Right story so far...

Just changed clutch and flywheel on my siR, and ive just completed a service on my car...

Changed:-

Engine Oil + Filter
Gearbox Oil
Brake Fluid
Engine Coolant

1- The battery on the car was flat so i jumped it off my mums 206 and it started fine, but even when the car was up to running temp, it didnt drop below 3k?

2- Went to put the car into reverse, but it wouldn't go into gear and would only crunch.

3- Adjusted the clutch cable and now it will go into all gears, but only if i don't compress the clutch all the way to the floor.

4- Drove the car up the road 100m and back, and then the engine light came on and the car wouldn't rev over 3.5k (limp mode).

So basically i hate my car after working on it for nion 2 weeks and it just f**k up even more.

Possibly because the flywheel is 10lb lighter than standard it revving to high as its used to the old flywheel weight? Maybe the clutch cable needs fine adjusting, im not sure, maybe my O2 sensors are pooped???

Im just so down at the mo with my car, and im hoping you have the kindness to throw any helpful tips in my direction...

Thanks for your time,

Ryan

 

for #1, run the car w/ the radiator cap off and let the air out of the system...you have a butt load of air in there now...let it run for about 10 mins.

was the tranny you put in there mint?

keep playing w/ the cable adjustment

 

Ive bleed the system straight through mate as i actually took the rad completely off.

I put a brand new fly n clutch on which were both obviously in mint condition.

And i think that there probably is fine tuning need for the clutch.

Cheers for your input,

Ryan

 

also what code is the car throwing? check and see how many times the ecu light flashes

 

Also,make sure the battery is holding a charge
and the alternator is working properly..

I have seen cases where a bad alternator caused a fast idle condition..
PS>It should go into gear a lot easier when proper idle has been obtained.

 

just double check all fluids:
coolant
oil
trans fluid

then check all the electrical plugs under the hood

and everything should be ok after that!

 

Thanks for all the replies lads.

I think i need a new battery thats for sure, maybe thats making my car rev high tryin to gain charge off the alt?

Ill check all fluids in the morning as its just gone 1am over here in the UK!

Ill find out the codes tomorrow when i check the fluids...

Thanks once again,

Ryan

 

Have you tried adjusting the idle with the idle control screw at all?

It's on the throttle body, copper color.
If the idle doesn't bounce up and down, this should work fine.

A dead battery can (usually will) cause all sorts of weird power problems. Just like a bad ground will. Your ECU could sense something weird, or maybe it just doesn't get enough juice/bad grounding, and it'll throw you a code.

The ECU is grounded directly through the battery on atleast 1 point.

CRXes are notorious for refusing to go into reverse. Reverse isn't synchro'd.
Try putting it in 1st gear first, than reverse. I do that -ALWAYS-.

Do this, than we'll see what's really up.

 

Also check your grounds if that hasn't already been covered. You might have disconnected one getting tranny out.
HTH
chris

 

Really good input lads, muchos appreciated!

Just off outside now to check the codes

Ryan

 

So far today...

I went outside and jumped my car off my mums again... No codes appeared, no high revs, did stall a few times due to unknown reasons while idling (idle control valve?) Engine went to normal operating tempreature and fan kicked in. I adjusted the clutch cable a small bit and i can now fully compress the clutch and it will go into every gear no probs, but theres still some un-needed play at the top which i will need a mate to help me adjust (me sitting in the car, and him adjust the cable till its perfect).

I took the car for a short drive up the road and all was well until i came to brake. There seems to be a knocking noise from the rear n/s wheel when i brake.

The car overall feels really nice, and revs up really quickly now

Ive ordered 2 new O2 bosses and i hope these will help with the smooth idle im looking for (the wiring from the current bosses is shocking, maybe that needs replacing too?). If this still doesn't help, maybe a new idle control valve will be the answer...

Oh, one more thing.

When driving down the road with the front bumper and bonnet off, the tempreature guague dropped to just above the bottom marker... Is this due to all the cold air getting to my engine, or is this another problem?

The needle did raise back to just below half way when stationary for 5mins...

Well im off to go and clean myself up for the fun train ride back to Norwich...

From a rather confused,

Ryan

 

The temp sensor is really inaccurate. But that big a difference should not happen.
It might be going bad, or you might have a bad ground.

Again, bad grounds cause weird problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SETI20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The temp sensor is really inaccurate. But that big a difference should not happen.
It might be going bad, or you might have a bad ground.

Again, bad grounds cause weird problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did your car operate fine before you worked on it??? If so, something happened between then and now to cause the problem. Check your work for any loose wires, loose connections etc. Check your coolant again for air pockets (burp it)Don't just start throwing a lot of parts at the car, they didn't just break because you replaced the flywheel and serviced it.
HTH
chris