i know this question has been asked before but what do you guys think about boost and a type r with the compression being the way it is, ive saved up the money to do cams and valve springs retainers and injectors but boost seems to be where its at for the money, i can piece together a nice turbo kit for the same price and make way more power

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by botlebruiser &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know this question has been asked before</TD></TR></TABLE>

So why not search for your answer?

The FAQ's thread has tons of useful information in it.

 

When done correctly and efficiently boost is by no means cheap BTW.

 

Personally I'd leave the B18C5 naturally aspirated. They're relatively expensive to replace. That's the short answer.

If you want to go turbo I'd look for a dime a dozen B18B or another car.

 

ive built a couple of motors so i know how much it cost to do an all motor build and buy the time you build a motor to have a power output like a stock turbo motor its much more expensive to do an all motor build to put out 260 to 280 wheel horsepower its very very very expensive, im talkin about doing a turbo kit with injectors intake mani and a nice tuning job

 

i know they are very expensive to replace thats kinda what im worried about

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by botlebruiser &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know they are very expensive to replace thats kinda what im worried about</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't boost unless you have money IN THE BANK or under your matress for a new motor.

Don't boost unless you have another daily driver.

Don't boost if you like A/C or power steering.

Don't boost if you like resale value.

Don't boost if you don't like the smell of burning oil... always.

Don't boost if you want to do track days/HPDE's.

Don't boost if you have to pass emissions testing.

 

well that kinda puts it in perspective

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Don't boost unless you have money IN THE BANK or under your matress for a new motor.

Don't boost unless you have another daily driver.

Don't boost if you like A/C or power steering.

Don't boost if you like resale value.

Don't boost if you don't like the smell of burning oil... always.

Don't boost if you want to do track days/HPDE's.

Don't boost if you have to pass emissions testing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And thats coming from a turbo guy too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Don't boost unless you have money IN THE BANK or under your matress for a new motor.

Don't boost unless you have another daily driver.

Don't boost if you like A/C or power steering.

Don't boost if you like resale value.

Don't boost if you don't like the smell of burning oil... always.

Don't boost if you want to do track days/HPDE's.

Don't boost if you have to pass emissions testing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

 

If you're always smelling burning oil with your turbo setup, something is wrong and you shouldn't be owning/driving something like that in the first place.

A properly setup turbo C5 motor will run flawless during HPDE's, I've done it. Again, if the engine is setup properly, you will have no need for "extra money IN THE BANK or under your matress" for a new one. Although, it is nice to have some extra cash "just in case".

Everything else about the daily driver, power steering, a/c, resale value (just need to find the right buyer), and emissions is true for the most part.

Just some food for thought ...

Ed

 

I wont really agree with anything stated above. But I will agree on keeping money on the side. Stuff will break as will any set up. Just be prepared for the worse and hope for the best.
I beat the **** out of mine when it was stock and it ran great. Tuning is key

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yellow blur &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're always smelling burning oil with your turbo setup, something is wrong and you shouldn't be owning/driving something like that in the first place. </TD></TR></TABLE>



Cracked ringlands will do it.

Dr Pooface: "Spot the oil leak", or "Fire!!! Fire!!!"
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1222643

Chris F: How to fix oil temps of 300F? HPDE Turbo ITR
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1263283

Dr Pooface: "400hp in three easy steps", or "How to remain single forever."
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1362080

Chris F: Fire! Crap!
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1303756

Dr Pooface: Compression test results, burning oil questions
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1002639

Chris F: NA is best (replacing turbo manifold)
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1277522

Chris F: How to deal with liberal amount of oil in catchcan?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1243949

Chris F: Compression test is kinda bad.. It was too good to last
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1011301

Haliewa-Brando: 1997 ITR#122..... Is Dead.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1024619

Or, you could search for "wtf" in the Forced Induction forum.

» Search Results

Your search for wtf returned 56 results.

 

sounds like maybe more trouble than its worth maybe it will be better to just do some cams and and the usual head work

 

If I had to do it all over again, I would have yanked the b18c5, sold it, then built another motor for boost. Boosting 10Psig for 4 years got a little old even though I did make 295whp...coincidentally, I'm currently building a GSR block for my ITR..

 

im boosting my ITR here within the next couple weeks, it all depends how you drive it and take care of it. my friend had his boosted for 3 yrs, just fine untill he sold the car.

also it prolly helps to have a beater, good thing i only drive the car a couple times a month

just get it properly tune, run a thicker headgasket, and drive it like a normal car and it should be fine

main problem why they dont last is, ppl get boost happy and always have to constantly drive in boost, if you got a heavy foot, they you shouldnt go this route

 

I ran the car with 7lbs for over a year. The last few months I upped it to 9 and 11 for low and high boost settings. I never burned one drop of oil. I guess its luck of the draw or something...

Ed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yellow blur &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ran the car with 7lbs for over a year. The last few months I upped it to 9 and 11 for low and high boost settings. I never burned one drop of oil. I guess its luck of the draw or something...

Ed</TD></TR></TABLE>

My original ringlands lasted for about 4 HPDE's (9 months maybe). I'm sure it would have been longer on the street, but at an HPDE you spend a couple hours at WOT.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My original ringlands lasted for about 4 HPDE's (9 months maybe). I'm sure it would have been longer on the street, but at an HPDE you spend a couple hours at WOT. </TD></TR></TABLE>

But, Gawd Damned Joor fast

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But, Gawd Damned Joor fast </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's even fast with 3 cylinders!

 

This is yellow blur on my work account.

Anyway,

Yeah, my setup lasted for about I'd say 10-20 drag passes, and 1 HPDE, and over a years worth of street abuse (highway abuse that is ).

Oil coolers are a must if you are planning on boosting a Honda engine.

Ed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Don't boost unless you have money IN THE BANK or under your matress for a new motor.

Don't boost unless you have another daily driver.

Don't boost if you like A/C or power steering.

Don't boost if you like resale value.

Don't boost if you don't like the smell of burning oil... always.

Don't boost if you want to do track days/HPDE's.

Don't boost if you have to pass emissions testing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x3

however... you can still pass emmisions w/ turbo and have a/c and power steering, and not burn oil..

but the first 2 are very important. don't boost if you can't afford to rebuild and its best to have a backup car..

but.. you're on the right track, you're better of doing a mild turbo setup vs tons of modifications n/a.. boost is not cheap, but you have so many options for aftermarket support to make your honda fast, its easy to maintain, repair and rebuilds require less parts for a 4 cylinder.

if your motor isn't fully built, for best reliability.. bisdes proper fuel and tuning, just push less hp on daily basis.. low 200's with stock, mid to high 200's with forged internals stock sleeves.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EvasiveMotorsports.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is yellow blur on my work account. </TD></TR></TABLE>



haha, just kidding.

I agree you can keep your A/C and power steering. I melted the upper line on my A/C a couple of times, and ended up ditching the whole thing to make room for a 3" downpipe. Later when I was on my second turbo, third turbo exhaust housing and 2nd exhaust manifold, I removed the power steering because it was, well, in the way.

(I cracked my first manifold, and burned out the bearings in my first turbo, and had to get another housing when switching from a GReddy mani to Lovefab, plus I got the wrong A/R anyway.)

vtec.dc2: Emissions can be tough. If you live in a place that requires you to keep OBDII, E-Manage was one of the only/best tuning options, and it sucked. I switched to Hondata, and I'll probably end up pulling my car off the streets when emissions is due in July this year. If you're shooting for 225-250 HP, low boost turbo setup or S/C, I suppose it could happen with the stock ECU in place (VAFC hack, emanage or otherwise)

-Chris

 

I think a nice NA build is sexy, but FI is the way to go if you just want power. It's not cheap, and it's not easy, and it's not reliable...but it'll get you power. And it sounds cool

 

i will be boosting my r in a week or two and for the amount of money you will be putting. boosting are smarter route for more power than all motor. also its not like you will be keeping the car for 10 years or so.

realibility. are you putting 300 miles a day. and most r owner drive there car couple times a week anyway.
boosting is cheaper way to make power than n/a besides nos.
you can keep the a/c, power steering, etc if you are only looking to run max of 8psi (more than enough power) anything higher is different story.