HAving a stock b20 with basic bolt-ons (I/H/E) and maybe camshafts. How would it run in an EK hatch? Or should I go with GSR? I was thinking about B20vtec, but afraid of the frankenstein setup.

Think it'll run somewhere in the mid-14's?

 

b20 isnt much i've felt a b20 with an exhaust in an ek it was pretty torquey but thats about it

 

So pretty much b18c is better off eh?

 

go with the gsr if your not willing to try a b20v.

 

I ran 14.2 @ 99. B20vtec, 84.5mm 11.3 Wiseco, stock b16 head, im, tb, 270 rc injectors, Injen CAI, stock gsr header, crappy crunch beat exhaust. Only launching at 1.5k-2k. Shitty camber-out Kumho, didn't even use tires to gain best 60ft. I have bad mounts... This is on full interior 96 Integra GSR.

My friend with 4dr GSR, ran 13.8(slicks). Dyno at 199 hp, 150 trq. Stock gsr head, stock B20z, type r cams, skunk2 im, dc 4-1 header, greddy sp2.


Get B20vtec for overall power, B18C1 is fun too though.

 

i have a stock b20b in a 95ex coupe runs very good
the tq is there and power is there, for the money you cant beat that.
(b20b 450.00)

 

Can anyone post their 1/4 mile time with their B20 motor (non-vtec)? Thanx.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mushvroom &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">afraid of the frankenstein setup.
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I would go with the B20vtec just because of thel power an torque it makes, they can be very dependable motors when they are built right

If youre going to be building any motor it doesnt matter if it is a Frankenstein, the dependability is in the builder

 

keeping both motors stock with the same bolt ons, a b20 will make about 10 less hp but 10 more tq... depends on what kinda driving style you like.

for the price difference you can make a **** ton more power with a b20 engine though. using hmotorsonline pricing on longblocks 649 for b20 compared to 1800 for b18c thats 1150 bux difference. for that kinda money you save you could get a vtec head swap with R valvetrain or a set of nonvtec cams, pistons, rods, valvesprings

 

i was thinking about just having ab20 motor with mods.

 

I had a JDM B20B with a Si tranny and ran a 14.34. I also had 14 inch M/T Slicks too.

 

B20b is alright in a EK but would be more powerful of course if it was turbo-charged . . B20z is actually what i like to perfer if u your planning on adding a V-TEC head since its compression is higher and good for all-motor . . a GS-R engine (B18c5) is reliable tho in both ways, then already has a valve timing head . . good also for turboing and is reliable overall.

EDIT: B20z2 in a EK here in a EK ran low 14's . . . this is where i live tho . . temperatures were around 40 - 50 degrees . .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S o C l o s e &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B20b is alright in a EK but would be more powerful of course if it was turbo-charged . . B20z is actually what i like to perfer if u your planning on adding a V-TEC head since its compression is higher and good for all-motor . . a GS-R engine (B18c5) is reliable tho in both ways, then already has a valve timing head . . good also for turboing and is reliable overall.

EDIT: B20z2 in a EK here in a EK ran low 14's . . . this is where i live tho . . temperatures were around 40 - 50 degrees . .</TD></TR></TABLE>
the gsr is a b18c1 or b18c(p72 head) in japan for the sir-g integra.

b18c5= usdm type-r
b18c(pr3 head)= jdm type-r

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S o C l o s e &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> B20z is actually what i like to perfer if u your planning on adding a V-TEC head since its compression is higher and good for all-motor . . a GS-R engine (B18c5) is reliable tho in both ways, then already has a valve timing head . . good also for turboing and is reliable overall.

EDIT: B20z2 in a EK here in a EK ran low 14's . . . this is where i live tho . . temperatures were around 40 - 50 degrees . .</TD></TR></TABLE>
The B20 pistons do not have the clearances for the Vtec valves so they will probably click, and the B20 has low compression, if you want to squeeze more power out of it with a vtec head you should go with high compression forged pistons that have the proper cuts for the valve clearances. And if you are going to put a Turbo on a motor then you would face spending more money and much more hassle with tuning, and temperature does not play as much of a factor as altitude and air quality of the area

for example: it is about 30 degrees in tahoe right now, but the air is extremely thin and makes it harder for your car to breathe and therefor it runs like **** and you will get a crappy track time

IMO: go with a B20, it will give you options later down the road, you can put a vtec head on it, turbo the stock b20, or go non-vtec and spray nitrous, no matter what you will have a great platform to build from that will give you alot of torque

 

Guess I will be going to get a B20. Get some light mods, i/h/e.maybe look for some cams. thanx.