my objective was to get the new axles put in and new trans fluid.

Well............

when working on the passagner side of the vehicle, when removing the balljoint from the steering nuckle, the Cotter pin was broke off inside the castel nut, therfore getting the bolt off was hard (im a dumbass! )
I should NOT have tryed to get the bolt off without getting the cotter pin out FIRST!
Anyway,
Got done doing the axle, time to put the 17MM cast nut Back on the lower control arm balljoint stud,

the damn thing WONT GO BACK ON!

I got it threaded one thread, after that the damn thing just kept spinning due to the ball....

So I took some plyers and squeesed as hard as I could and got the castle nut treaded 2 more times, so its threaded mabey 2 or 3 times and thats it!

Do I have to replace the WHOLE lower control arm? Or can I just simply take the boot off the balljoint, and some how pop the ball out and replace it with a spare I have laying around?

anyway, I got home safely, But i am VERY afraid to go at high speeds now, the 2 or 3 thread probably wouldnt be able to take it!

Im screwed<,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

You can replace just the balljoint. Make sure you use a new cotter pin once you've got it changed.

 

how? And what is the reason to use a cotter pin anyway?

 

I didnt even put them back in the TIE rod ends............

 

can you see the thread strip? or the balljoint just keeps spinning when you try to tighten it up?

 

there is no way of getting the bolt back on! it just spinds, cuz the threads are stipped, making the ball move, like its suppos to,

anyway, I hope to go replacing that ball stud thingy is easy, how may I ask? I looked in the manual, it doesnt say how to replace (JUST) the ball, it tells me how to replace the WHOLE damn control arm or steering knuckle. Id rather NOT do all that ****............

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zx2gotboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how? And what is the reason to use a cotter pin anyway? </TD></TR></TABLE>

So the bolts dont fall off and you crash and die.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zx2gotboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there is no way of getting the bolt back on! it just spinds, cuz the threads are stipped, making the ball move, like its suppos to,

anyway, I hope to go replacing that ball stud thingy is easy, how may I ask? I looked in the manual, it doesnt say how to replace (JUST) the ball, it tells me how to replace the WHOLE damn control arm or steering knuckle. Id rather NOT do all that ****............</TD></TR></TABLE>

Have a friend stand on top of the brake rotor will all of his weight. Then tighten it.

 

ok, ^ that way will stop the ball from moving?

Thank You!!

If I can get the ball to stop moving, I can probably get the rest of the threads to tighten up!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zx2gotboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, ^ that way will stop the ball from moving?

Thank You!!

If I can get the ball to stop moving, I can probably get the rest of the threads to tighten up! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes it will definatly help. Make sure hes a fat expletive too.

 

if anything, How can I remove the old balljoint?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zx2gotboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if anything, How can I remove the old balljoint? </TD></TR></TABLE>

You'll have to take the knuckle off to make it easier. There should be a C clip at the bottom of the knucke/top of ball joint that you'll have to pry off. Then take a BFH and bash that **** out from the bottom. You will also have to hammer the new one in, unless you have a nice press.

 

O, ok, so to save me a lil trouble, Bash the hell out the stud till it pops out the top?

 

You can fix it. I had this problem when I was doing my RHD conversion. When they took the front hubs the clip I ordered they smacked the bottom of the ball joint and damaged the threads. You couldn't even get the nut to start. I went to the parts house and bought a die and simply held the top where there are no threads and re-threaded it once it got past the bad part I chased the threads to clean them out. Nut went on by hand and no problems since. As for the cotter pin problem I had to deal with that as well. The broke it off even with the hole. Chasing that out with a small drill bit was the cure.

As for driving it.....DON'T!!!!!! Park it until you have fixed it. If it breaks or comes out your wheel can and will turn either all the way in or al the way out. Turning in is not near as bad as out. Turns in you can still manage to somewhat control the car. Turn out and you can be off the road in a ditch upside down drowning. Or if you are in the left lane you can go into the car next to you....Or if .... or if.....

Bottom line.____________________________________

It's not worth risking your life or the lives of others.

E.Honda