does an B18a block have spots to put oil squirters and a gsr girdle?
im building an ls/vtec.
does the b18a block have a place to put oil squirters in? and can I also bolt in a gsr girdle?
so what im asking, are the holes already there to put these pieces in, and if so, is it a direct fit?
i hear if the gsr girdle fits, i would have to use a gsr oil pan, and oil pickup/windage tray(i think that is what it is called).
does the b18a block have a place to put oil squirters in? and can I also bolt in a gsr girdle?
so what im asking, are the holes already there to put these pieces in, and if so, is it a direct fit?
i hear if the gsr girdle fits, i would have to use a gsr oil pan, and oil pickup/windage tray(i think that is what it is called).
dude if you want all of that then buy a itr/gsr block other wise just build the ls block the right way and you will be fine with the oil squirters and block girdle unless you plan on reving the holy **** out your motor you don't need it
uhhh...no.
you can put oil squirters in.
people have been doing it for ages now.
the thing you have to watch for is with some pistons like the Wisecos, the skirt may come very close to hitting the squirter and depending on the crank you use, the counterweight may also touch it if you don't place the squirter in the correct place. Wiseco does warn you about which piston may have problems with squirter clearance due to the length of the skirt.
You can always move the squirter over by 10 thou and get the clearance.
you can put oil squirters in.
people have been doing it for ages now.
the thing you have to watch for is with some pistons like the Wisecos, the skirt may come very close to hitting the squirter and depending on the crank you use, the counterweight may also touch it if you don't place the squirter in the correct place. Wiseco does warn you about which piston may have problems with squirter clearance due to the length of the skirt.
You can always move the squirter over by 10 thou and get the clearance.
so the gsr girdle is a go.
but if I use the oil squirters with an LS Crank in an LS Block, with LS rods and JDM ITR pistons, will they clear?
Ive read there is holes for them, but they are not threaded. then ive heard otherwise.
just want to clear things up.
but if I use the oil squirters with an LS Crank in an LS Block, with LS rods and JDM ITR pistons, will they clear?
Ive read there is holes for them, but they are not threaded. then ive heard otherwise.
just want to clear things up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> from my old friend Mike K
All Parts are Listed by OEM Honda part number:
GS-R Block Stiffener -- 11950-P73-J00
GS-R Main Bolt(6) -- 90007-PAA-T01
GS-R Oil Pickup -- 15220-P72-000
GS-R Windage Tray -- 11221-P72-000
GS-R Oil Pan -- 11200-P72-010
** NOTE ** The GS-R girdle is NOT a direct bolt-in. The reason being is that the LS #3 cap is taller than the rest. You need to modify either the GS-R girdle or the center main cap on the LS to make it fit. This can be compensated for two ways
METHOD #1
Remove the center main cap, have it milled down until it stands flush with the other 4 caps. After doing this you WILL need to align bore the crank journals and replace the bearings. Nice if you plan on having the motor out, or giving the block to a machine shop to have your work done. Although by doing it this way you are weakening the stronger of the 2 pieces (Girdle vs Main Cap)
Also, you will have to shave off the casting marks that are on-top of the # 2 and 4 caps. These are arrows that tell you which way the caps face when installed. You can file these off yourself with a course file. Be wary of metal shavings.
METHOD #2
Have the center "leg" on the GS-R girdle milled down to accommodate for the taller center cap. This is the way I did it. For reference the exact amount that need to be milled off is 14mm.
Also for this Mod you'll need to mill a bit off the ends too. On either side there is a what apprears to be a dowel hole just behind the bolts. 2mm will need to be taken down from these.
Step 1)
Remove the LS Oil pan, Oil pick up, and Windage tray. Be sure to keep your gaskets for the oil pan and oil pick b/c they can be re-used.
Step 2)
Un-bolt the 3 center main caps. The Caps are doweled in place. Place the GS-R girdle over the main caps and bolt it back together using the 6 GS-R bolts. Torque to 49 ft/lbs.
Step 3)
Re-assemble the rest of the bottom-end using the GS-R components.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Torque Down Sequence:
caps 1 & 5 torque to 56 lb ft
caps 2,3,4 (i.e. the girdle) torque to 49 lb ft
All Parts are Listed by OEM Honda part number:
GS-R Block Stiffener -- 11950-P73-J00
GS-R Main Bolt(6) -- 90007-PAA-T01
GS-R Oil Pickup -- 15220-P72-000
GS-R Windage Tray -- 11221-P72-000
GS-R Oil Pan -- 11200-P72-010
** NOTE ** The GS-R girdle is NOT a direct bolt-in. The reason being is that the LS #3 cap is taller than the rest. You need to modify either the GS-R girdle or the center main cap on the LS to make it fit. This can be compensated for two ways
METHOD #1
Remove the center main cap, have it milled down until it stands flush with the other 4 caps. After doing this you WILL need to align bore the crank journals and replace the bearings. Nice if you plan on having the motor out, or giving the block to a machine shop to have your work done. Although by doing it this way you are weakening the stronger of the 2 pieces (Girdle vs Main Cap)
Also, you will have to shave off the casting marks that are on-top of the # 2 and 4 caps. These are arrows that tell you which way the caps face when installed. You can file these off yourself with a course file. Be wary of metal shavings.
METHOD #2
Have the center "leg" on the GS-R girdle milled down to accommodate for the taller center cap. This is the way I did it. For reference the exact amount that need to be milled off is 14mm.
Also for this Mod you'll need to mill a bit off the ends too. On either side there is a what apprears to be a dowel hole just behind the bolts. 2mm will need to be taken down from these.
Step 1)
Remove the LS Oil pan, Oil pick up, and Windage tray. Be sure to keep your gaskets for the oil pan and oil pick b/c they can be re-used.
Step 2)
Un-bolt the 3 center main caps. The Caps are doweled in place. Place the GS-R girdle over the main caps and bolt it back together using the 6 GS-R bolts. Torque to 49 ft/lbs.
Step 3)
Re-assemble the rest of the bottom-end using the GS-R components.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Torque Down Sequence:
caps 1 & 5 torque to 56 lb ft
caps 2,3,4 (i.e. the girdle) torque to 49 lb ft
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I was searching and found this, I have a ls block that I am building up. how would I go about adding squirters? the ls block does not have holes as stated above, no mark or anything for a oil squirters, has anyone done this before?
There are no bosses in the LS block for the squirters.The oil galley is in the same approximate location as the GSR.The squirters are designed to keep the stock cast pistons cool.Not required for aftermarket forged pistons.Squirters add to oil windage power losses.Many more people plug the ones that are there than add them when they aren't.
Glenn
Glenn
I figured if they werent important, honda would never put them in there newer high reving engines, I dont see any reason to plug them. anything to make a high performance engine last longer, or run cooler make sense to me. and plugging them dont. I wiish I could add them to my ls block.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NJIN BUILDR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Squirters add to oil windage power losses. Many more people plug the ones that are there than add them when they aren't.
Glenn</TD></TR></TABLE>
Shhh! That's a secret.
<------------------------------oil squirters plugged.
Glenn</TD></TR></TABLE>
Shhh! That's a secret.
<------------------------------oil squirters plugged.
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1quickhatch
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