Hello.. I have a 1992 Honda Accord 4 dr sedan DX... I had a problem with overheating, i for some reason thought just a leak, then diagnosed it as a faulty water pump... As i am sure some of u know getting to the water pump on an accord like mine is no picnic. I am an amatuier/noob mechanic... I finally did the job, and now my car won't start... The problem im thinking is that i didnt have it at TDC when i shut off the car. I might have the timing off but would this cause the car to not even start? Also i must tell you that my car overheated so bad that 2 sets of plug wires were melted inside my valve cover... That was a real pain removing those, but the job is done and my car still wont start. Im real nervous, because a "cocky" friend of mine who is a mechanic told me over the phone that i seized the engine, end of story, not even giving me any options. I just hope my car's engine isnt completely fubar. I must also tell you that i drove my car just fine with the melted spark plug wires and the overheating problem, its when i took the wires out and noticed the mess and wasnt able to get perfect connection with the plugs again. Any help or knowledge/suggestions would be very helpful to me... Thank you. The firing order is correct, and the distributor/rotor might be faqued but im unsure... A mechanic told me to check the spark plugs for spark to see if that is the problem... so i guess he is just trying to diagnose the problems. Thanks again for any help that you can give me.

 

Is the engine cranking? Are you getting spark?

 

have you checked your valve clearances?

 

man you f-ed up by the sounds of things you had better re-do the t-belt (TDC) and whatever else you might have done maybe it would be better for you to just hire someone?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cantaffordaccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man you f-ed up by the sounds of things you had better re-do the t-belt (TDC) and whatever else you might have done maybe it would be better for you to just hire someone?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ignore this clown! It would still try to crank and probably still run if the marks were off a tooth. F22 is a single cam non-clearence engine unless you break something running high RPM's in VTEC. Haven't pressed my luck (and prefer not to) to find out but that's what I read...

So lets get this straight. You overheated the everliving **** out of you car (yeah you did f-up there!). But it was still running. My question is was it running after it cooled off (melted the spark plug wires)? Also was there coolant still in the blasted thing?

Are you getting good power to the starter (is it turning over, couldn't tell from your write up)? Lights are on and they dimm when you turn the key? Do you hear the starter click? If answer to all these are yes then you probably got problems! If you've got a manual you can try push starting BUT FEATHER THE CLUTCH SLOWLY or you risk twisting axles/breaking stuff if it is seized.

I don't know at what temperature things start to melt but I wouldn't give up hope JUST yet. Also how long did you run it like this (not to mention WHY?!?)? My biggest question is was it running after you let it cool off????

If it is turning over check your spark, but if you didn't check your marks when putting the belt back on that's a no brainer! If its turning over at all then its something small and minor and you're relatively in the clear...(but should still be kicking yourself for overheating the **** out of your car). Might check compression too...not sure if overheating like that could cause a burnt out valve (we'll worry about that later)?!?


Modified by Schmitey at 10:10 PM 12/30/2005

 

The order of things:
1) Recheck Camshaft timing.
Crank Sprocket mark should be at 12 o'clock (Straight up) It's located even with the woodruff key.
Camshaft sprocket has two marks. Both line up horizontally with the top surface of the head.
2) With #1 cylinder at TDC (Top Dead Center) / Compression, make sure distributor rotor is pointing at #1 cylinder Plug Wire.
3) Compression test. (Checking for cylinder damage)
4) Oil Change. If not done since overheat episode, old oil is probably the consistency of Mo-lasses.
5) fresh plugs / wires

Let me know where you stand after this.

P

 

if u didnt line up the engine to TDC when u took it off, there's really no knowing how far u are off.

i would suggest that you line up the crank to TDC and check the cam to see if they are infact lined up.

and dependign on how far off you are, they car may not start.

 

yo mattbandelt give us an update!

 

# 1 ....to chk if engine is seized,,, remove spark plugs, get a 19mm socket and a long extension and a rachet and turn engine manually, if it turns then it is not seized up,,,, if you cannot turn it then you are screwed //

# 2 to chk if your cam timing is correct, and assuming engine is not seized,, turn engine manually , and chk when the crank is at top dead by looking at the white mark on the flywheel ...when on top dead, remove valve cover, remove upper t-belt cover , make sure cam pulley up mark is in the upward position, .there are 2 notches on the inner part of the pulley , if cam timing is ok they have to be lined up with the head,, if they are ,cam timing is ok, if not lined up , cam timing is off,, you need to reset it,,,,,depends how much off it is car wil not start.........

 

where are ou man??

we need an update...

 

I know its a old post. But upon reading it I was able to fix my problem. This may also help someone who reads it.

I changed my timing belt and car would not start. It just kept back firing while tumbling.
My fix was the distributor was not set back in correct. I just had to spin the shaft half a turn and pop it right back in and it worked.

Hope this helps someone as it had helped me...

 

So you can put these distributors in 180 out. Good to know.

 

Something that can make your car turn and not start is a bad ignitor inside the distributor or a bad coil. Just throwing this in for someone who may read. I was driving my car when it stalled. Would then turn but not start. Bad ignitor.

 

Thats odd.. i was un-aware that those distributors were able to be put in 180 out. i know that on the 4th gen civics you can put the rotor 180 out. but not the distributor.