now before anyone says anything gay bout the fmu, im on a budget so eff off.

i just wanted to know from the poeple who turboed thier car and used an FMU, what was your max boost and and estimate of how much hp you were making thanks.

and do you think it would be ok using injectors from a prelude, i think they are 280, with an fmu.

thanks

 

first of all fmu is used with stock injectors only, 7 -9psi can be done safely, i ran an fmu on my ls motor for almost a year at 7psi and made 185whp. u cant run a bigger injector with an fmu cause u need something to control them at idle which an fmu just works from vaccum from the intake manifold.

 

o ok, and would using the afc/hack be better than fmu, and which is more expensive?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmhonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first of all fmu is used with stock injectors only, 7 -9psi can be done safely, i ran an fmu on my ls motor for almost a year at 7psi and made 185whp. u cant run a bigger injector with an fmu cause u need something to control them at idle which an fmu just works from vaccum from the intake manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>

please do not reply if you do not know the right answeres, i have a vortech supercharger kit on my car, the kit came with a 6:1 fmu and 310 cc RC injectors, my car idles great, im sure there are other forced induction kits that have bigger injectors with fmu's dont qoute me on that one i am only familar with my setup

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97spooncivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> o ok, and would using the afc/hack be better than fmu, and which is more expensive?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The AFC is a little better than an FMU, but not a whole lot better. The average price of an AFC is the same price you would be paying for a chipped P28 and a conversion harness just to let you know.

 

FMU's are gay...

 

i see you post that in every forum that has to do with tuniing. i swear 1000 of your posts are from saying that. thats what i said at the beginning for the forum

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97spooncivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">now before anyone says anything gay bout the fmu, im on a budget so eff off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

your not helping me, your not helping the forum by bumping the post for no reason, so like the quote says, eff off

 

Friend of mine made 455whp with and BEGI FMU, VAFC, DSM 450cc's. All it had was an inlinepro headgasket. Turbo was t3/t67 @ 1.5bar. motor ran strong for many miles.

I myself would never go back to an FMU, but this guy made me a believer lol

 

the way i look at it is........what is more expensive, upgrading from an FMU to an AFC or rebuilding your engine when you blow it up??

I was going to do a VAFCII, but i opted for Crome instead. It is more expensive to convert to OBD1 and tune, but the peace of mind is worth it. My GSR engine will (hopefully) keep running strong because i didn't cheap out on anything in my build.

 

true, but i need to run the fmu for like two or three months before i can upgrade, cuz im on a budget

 

If you have seen me post FMU's are gay 1000 times then you should have learned something in those FMU threads and not had to create another stupid thread about FMU's. If you and every other noob like you would search I wouldn't be such a smart ***. All the answers are here if you would just look. Your never going to learn anything if everybody tells you the answers. Nobody searches these days...

Is this going to be a 12:1 FMU? Personally I would go no more than 5psi (not at all if possible). Even at 5psi the fuel pressure is going to be extremely high (5psi x 12:1 FMU = 60psi + your base fel pressure). I would also try not to drive in boost at all (no racing). Yeah people have ran more, but I don't care. Be nice to your motor.

Before I had my ECU chipped I ran my car for a week with no fuel management. I left the car at about 3-4psi and just tried to stay out of boost. The only thing I could do is retard the dizzy and tricked my car into thinking it was cold all the time so it would run rich by plugging in an extra coolant temp sensor and letting it hang in the engine bay (very ghetto, but free and better than nothing). So yeah I did it for a week, but I wouldn't for 2-3 months like you.

FMU's are still gay...

 

dude, fmu's been around for awhile!

its not the best idea, but it'll get you by untill u can upgrade, and thats not talking bout upgrading to a damn AFC. throw in a High Pressure intank Walbro fuel pump and try to keep the boost low or else u will be asking for trouble.

theres a bunch of us that ran on FMU's for quite awhile and everything was all good. gas mileage gonna really suck on it and u'll go through plugs way quicker, but its all good, it'll get you by untill u can upgrade.

 

I'm aware FMU's have been around for a while, but there is no point in using one with the cheap options we have these days. Getting somebody to chip your ECU won't cost that much.

You don't see a bunch of people running 133mhz computers because they have been around for a while do you? Get with the times man and run some decent fuel management.

 

Just be patient and save up until you can afford some better engine management. It will be worth it in the end. I agree that FMU's are gay. There's just so much that could go wrong. If you still insist on using one you should probably keep your boost at 4 or 5 psi (on a 12:1), and don't abuse your car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedJeff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Friend of mine made 455whp with and BEGI FMU, VAFC, DSM 450cc's. All it had was an inlinepro headgasket. Turbo was t3/t67 @ 1.5bar. motor ran strong for many miles.

I myself would never go back to an FMU, but this guy made me a believer lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm running a similiar setup other than the turbo and made 356whp @ 15 psi - tuned at InlinePro going on 3 years ago. It's a stock internal LS/VTEC running what I am pretty much convinced by now is an indestructible old-school adjustable Cartech FMU.

FMU's are fine if you are on a budget. If you are insane and want to take it to the limit -&gt; with a V-AFC, 12:1 FMU, 440cc's, Holly intank, thicker headgasket, a dyno and some *****....you can make 350whp+ on C16 without a problem. I have done it and seen it done many times on stock internal motors.

But if you do have the money and you are starting from scratch, listen to what everyone else is going to tell you and get some sort of engine management. Although FMU's do work, and have worked for me in 2 cars, there are a lot of people who have had bad luck pushing the limits of a mechanical device - the FMU.

When I did my LS/VTEC I did try and save some loot and had all the parts already, so I read up on InlinePro's setup and gave it a shot (keep in mind this is like over 2 years ago) and have had pretty good luck. The car still runs today and drives fine on the street.

 

Carbs have been around for a long time too, just because its 50 years old doesn't mean its a good choice.

FMU's are horrible because it adds more fuel proportionally for every lb of boost it sees. Your car may run horribly rich through some of your powerband and run lean in other places. You need something to control everything.

Fuel control will make or break your project. I swear to you that you will make a shitload more power on REAL tuning. A FMU might be cheaper now, but look at the power you are losing and look at the potential damage to your engine.