 92-95 civic si have different part numbers for the distributors
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VashTheStampede »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The quench area allows for a better burn, that's why the Y8 is preferable to the Z6 as far as 99% of all applications go.</TD></TR></TABLE>
...and that still does not tell me what a quench area is... do you even know waht it is cuz ive never heard of it... im asking you to explain for me
haha and as for the n00b comments ive been on this site for longer than you have i had a membership in 00 when i was 16 and got my first civic hatch and i forgot my password and still cant remember it for the life of me
c'mon im waiting for the y0 m4mm4 jokes next cuz you ran outa **** to back your information up
... ok than explain to me why if you go to the parts store and look it up in teh computer the 92-95 civic dx and the 92-95 civic si have different part numbers for the distributors
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VashTheStampede »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The quench area allows for a better burn, that's why the Y8 is preferable to the Z6 as far as 99% of all applications go.</TD></TR></TABLE>
...and that still does not tell me what a quench area is... do you even know waht it is cuz ive never heard of it... im asking you to explain for me
haha and as for the n00b comments ive been on this site for longer than you have i had a membership in 00 when i was 16 and got my first civic hatch and i forgot my password and still cant remember it for the life of me
c'mon im waiting for the y0 m4mm4 jokes next cuz you ran outa **** to back your information up
No tears. Only dreams, now.
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,064
Likes: 1
From: Long Live, Unk., USA
Re: (jaydeum4lyfe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaydeum4lyfe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... ok than explain to me why if you go to the parts store and look it up in teh computer the 92-95 civic dx and the 92-95 civic si have different part numbers for the distributors
...and that still does not tell me what a quench area is... do you even know waht it is cuz ive never heard of it... im asking you to explain for me
haha and as for the n00b comments ive been on this site for longer than you have i had a membership in 00 when i was 16 and got my first civic hatch and i forgot my password and still cant remember it for the life of me
c'mon im waiting for the y0 m4mm4 jokes next cuz you ran outa **** to back your information up</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're an idiot for not remembering your password. You're just a damn n00b with an excuse. Been there, done that.
Here's an easy to understand explanation:
"Quench, or squish area is typically the flat area on the top of the piston that's almost level with the top of the block deck. It must have a corresponding flat area on the deck surface of the head to qualify as quench.
If you look at a combustion chamber, you will usually see these flat areas, and they will have the volume of the actual combustion chamber between them. When the piston is compressing the mixture, as the piston nears the head, the flat areas on the head and piston come together and force the mixture from those areas to "squish" into the chamber, where the spark plug and burning mixture reside, so you achieve a more complete burn.
The quench area also runs cooler than the rest of the chamber / piston. These lower temperatures are where the "quench" comes from.
When properly designed, the quench areas can have a tremendous effect on the quality of combustion, and allow higher compression ratios, and due to this they are considered "artificial octane" by scientific types.
Bottom line is "properly designed, quench is good".
Now, why would they have different part numbers? BECAUSE ONE IS OBD1 (The 92-95 DX), and THE OTHER IS OBD2 (The Y8)! The OBD1 Z6 dizzy WILL NOT fit a Y8 head because of a notch on the shaft, that's why you need the DX dizzy. Are you too retarded to figure that out?? Come on! C'mon! Just SEARCH you idiot! It's the common way to convert an OBD2 Y8 to OBD1!
Anyway, what was your 00 Member name I may remember you.
...and that still does not tell me what a quench area is... do you even know waht it is cuz ive never heard of it... im asking you to explain for me
haha and as for the n00b comments ive been on this site for longer than you have i had a membership in 00 when i was 16 and got my first civic hatch and i forgot my password and still cant remember it for the life of me
c'mon im waiting for the y0 m4mm4 jokes next cuz you ran outa **** to back your information up</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're an idiot for not remembering your password. You're just a damn n00b with an excuse. Been there, done that.
Here's an easy to understand explanation:
"Quench, or squish area is typically the flat area on the top of the piston that's almost level with the top of the block deck. It must have a corresponding flat area on the deck surface of the head to qualify as quench.
If you look at a combustion chamber, you will usually see these flat areas, and they will have the volume of the actual combustion chamber between them. When the piston is compressing the mixture, as the piston nears the head, the flat areas on the head and piston come together and force the mixture from those areas to "squish" into the chamber, where the spark plug and burning mixture reside, so you achieve a more complete burn.
The quench area also runs cooler than the rest of the chamber / piston. These lower temperatures are where the "quench" comes from.
When properly designed, the quench areas can have a tremendous effect on the quality of combustion, and allow higher compression ratios, and due to this they are considered "artificial octane" by scientific types.
Bottom line is "properly designed, quench is good".
Now, why would they have different part numbers? BECAUSE ONE IS OBD1 (The 92-95 DX), and THE OTHER IS OBD2 (The Y8)! The OBD1 Z6 dizzy WILL NOT fit a Y8 head because of a notch on the shaft, that's why you need the DX dizzy. Are you too retarded to figure that out?? Come on! C'mon! Just SEARCH you idiot! It's the common way to convert an OBD2 Y8 to OBD1!
Anyway, what was your 00 Member name I may remember you.
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,998
Likes: 0
From: tampa sometimes naples, FL
Re: (VashTheStampede)
si0385 ive asked in GDD if you know of a way to get my pw back i would appreciate it becasuse nobody gave me an answer the p/w was stored in my computer when it broke thats why i never got it back and i made a bogus email to get the account to get it back
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaydeum4lyfe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
... ok than explain to me why if you go to the parts store and look it up in teh computer the 92-95 civic dx and the 92-95 civic si have different part numbers for the distributors</TD></TR></TABLE>
there both obd1 and have different part numbers that was my point you said before to put a civic dx or cx dizzy on your y8 head and now just said it wouldint work
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VashTheStampede »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Don't tell the man stuff like this. You really don't know what's going on. Sorry. Any D series head can be made whatever OBD you want it. Hence, a Y8 head can use a 92-95 CX, DX, etc Distributor, and become OBD1. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i have no problem admiting when im wrong and admiting i dont know everything and im the first to want to lear somethign new expecialy with car... but you are wrong on this matter
this is also comming from a guy who sais you can get 160ish hp with an intake and exhaust lol that got by me b4 hahaha
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VashTheStampede »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If I were you, I'd swap the head out to a D16Y8... that's a simple single-cam VTEC head that would net you about 140ish hp at the crank. Add a custom exhaust, simple intake, and you could hit 160ish for about $1500. That is enough to get you a 14.5 at the strip. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaydeum4lyfe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
... ok than explain to me why if you go to the parts store and look it up in teh computer the 92-95 civic dx and the 92-95 civic si have different part numbers for the distributors</TD></TR></TABLE>
there both obd1 and have different part numbers that was my point you said before to put a civic dx or cx dizzy on your y8 head and now just said it wouldint work
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VashTheStampede »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Don't tell the man stuff like this. You really don't know what's going on. Sorry. Any D series head can be made whatever OBD you want it. Hence, a Y8 head can use a 92-95 CX, DX, etc Distributor, and become OBD1. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i have no problem admiting when im wrong and admiting i dont know everything and im the first to want to lear somethign new expecialy with car... but you are wrong on this matter
this is also comming from a guy who sais you can get 160ish hp with an intake and exhaust lol that got by me b4 hahaha
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VashTheStampede »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If I were you, I'd swap the head out to a D16Y8... that's a simple single-cam VTEC head that would net you about 140ish hp at the crank. Add a custom exhaust, simple intake, and you could hit 160ish for about $1500. That is enough to get you a 14.5 at the strip. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No tears. Only dreams, now.
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,064
Likes: 1
From: Long Live, Unk., USA
Re: (jaydeum4lyfe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaydeum4lyfe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">si0385 ive asked in GDD if you know of a way to get my pw back i would appreciate it becasuse nobody gave me an answer the p/w was stored in my computer when it broke thats why i never got it back and i made a bogus email to get the account to get it back
there both obd1 and have different part numbers that was my point you said before to put a civic dx or cx dizzy on your y8 head and now just said it wouldint work
i have no problem admiting when im wrong and admiting i dont know everything and im the first to want to lear somethign new expecialy with car... but you are wrong on this matter
this is also comming from a guy who sais you can get 160ish hp with an intake and exhaust lol that got by me b4 hahaha</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why am I arguing with a ricer?
https://honda-tech.com/zero...70079
It says here that you signed up in 04, and that you have 0 posts.
The DX dizzy will work: Now, why would they have different part numbers? BECAUSE ONE IS OBD1 (The 92-95 DX), and THE OTHER IS OBD2 (The Y8)! The OBD1 Z6 dizzy WILL NOT fit a Y8 head because of a notch on the shaft, that's why you need the DX dizzy. Are you too retarded to figure that out?? Come on! C'mon! Just SEARCH you idiot! It's the common way to convert an OBD2 Y8 to OBD1!
See how I worked that? Decipher it you damned stoner.
The 160 was a typo. I meant 259hp. :*******:
there both obd1 and have different part numbers that was my point you said before to put a civic dx or cx dizzy on your y8 head and now just said it wouldint work
i have no problem admiting when im wrong and admiting i dont know everything and im the first to want to lear somethign new expecialy with car... but you are wrong on this matter
this is also comming from a guy who sais you can get 160ish hp with an intake and exhaust lol that got by me b4 hahaha</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why am I arguing with a ricer?
https://honda-tech.com/zero...70079
It says here that you signed up in 04, and that you have 0 posts.
The DX dizzy will work: Now, why would they have different part numbers? BECAUSE ONE IS OBD1 (The 92-95 DX), and THE OTHER IS OBD2 (The Y8)! The OBD1 Z6 dizzy WILL NOT fit a Y8 head because of a notch on the shaft, that's why you need the DX dizzy. Are you too retarded to figure that out?? Come on! C'mon! Just SEARCH you idiot! It's the common way to convert an OBD2 Y8 to OBD1!
See how I worked that? Decipher it you damned stoner.
The 160 was a typo. I meant 259hp. :*******:
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Silver_Rex
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
19
May 19, 2003 05:04 PM