Polyurethane Suspension Bushings?
for the money invested, these are possibly the best mod on a car as old as an EF.
however, installation is very labor intensive... so unless you like hours spent working on the car and have a press to remove/install bushings with, get a quote from a decent shop that can handle install for you.
keep in mind, too, that if you don't already have a capable shock/spring or coilover setup, you'll sure want one more after installing urethane bushings
however, installation is very labor intensive... so unless you like hours spent working on the car and have a press to remove/install bushings with, get a quote from a decent shop that can handle install for you.
keep in mind, too, that if you don't already have a capable shock/spring or coilover setup, you'll sure want one more after installing urethane bushings
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clemsonsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">however, installation is very labor intensive... so unless you like hours spent working on the car and have a press to remove/install bushings with, get a quote from a decent shop that can handle install for you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
werd, total PITA.
You *can* remove the bushings without a press. To do that, clamp the metal center in a vice and twist the control arm around until the center breaks free of the rubber, then pry it out. put a hacksaw blade through the hole, and cut through the rubber and sleeve in two places, about 90* apart. Then use a chisel to pound the sleeve out, starting with the 90* section. Takes 10-15 min. per bushing.
I would recomend a shop. Remove the rear and front LCA's and the front UCA mounts, take them to a shop and have them press them out. Take them home and install the urethane bushings with a vice.
Make sure you have spare bolts around for all 3 rear LCA mounting points, because they are likely to break. Do not install the tie rod or ball joint dust boots, but you may want to replace the tie rods, ball joints, and rear sway bar endlinks at the same time (use the boots that come with the new parts, not the ES boots).
You will also want to pick up the sway bar bushings, since the ES kit does not come with them, autozone's lookup catalog was correct for me, and they arrived at the store in about 3 days.
I am currently doing mine, and also installed the ES TA bushing, traction bars, and EX spindles/brakes. I installed Zerk grease fittings in all bushing locations too (I hate squeaks!).
werd, total PITA.
You *can* remove the bushings without a press. To do that, clamp the metal center in a vice and twist the control arm around until the center breaks free of the rubber, then pry it out. put a hacksaw blade through the hole, and cut through the rubber and sleeve in two places, about 90* apart. Then use a chisel to pound the sleeve out, starting with the 90* section. Takes 10-15 min. per bushing.
I would recomend a shop. Remove the rear and front LCA's and the front UCA mounts, take them to a shop and have them press them out. Take them home and install the urethane bushings with a vice.
Make sure you have spare bolts around for all 3 rear LCA mounting points, because they are likely to break. Do not install the tie rod or ball joint dust boots, but you may want to replace the tie rods, ball joints, and rear sway bar endlinks at the same time (use the boots that come with the new parts, not the ES boots).
You will also want to pick up the sway bar bushings, since the ES kit does not come with them, autozone's lookup catalog was correct for me, and they arrived at the store in about 3 days.
I am currently doing mine, and also installed the ES TA bushing, traction bars, and EX spindles/brakes. I installed Zerk grease fittings in all bushing locations too (I hate squeaks!).
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krustindumm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
werd, total PITA.
You *can* remove the bushings without a press. To do that, clamp the metal center in a vice and twist the control arm around until the center breaks free of the rubber, then pry it out. put a hacksaw blade through the hole, and cut through the rubber and sleeve in two places, about 90* apart. Then use a chisel to pound the sleeve out, starting with the 90* section. Takes 10-15 min. per bushing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
same method i used to get my rear LCA bushings out except that i used a torch to burn the rubber out instead of a clamp and elbow grease. just makes some wicked black smoke...f*%k the ozone!
werd, total PITA.
You *can* remove the bushings without a press. To do that, clamp the metal center in a vice and twist the control arm around until the center breaks free of the rubber, then pry it out. put a hacksaw blade through the hole, and cut through the rubber and sleeve in two places, about 90* apart. Then use a chisel to pound the sleeve out, starting with the 90* section. Takes 10-15 min. per bushing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
same method i used to get my rear LCA bushings out except that i used a torch to burn the rubber out instead of a clamp and elbow grease. just makes some wicked black smoke...f*%k the ozone!
like stated above the poly urethane bushings are the best bang for your buck on these cars, I have every single bushing on my car poly, it's absolutely awesome, Fortunately i had access to a press when I did mine, but it is possible to take out the old bushings using a vice and some old sockets, the only bushing I had to torch was the trailing arm becuase you need to keep the outer metal shell. I probably spent a week or so doing this so expect your car to be down for awhile. Once you're done you'll really appreciate it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SETI20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.summitracing.com
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Jegs also has them
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Jegs also has them
A buddy of mine also has a full 88-91 civic/crx ES black set since he's changing plans.
The best way is to press them out. The cheapest way is to torch them out, then cut the sleeve at two spots (careful not to cut the arm at all), set the sleeve over a socket the same size, and pound it out.
What I found odd was that after the bushing install it drove straight as an arrow, and the steering wheel was centered too. Beforehand my car pulled a bit to the left, with the wheel pointing a bit left (to go straight).
The best way is to press them out. The cheapest way is to torch them out, then cut the sleeve at two spots (careful not to cut the arm at all), set the sleeve over a socket the same size, and pound it out.
What I found odd was that after the bushing install it drove straight as an arrow, and the steering wheel was centered too. Beforehand my car pulled a bit to the left, with the wheel pointing a bit left (to go straight).
I just did this on my 89crx. This is alot of work. I did it without a press. I used a drill with a small bit and drilled around the inner sleeve enough to remove it with vice grips, than I hack sawed the outer sleeves and knocked them out with a chisel. I ended up going a little into a few of the arms, so be careful if you decide to use this method. Most shops I talked to would not do this work. It was worth it, the car handles and rides much better.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
hackish
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
34
Jul 11, 2006 08:05 PM
litterbox
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
17
Apr 29, 2005 08:55 AM





