pistons
OEM JDM DC2 Integra TypeR P73 piston set. Includes wristpins only. Available in standard size only. this is off of a site the pricre is 160.. i dont think its a bad price but im still a rookie when it come to building a block up ..my car is a 90 ls teg.. also what rods should i use ... or any advice on parts from expeirince.. thanx for any help or ideas... (my first teg and im lovin it especially comming from about 5 sohc non vtec's whith just bolt ons..)
I had to change my crankshaft when I put gsr pistons in my car. You can find a used set of pistons and rods for about $100 if you look around. Then get a set of oem rod bearings. If you do that you basically have a gsr block
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GsrTurboCRX88 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had to change my crankshaft when I put gsr pistons in my car. You can find a used set of pistons and rods for about $100 if you look around. Then get a set of oem rod bearings. If you do that you basically have a gsr block</TD></TR></TABLE>
why in the world would you want to do that? building a gsr block using an LS bare block and GSR internals and running an LS head is pointless and dumb. you'll only be losing power that way.
anyway, for the creater of this post...you may want to take your block apart before you buy those pistons. Depending upon the condition of your block, you may need to get some slightly oversized pistons(81.5mm). also, if you're just changing out the pistons you won't need to change the rods unless you wanted to. but do check for piston to valve clearance since it's been awhile since i've actually done some work on a honda.
why in the world would you want to do that? building a gsr block using an LS bare block and GSR internals and running an LS head is pointless and dumb. you'll only be losing power that way.
anyway, for the creater of this post...you may want to take your block apart before you buy those pistons. Depending upon the condition of your block, you may need to get some slightly oversized pistons(81.5mm). also, if you're just changing out the pistons you won't need to change the rods unless you wanted to. but do check for piston to valve clearance since it's been awhile since i've actually done some work on a honda.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by a2dadamm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so the use of stock rods with aftermarkey pistons is okay or is it a smarter move to swap them out my motor has about 160k on it ??????</TD></TR></TABLE>
it really depends on what application you want to run. Forced induction or Natural Aspirated. if you are or think you are going to boost it or feed it nitrous in the future then i would change the rods as well. if you're gonna stick to all motor or not gonna even race it then i would just stick with the stock rods and use your money on something else.
it really depends on what application you want to run. Forced induction or Natural Aspirated. if you are or think you are going to boost it or feed it nitrous in the future then i would change the rods as well. if you're gonna stick to all motor or not gonna even race it then i would just stick with the stock rods and use your money on something else.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GsrTurboCRX88 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where in my post does it say I have a ls head? I agree that is pointless. I have a gsr head for the record
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sorry, i just assumed that you had an ls head since you didn't mention it. on the another note, switching in a gsr crank, rods, and pistons into an LS block and adding a gsr head is pretty pointless as well if you're never gonna rev past 8.5k. you'll just be losing power by doing so. i've taken my LS motors to 8.5k many times with no problems. however i none were completely stock and valvetrain work is always a must.
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sorry, i just assumed that you had an ls head since you didn't mention it. on the another note, switching in a gsr crank, rods, and pistons into an LS block and adding a gsr head is pretty pointless as well if you're never gonna rev past 8.5k. you'll just be losing power by doing so. i've taken my LS motors to 8.5k many times with no problems. however i none were completely stock and valvetrain work is always a must.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GsrTurboCRX88 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So are you saying that an LS block is better than a gsr block?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, in no way is the LS block better than a TRUE GSR block. the GSR block has a girdle and oil squirters which truely do a great job of maintaining the motor under extreme conditions. but by just swaping in GSR internals into an LS block, you'll gain nothing out of it, and only lose power due to the shorter stroke. with either the longer stroke of an LS or a shorter stroke of the GSR, you'll be fine revving it to 8k no problem assuming that you built it correctly. that's why i didn't understand you wanting to install GSR internals in an LS block.
no, in no way is the LS block better than a TRUE GSR block. the GSR block has a girdle and oil squirters which truely do a great job of maintaining the motor under extreme conditions. but by just swaping in GSR internals into an LS block, you'll gain nothing out of it, and only lose power due to the shorter stroke. with either the longer stroke of an LS or a shorter stroke of the GSR, you'll be fine revving it to 8k no problem assuming that you built it correctly. that's why i didn't understand you wanting to install GSR internals in an LS block.
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