We always hear everyone askin' about the best 'Go' mods, but what do you guys all do for brakes? Are there alot of kits for the s2k? Do you piece them together? does everyone like the stock setup? Lets hear (and see) what you like.

 

stock setup is the best... just upgrade the lines to some SS lines.. and upgrade the pads.. and you're set

 

No need to upgrade the brakes, stock ones are great even for track use. Like Dylon said, just get SS lines and some better pads. The only cars I see needing better brakes are higher hp ones and even most of them will say its not necessary.

 

I'm running stock rotors, stock lines, spoon monocoque forged 4 pot, cobalt gt sports and ate blue.

Stock setup isn't enough on the track if you push it too hard. I went to the track with stock pads, stock fluids, stock lines and spoon calipers....boiled my brake fluid

by the end of the day I had no brakes.

 

Stock set up is fine on the track with upgraded pads and fluids. Who goes on the track with stock pads? You would kill them in day. There are many guys who race Honda Challenge and do well with stock brakes but upgraded pads and lines. Most drivers can barely use the car to its fullest potential in stock form. I do not suggest upgrading brakes (calipers), def not right away or anytime soon

 

SS lines, Motul RBF 600 fluid.

To come: Rotors and Calipers.

 

I want the Brembo or Comptech BBK, same thing. There are some other companies out there to, Rotora, Wilwood.

 

What brake pads would you folks recommend for say daily driving/the odd track day.


Modified by GEN2TEG at 9:53 AM 1/7/2006

 

Endless BBK for me in the future...

 

unless you're tracking and pushing far more than stock power, the stock setup with fluid and pads will suffice. a big brake kit will actually be detimental to your performance otherwise (additional weight in some cases, mass further from the axis of rotation).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mike C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">unless you're tracking and pushing far more than stock power, the stock setup with fluid and pads will suffice. a big brake kit will actually be detimental to your performance otherwise (additional weight in some cases, mass further from the axis of rotation).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Great info.

I am running a virtually stock setup. I've got an AEM cold air, she's lowered on Buddy Club Race Spec dampers, a strut bar here and there but thats it, nothing to the engine. I guess I will stay stock for now.

Thanks again.

 

I got the Wilwood 6 pot BBK, and I can't wait to try it out!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GEN2TEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What brake pads would you folks recommend for say daily driving/the odd track day.


Modified by GEN2TEG at 9:53 AM 1/7/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cobalt GT Sport for street/track use

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GEN2TEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Great info.

I am running a virtually stock setup. I've got an AEM cold air, she's lowered on Buddy Club Race Spec dampers, a strut bar here and there but thats it, nothing to the engine. I guess I will stay stock for now.

Thanks again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah you're totally fine with stock... save your money for better things then again, a bbk is pretty bling so take that in to account if you start overheating the brakes (assuming you have good pads) you should run some ducting... if that doesn't work, it may be time for some bigger rotors, but as has been said above, guys running honda challenge who are going VERY fast are running stock brakes.

i run axxis ultimates for street/autox and carbotech xp9s for the track on my civic... love em both... ate superblue fluid

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nishant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cobalt GT Sport for street/track use</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

yep basically only reason anyone has for better brakes, is track use.

but then when you do need better brakes,
you REALLY REAAALLY need em.
sucks to get a few laps and have your brakes start to loose bite

 

what do upgraded lines do?

 

Provides a more direct feel of the ratio between pedal pressure and braking force.

 

you have driven a S2000, right? How much more braking does it need? If your picky on 60-0 times, go with ceramic-metallic pads and stick with the OEM (or brembo blank) rotors. If your still picky, then get a brake kit, but do NOT get any drilled rotors, ask for blank.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slideways2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Provides a more direct feel of the ratio between pedal pressure and braking force.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it also keep the ratios/pressure constant..... with the rubber lines, they will end up expanding when they get warm/hot... (after heavy braking) ... SS lines don't expand.... thats the main reason you end up losing braking power when on the track with rubber lines.... it gets hot, and expands, and then you lose braking power... ss lines will prevent that..

 

My understanding was that stainless lines give you a firmer pedal feel and does not increase braking performance in any way, hot or cold. Kind of like the effect of a master cylinder brace, it directs all the hydraulic force to the pistons instead of expanding the lines or the firewall/master cylinder.

To counter this flexing you'll just have to push the pedal further.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mike C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">unless you're tracking and pushing far more than stock power, the stock setup with fluid and pads will suffice. a big brake kit will actually be detimental to your performance otherwise (additional weight in some cases, mass further from the axis of rotation).</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not quite so. It really depends on the kit and application. The only thing that can be detrimental to performance would be the flow coming from the master cylinder. Otherwise, most big brake kits are within the same weight range of the stock items.

I've been running the Wilwood kit for years: slotted, directional rotors up front, four pot forged calipers (too many pads to list over the years) and slotted rears. The weight of the four pot Wilwoods comes to around 9.5 pounds lighter than the stock setup. The stock rotors are 15.0lbs. each. The Wilwood rotor and aluminum hat - all assembled is 15.0lbs. each. The weight savings is all in the caliper and mounting bracket itself. This does not change the rotating mass as you suspect, but it does change the unsprung weight, which does a great deal in suspension, turn-in and braking.

The heat drastically decreases with the larger kits. The rotors are only slightly larger. But the heat dissipation is where the big advantage comes in. I've measured these back to back with a pyrometer (digital IR, so not entirely accurate but consistent with testing). Heat does decrease quite a bit. I'd have to go through my notes from years ago to find the data.

For me, a track addict, I dig the big brake setups. I am just hoping for a better rear setup one day which will hook up to the stock e-brake system or else, have a secondary e-brake caliper which would allow a large brake setup in the rear. Vented rotors are really needed back there.

Also, regarding fluids - while it is recommended, it isn't necessary for street-only cars. It helps greatly on the track, not really in autocrosses. In autocrosses and on the street, your brakes do NOT heat up that much. As much as you think you are braking hard, you aren't heating them up and keeping them heated up as much. On the track, the heat goes up, and only seconds, or moments pass before you must get on them again very hard, thus increasing the higher temperatures that are required for the fluid to push in order to keep your brakes working without sponging out.

Points to keep in mind when upgrading the fluid to Motul 600 or ATE Super Blue and the like - the operating temperatures change, as do the pads. It has a higher boiling point, so it can get much hotter. But the downside is due to the suceptability with moisture which creates air pockets in the lines. You must flush the brakes a few times a year to keep them in good shape, or before/after (and sometimes during) track events. Personally, I'd stick with the Ford Heavy Duty. It is cheap and works quite well for the street and track. Boil that over, then upgrade as needed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c17r15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My understanding was that stainless lines give you a firmer pedal feel and does not increase braking performance in any way, hot or cold. Kind of like the effect of a master cylinder brace, it directs all the hydraulic force to the pistons instead of expanding the lines or the firewall/master cylinder.

To counter this flexing you'll just have to push the pedal further.</TD></TR></TABLE>
"Consistent" is the key word. If you are pushing the pedal further, then the lines are bubbling up and you aren't pushing fluid where it needs to go. The stock lines aren't bad at all. You'll notice very little change when upgrading to SS lines, but it will help feel a consistent pedal feel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c17r15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My understanding was that stainless lines give you a firmer pedal feel and does not increase braking performance in any way, hot or cold. Kind of like the effect of a master cylinder brace, it directs all the hydraulic force to the pistons instead of expanding the lines or the firewall/master cylinder.

To counter this flexing you'll just have to push the pedal further.</TD></TR></TABLE>

SS lines keep it constant... while the stock lines (rubber) are not constant.. casue the hotter they get the softer they get and then there's more flex... which will make the feel different.. and in return eventually decrease braking performance (but the decrease is more on the driver)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by papa5murf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it also keep the ratios/pressure constant..... with the rubber lines, they will end up expanding when they get warm/hot... (after heavy braking) ... SS lines don't expand.... thats the main reason you end up losing braking power when on the track with rubber lines.... it gets hot, and expands, and then you lose braking power... ss lines will prevent that..</TD></TR></TABLE>

^^With that said, you could risk vapor lock if your fluid boils and it has no room to expand (SS lines). When I stepped up to SS lines, I also changed to Motul RBF600.