i was told that it messed up my valves and mabey my head on account that it is a 0 interferrence engine so if you can list some parts that will and probley need so i can get an estiment on how much its gonna cost

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm_92_accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was told that it messed up my valves and mabey my head on account that it is a 0 interferrence engine so if you can list some parts that will and probley need so i can get an estiment on how much its gonna cost</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whoever told you that is trippin'! You lucked out big time man!!! F series is a non-interference engine...especially since you don't have VTEC. But why'd you wait so long is the question?

Far as replacement...

I'm familiar with my 5th gen but the list should be the same. When you pop off the timing belt its always a good idea to replace the water pump, and since you gotta drain the coolant (or most of it) and its winter flush the coolant, and if needed replace thermostat/hoses. Replace balance shaft belt and if you're really endeverous all the seals as well. Make sure you clean up all the remains of your old timing belt too. Might replace your other belts to since you gotta take them off anyways...

 

It will be hard to tell exactly what is damaged, until you remove the head. Could have scarred the cylinder walls and pistons. How many miles did the belt have on it?

 

At the bare minimum, you're going to have to do one of two things to get a better idea of what you're facing.
1) Throw a timing belt back on so once the cams properly phased, you can perform a compression test. Any low readings, you've got damage....
2) Back off all the Cam Follower Adjusters (so that there are no valves being held open) and perform a leak down test. Applying compressed air thru the spark plug hole, and listen for Air leaks (Indicates a bent valve).
Once you determine what (if any) cylinders are damaged, you can start running an estimate of probable repairs.
You've got to find out what you're dealing with b4 you can start talking about estimates.

P

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLKFLSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It will be hard to tell exactly what is damaged, until you remove the head. Could have scarred the cylinder walls and pistons. How many miles did the belt have on it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

What would have scarred the cylinder walls? Even if he bent valves at worst he would crack a piston and damage his valve seats. Its not an interference head. Even the F22B1 is fine 99% of the time unless by a freak occurrence VTEC is engaged and you're at high RPM. Even then I've only read of one case of bent valves. Am I right P, I'm not gonna push my luck and find out but it is one advantage of SOHC.

That's one reason I hated my old DOHC eclipse so much, it was a bad (and expensive) car to learn on. I got done replacing 20 some valves and then six months later had to do it again when the balance shaft belt broke (I was a dumb kid) and wrapped around the crank sprocket. It almost became a clearance head though, the indentions in my pistons were so deep my dad couldn't believe I didn't crack through them! Also note to self: don't try to use the starter to break the crank bolt loose...especially when the timing belt is off DOH! For the record that was a LONG LONG time ago.

 

Schmitey, I hate to rain on your parade, but it is an interference engine. The first thing that needs to be done is a check for bent valves.

 

Alright learn something new every day. Then what the hell was I reading about that a Honda mechanic was saying that yes it is an interference engine but the chances of bending valves are low? I could very well be wrong but I woulda sworn it was an F series. Its sure as hell not gonna be an H with DOHC! All I know is MOST SOHC engines of various makes/models are not interference, that's why the DOHC's are higher compression (to the point that most have notches in the pistons so they clear the valves). Not arguing just I know I read about it somewhere here on H-T.

 

211,000 miles on the car probley 105,000 on timing belt

 

the engine is a f22a1 sry 4 leaving it out

 

What is often overlooked is T.B.O. (Time Between Overhaul (Or replacement). Rubber products are just as vulnerable to degradation from ozone, dry rot and just the constant stress of being under tension. You could have a 12 year old car with 50,000 miles and still be a candidate for a broken belt.

P

 

i did beat my car ex. grabbing 2nd all the time 4 at least 1,500 miles then the tranny went out and replaced the clutch and i hade 2 drive it good 2 wearin the clutch and then it went out when i was going about 35 mph

 

i will put in my 2 cents worth,,,,,,,,
# 1 you cannot go only by the miles when replacing a timing belt ,,,,if you live in a hot climate , the belt will deterirate sooner , another thing that people seem to forget is wether you drive the car mostly in town or highways,,,,keep in mind that if you drive mostly in town your timing belt has a lot more miles than the odemeter states,, everytime you are idling at a stop lite the belt still spins but miles will not add up on the odemeter,,
# 2 ,, the chances of bending valves are slim to none ..
# 3 do as it was suggested by P_Adams.... Back off all the Cam Follower Adjusters (so that there are no valves being held open) and perform a leak down test. Applying compressed air thru the spark plug hole, and listen for Air leaks (Indicates a bent valve).

but instead of listening to air leaks , hook up a gauge that way you can see the amount of leakage on each cylinder .