Ok so I have a few extra wires to add to the loom (A4 VTEC solenoid, A17 IAB, D6 VTEC oil pressure, D3 Knock sensor) if I want to use my stock CRX harness or otherwise I can do a straight plug and play using the h22 wiring harness but then lose functionality of my speedo etc. What I basically want to know is that are most of the colours of wires used by honda fairly standardised? i.e. colour of injector wires are the same whether it be a OBD0 or OBD1 car.

Reason for asking is that I want to use the stock harness but need to use alot of the connectrs off the h22 harness. So say I come across 4 wires of a certain colour attached to a plug, can I just find the same coloured wires on the h22 harness chop the connector off then solder this to the CRX harness?

Is there a website that displays the wiring colours and what they correspond to? Is this shown in helms manuals? If so i'll purchase one.

Thanks

 

bump?

 

H22-Crx hf/si harness obd0-obd1 jumper harness will be the easiest way took me a lil less then 8 hours to do, soldering is no fun. Makes it easy to just connect the vtec sol, vtec pres., knock sensor and 4 wire O2 sensor with the jumper. HF came with EGR so I was able just to change out plugs to the h22. Most of the work is extending wires. There is about 2-3 plugs that may be different on the crx harness that the H22 will require. Basically you will see when the time comes and you just make a run to your local junkyard. Yes obd1 usdm or jdm h22 is low impedence injectors so all injector clips and wires are compatiable.

 

This is correct, you need to extend, and add many wires, and a 0-1 jumper is the best thing to use. If you try to use a h22a harness, you are going to hate yourself for using it!! Its a nightmare. Bump for rywire doing your harness I have done many crx to h22a wiring jobs, and they have turned out great.

 

ya i been using the obd0 1 jumper for a little over a year now by far one of the easier ways to just run those wire and extend the rest

 

Ive got the OBD0 - OBD1 conversion harness. This I shall be using. For the other additional wires is it best to connect directly to the pin's or tap into the wires?

Is there any websites or manuals out there that have diagrams showing the wires going to the ECU/colours/pin numbers?

Thanks guys

 

when i did my i repined mine none of that cut wire **** i would just search around here for ecu pin outs

 

With a OBD0 to OBD1 conversion harness, you should have all your new sensors in the pigtail of the ECU Jumper. There are very few wires that would need repinning at the OBD0 Side. If you had a B16 in there running OBD0 before, you would repin your ELD wire.. that's all really unless you're using EGR equipment.

As for the engine harness plugs themselves, get a wiring diagram for your CRX, and a wiring diagram for the H22. Some colors are different, don't trust them to be the same.

CRX Workshop Manual
http://www.norcalcrx.org/library/ (on the left)

OBD1 pinout in Excel form, Thanks KatMan
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/w...t.zip

Sorry, no H22 diagram on hand, but Katmans ECU pinout should help, the colors at the ECU match the colors at the sensor (less the ground and power wires that don't come from the ECU)

 

"Colour"? you're from the UK

The way to do a hybrid swap is to always use the engine harness that comes with the chassis.

You shouldnt have to use too many connectors off of the H harness - OBD0-OBD1 are fairly similar (with regaurds to colours). The only connectors you should have to change are the ones that are required whenever you do an obd0-obd1 conversion like on any other conversion - the H22A is no different than a GSR accept you have to extend some wires and the injectors use a resistor box (just like an EF anyway)

- Use a jumper harness and do an obd0-obd1 conversion as per instructions but keep the injector resistor box and corresponding wiring intact.
-plug in some (crx harnes) connectors (use wiring diagrams to know the right locations) into the h22, i always start under the distributer
- cut off the injector/iac part of the h22 harness and wire it into the CRX harness
- cut off the alternator part of the h22 harness and wire it into the CRX harness
- extend any other wiring as needed

for the speedo, dont worry about the obd1 junk - take it out of the tranny. You can get a 'obd0' style assembly that uses a cable from an older accord. (89?).. I beleive mine is held on by only 1 of 2 bolts but it fits perfect and has given me 0 problems.

#1 rule, take your time wiring. If you make a mess of it you are going to have 10x the work down the road - post specific questions in this thread if you need any extra help.

also, if anyone hasnt noticed, Hasport is advertising their H22A kit on their website now. http://www.hasport.com

 

what is the best crx to get for H22 swap HF,SI,DX ??????????? for wiring and everything

 

hf lightest, mpfi, and egr ready

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by md88hfcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hf lightest, mpfi, and egr ready</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by md88hfcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hf lightest, mpfi, and egr ready</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

who cares if it's an Si, YOU HAVE AN H22 lol..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">who cares if it's an Si, YOU HAVE AN H22 lol..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Amen lol.

 

How can I be sure my CRX has an EGR valve? The car is a 1989 Euro spec d16a9 with PM7 ECU.

I think I know the valve in question but if someone could post a pic up that would be great or just provide a link.

I definitely have MPFI and I have the resistor box

http://www.bestnet.eclipse.co.uk/nickwebsite.htm


The pig tail coming from my OBD0-OBD1 harness looks like it is for SAFC/VAFC/Emanage? How can I tell, unfortunately I bought it a long while ago and cant remember who sold it to me, think it was rywire or boomslang.

Thanks for your help guys, the wiring is gonna be the PITA about this swap.

 

http://www.bestnet.eclipse.co.uk/ignition.htm

The link above has a pic of the conversion harness, OBD0-OBD1

 

Why are you so worried about the EGR? - it is a useless peice of junk. There are some expensive solinoids related to the EGR that you probably wont get with the swap as well. Chances are you'll want to get rid of the P13 ECU down the road for a P28 anyway..

The P28 does not require an EGR or knock sensor, which is nice for tuning down the road. (keep it simple!)

If I were you, I'd get the motor running with the P13 first, dont mind the EGR error code. After you work out any wiring bugs than switch to an 'H22 chipped' P28.

Remeber, tuning is what seperates the men from the boys. If you want a custom setup to work well and still maintain a OEM Honda based EMS (Hondata, Uberdata, Crome, Neptune) than you'll need a P28 because the P13 ECU is not as "hacked"(lack of a better word) as a P28.

 

I have a manual p13 and an auto as the h22a Ive got is auto but im converting it.
I wont worry about the EGR so much then. Is it something to do with emissions?!?

I have a chipped p28 setup for hondata a place called http://www.cplracing.co.uk shall be doing the tuning. They recommended using the h22 wring harness and not the d16 harness but I want to keep it looking relatively stock from the inside and not have extra tacho/speeds's etc

So how do I wire the VTEC in? Is that complicated? 1 wire I gather

 

Is there an issue with the h22 having a dual butterfly valve? Basically the D series harness can only cater for opening one butterfly valve and the h22 has 2. This is the way I understand it, can anyone confirm this?

I hear a skunk2 racing manifold will get rid of this problem?? But dont want to waste money if it can be done for cheaper.

Thanks

 

i dont know anything about the H22 dual butterflies but in other cars such as the MR2, people remove the butterflies all together and supposedly it helps to improve performance a little bit... i dont know what kind of affect it would have on the H22 since it is N/A... i would, however, invest in a skunk2 manifold as it would help improve top end flow a lot and give you a pretty big bump in power
-Josh

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djnikko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a manual p13 and an auto as the h22a Ive got is auto but im converting it.
I wont worry about the EGR so much then. Is it something to do with emissions?!?

I have a chipped p28 setup for hondata a place called http://www.cplracing.co.uk shall be doing the tuning. They recommended using the h22 wring harness and not the d16 harness but I want to keep it looking relatively stock from the inside and not have extra tacho/speeds's etc

So how do I wire the VTEC in? Is that complicated? 1 wire I gather

</TD></TR></TABLE>

use the d-series harness or you will regret it.. i would question doing business with that shop for their suggestion of using an H22 harness.. obviously they do not have much experience in doing hybrid honda swaps.

EGR has everything to do with emmisions and nothing to do with performance. you'll find a lot of threads about the EGR int he prelude forums.

VTEC is more than 1 wire.. but if you get an conversion harness it will be a peice of cake as they will probably have wires labled for vtec. putting an OBD1 GSR into a CRX is exactly the same as an H22 as far as VTEC wiring goes - you'll find tons of info on that too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djnikko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there an issue with the h22 having a dual butterfly valve? Basically the D series harness can only cater for opening one butterfly valve and the h22 has 2. This is the way I understand it, can anyone confirm this?

I hear a skunk2 racing manifold will get rid of this problem?? But dont want to waste money if it can be done for cheaper.

Thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>



There is an "Intake Control Solenoid" (Air Intake) and a "Bypass Control Solenoids" aka Intake Air Bypass, IAB for short (Air Intake Manifold).

My suggestion is to not worry about either of them, you probably wont get the intake one with the swap anyway and everyone disables their IAB anyway. If you dont hook them up they will remain open all the time, I'm sure you'll find instructions on how to completely remove them as well..

also

Circled are the extra solenoids you'll need for the EGR

So yeah, scratch the EGR, IAB and ICS and knock sensor(KS only if you use the p28) to keep the swap simple and ready for performance upgrades in the future!

As for the skunk 2 intake mani - people with EGs cannot use it unless they modify their firewalls so that means that in a CRX it will be significantly worse.

 

Please PM with any questions and I can answer them all! Yes skunk2 manifold will not fit unless runners are cut and rewelded. Which is a lengthy process that may not be worth it. Also a lot of people actually like the stock manifold and the secondary butterflys I know I do.

I did not run the IAB box mine was cracked and I kinda didnt want to bolt it up or deal with the hassel sooo.... You can either not hook up the secondaries and it will be open at all times which you will lose bottom end torque and power and you will notice bogging more at low speeds... I then used a solenoid I had laying around and hooked the Air boost valve I think it is which is the butterly control to the secondaries and hooked it up to the solenoid and hooked up the solenoid to my vtec. So when vtec kicks on my secondaries are open and you go vrrrroooooom!!!

 

This is a great thread! 10 years and still has useful information.