cold air intake bypass valve
Im about to install a cold-air intake system in my 01 accord... the bypass valves that you have to buy seperate...does anyone know how they work? are they truly needed? or just in really wet climates?
The bypass valve that is marketed for C.A.I. systems serves but one (1) purpose; to keep water from being inhaled (su..ked) into the engine thru the C.A.I. system should you decide to participate in Submarine Races or do a re-enactment of Hurricane Katrina... 
If your absolutely, positively sure you'll never go anywhere near a three (3) foot puddle, fore-go the bypass valve.
they work by a simple process of allowing the bypass to open if it senses a vacuum in the C.A.I inlet tube (water's hard to pull up) and draws air from elsewhere.
P

If your absolutely, positively sure you'll never go anywhere near a three (3) foot puddle, fore-go the bypass valve.
they work by a simple process of allowing the bypass to open if it senses a vacuum in the C.A.I inlet tube (water's hard to pull up) and draws air from elsewhere.
P
first off.... a bypass valve is a great thing to add to your CAI because they can save your engine from hydro lock and they are relatively inexpensive. The bypass valve stops the suction of water into your engine from the cone filter. If water gets into your tubing and into your engine it could hyrdo lock and that would be very bad. The valve stops that from happening. I would truly recommend getting a bypass valve for your car. they are truly worth it.
bypass valves are kinda odd.....
frankly 99% of the people who run them on their CAI (myself included) will never ever need them. hoewever, alsmot monthly, i see someone come on here and talk about how they hydrolocked with their STOCK air box in place...yea yea, they might be dumb, but its just a little bit of insurance.
frankly 99% of the people who run them on their CAI (myself included) will never ever need them. hoewever, alsmot monthly, i see someone come on here and talk about how they hydrolocked with their STOCK air box in place...yea yea, they might be dumb, but its just a little bit of insurance.
$50 for a bypass valve or $500 for something a lil more complicated. i wish i had a bypass valve on my integra. woulda put me $50 in the hole instead of $450.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fw190bvi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bypass valves are kinda odd.....
frankly 99% of the people who run them on their CAI (myself included) will never ever need them. hoewever, alsmot monthly, i see someone come on here and talk about how they hydrolocked with their STOCK air box in place...yea yea, they might be dumb, but its just a little bit of insurance.</TD></TR></TABLE>
As stated, cheap insurance.
I've seen hydrolocked engines that had bypassvalve. The bottom line, stay away from water. If you see huge puddles that are deep. don't fly right through them.
HEY fw190bvi love the avatar.
frankly 99% of the people who run them on their CAI (myself included) will never ever need them. hoewever, alsmot monthly, i see someone come on here and talk about how they hydrolocked with their STOCK air box in place...yea yea, they might be dumb, but its just a little bit of insurance.</TD></TR></TABLE>
As stated, cheap insurance.
I've seen hydrolocked engines that had bypassvalve. The bottom line, stay away from water. If you see huge puddles that are deep. don't fly right through them.
HEY fw190bvi love the avatar.
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Note to everyone the bypass valve will only engage if the filter is completely submerged in water other then that call it a day
i my self live in slower-lower Delaware and i got an AEm air bypass on my intake AEM as well but iuno it would only engage i guess if you are doing a submarine race lol
i my self live in slower-lower Delaware and i got an AEm air bypass on my intake AEM as well but iuno it would only engage i guess if you are doing a submarine race lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accordisslow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Note to everyone the bypass valve will only engage if the filter is completely submerged in water other then that call it a day</TD></TR></TABLE>
because water is heavier then air, water will only be sucked up when the filter is compellty submereged. however, because we are talking about pretty intense vaccume pressures, it takes only a split second for the motor to suck up enogh water to cause sereious problems, namely bent valves and rods
because water is heavier then air, water will only be sucked up when the filter is compellty submereged. however, because we are talking about pretty intense vaccume pressures, it takes only a split second for the motor to suck up enogh water to cause sereious problems, namely bent valves and rods
I dont drive through big *** puddles in my accord... im sure global warming will help me out too, gotts love the drought-ridden dry southwest U.S.
....Eccept when that dry riverbed floods within minutes from the Spring runoff from the high mountains. True, you've gotta be on a gully's overpass to get caught in one of these desert tsumani's - but I have heard of fatalities.
The bypass is there as insurance.
P
The bypass is there as insurance.
P
right on, yea im up at 7,000 ft elevation but still no snow this winter... Im glad you are around adams... Ive read a bunch of your posts and you are pretty knowledgeable. Thanks for helping me out, I guess Ill order it before the monsoon season in summer comes around... it does rain some here in summer so we'll see, I agree that its more of an insurance-investment. TY again. Peace.
i just ordered my v2 intake cold air system...so your saying the by pass valve is optional...even thought its raining the water wont get into my motor cuz i live in seattle...i was going to order the BPV but didnt want to cuz the dealer said it was optional....
I dont believe a bypass valve is useable with the V2 intake system....something about it messing with the harmonics that make the V2 supossedly much more powerful than other intakes. While in theroy the bypass valve is passive until a vacum occurs and the small rubber flaps open to allow fresh air, AEM states that there is a slight loss in power from installing them, therefore I suggest you do what I do....Buy a CAI, have a bypass valve there if the weather gets rough, but also have some 2.5 inch coupler tubing to put inplace of the valve if you are going to the strip...On a side note...
When I intsalled my CAI I didnt take the appropriate time to secure my inner fenderwell securely, on my 50 mile commute to work, the liner came loose and was melted by the tire rubbing against it, so without hesistation I cut of the damaged part and went about my business, on my way back home I drove on a few wet roads and soaked my filter, while my car didn't ingest any(noticable) water, the wet filter didn't allow the car to take in enough air to allow for an idle...I was absolutely certian that I had fucked my engine, so after I realized that it was just a soaked filter, I overnighted a bypass valve and a new fender liner, after installing the fender liner I have not had much need for the bypass valve, unless it comes to be hurricane season again...sorry for the long winded post, I hope it was helpful to you...
]
Chris
When I intsalled my CAI I didnt take the appropriate time to secure my inner fenderwell securely, on my 50 mile commute to work, the liner came loose and was melted by the tire rubbing against it, so without hesistation I cut of the damaged part and went about my business, on my way back home I drove on a few wet roads and soaked my filter, while my car didn't ingest any(noticable) water, the wet filter didn't allow the car to take in enough air to allow for an idle...I was absolutely certian that I had fucked my engine, so after I realized that it was just a soaked filter, I overnighted a bypass valve and a new fender liner, after installing the fender liner I have not had much need for the bypass valve, unless it comes to be hurricane season again...sorry for the long winded post, I hope it was helpful to you...
]
Chris
Just a note to mix things up. I installed the valve when I was stationed down in Biloxi MS, for obvious reasons, and noticed that it did in fact have an impact on the intake's 'operation.' Not to say that something wasn't doing as it should, but the valve would collapse when ever I tapped the throttle reving the engine, or was at full throttle with a load. I just didn't like the fact that it was pretty much voiding the point of my cold air intake by sucking in the under-hood hot air as it did under full throttle.
Just something to ponder.
Just something to ponder.
Want some real HP drive behind a diesel truck while there a a big black cloud of smoke and watch ur intake suck it all up! Tons and tons of fun! LOL
on a more serious note
sometimes when your Air bypass valve is cracked or broken it tends to leak air into the intake im on my second bypass valve because the first one i didnt mount my intake on to the bracet and it cracked in half but no it will not lose HP it was dyno tested at AEM.com !
Modified by accordisslow at 11:32 PM 12/28/2005
on a more serious note
sometimes when your Air bypass valve is cracked or broken it tends to leak air into the intake im on my second bypass valve because the first one i didnt mount my intake on to the bracet and it cracked in half but no it will not lose HP it was dyno tested at AEM.com !
Modified by accordisslow at 11:32 PM 12/28/2005
oh definetely, thanks everyone... I ended up buying a short -ram air intake so I need not worry about a bypass... I installed it last night and there is noticeable pickup, response and a great smooth sound.... cool!
also, does anyone know why the installation instructions for the short-ram, said to drain 1 gallon of coolant? It didnt say why...
Modified by OSIRIuS23 at 5:10 PM 12/29/2005
also, does anyone know why the installation instructions for the short-ram, said to drain 1 gallon of coolant? It didnt say why...
Modified by OSIRIuS23 at 5:10 PM 12/29/2005
in response to your statement :
"but no it will not lose HP it was dyno tested at AEM.com !"
Quote from AEM's website
"The bypass valve may cause a slight loss in power due to the interrupted wall section created by the internal shape of the valve. In dyno testing we have found that the power loss is minimal. The bypass valve offers great security against hydro locking the engine in rainy conditions. If maximum power is the requirement, we suggest that the bypass valve be used in the rainy season and when racing use a coupler hose to make a smooth section where the bypass valve goes."
"but no it will not lose HP it was dyno tested at AEM.com !"
Quote from AEM's website
"The bypass valve may cause a slight loss in power due to the interrupted wall section created by the internal shape of the valve. In dyno testing we have found that the power loss is minimal. The bypass valve offers great security against hydro locking the engine in rainy conditions. If maximum power is the requirement, we suggest that the bypass valve be used in the rainy season and when racing use a coupler hose to make a smooth section where the bypass valve goes."
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OSIRIuS23 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
also, does anyone know why the installation instructions for the short-ram, said to drain 1 gallon of coolant? It didnt say why...
Modified by OSIRIuS23 at 5:10 PM 12/29/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>
umm....throw those instructions away, do this.
take off stock hose and airbox, put on short-ram and couplers, hose clamps tight, filter on and tighten with hose clamp, hook up breather tubes,
dont drain your coolant for this job lol
also, does anyone know why the installation instructions for the short-ram, said to drain 1 gallon of coolant? It didnt say why...
Modified by OSIRIuS23 at 5:10 PM 12/29/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>
umm....throw those instructions away, do this.
take off stock hose and airbox, put on short-ram and couplers, hose clamps tight, filter on and tighten with hose clamp, hook up breather tubes,
dont drain your coolant for this job lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P_Adams »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, absolutely not. It sits passively there until needed.
P</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hate to disagree with you, but not all models to my knowledge. I have seen (and purchased) some cheaper versions that just have cut outs on the sides. There is no mechanism, that changes where the air is drawn in from, so i suspect small amounts of air are always being drawn in from the "valve" I have one but never have installed it due to the fact that it is a POS and does not fit right. However, i live in Washington State and cross the mountain passes on my way back to school and i have been through crazy rain storms and have had no problem. But like was said before, its cheap insurance.
P</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hate to disagree with you, but not all models to my knowledge. I have seen (and purchased) some cheaper versions that just have cut outs on the sides. There is no mechanism, that changes where the air is drawn in from, so i suspect small amounts of air are always being drawn in from the "valve" I have one but never have installed it due to the fact that it is a POS and does not fit right. However, i live in Washington State and cross the mountain passes on my way back to school and i have been through crazy rain storms and have had no problem. But like was said before, its cheap insurance.
I have one of those ebay intakes that is short ram and has an extension for cold air.
I always figured the bypass valve would negate the slight gains of a cai over sr for this very reason:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krispyaccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Quote from AEM's website
"The bypass valve may cause a slight loss in power due to the interrupted wall section created by the internal shape of the valve. In dyno testing we have found that the power loss is minimal. The bypass valve offers great security against hydro locking the engine in rainy conditions. If maximum power is the requirement, we suggest that the bypass valve be used in the rainy season and when racing use a coupler hose to make a smooth section where the bypass valve goes."
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I always figured the bypass valve would negate the slight gains of a cai over sr for this very reason:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krispyaccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Quote from AEM's website
"The bypass valve may cause a slight loss in power due to the interrupted wall section created by the internal shape of the valve. In dyno testing we have found that the power loss is minimal. The bypass valve offers great security against hydro locking the engine in rainy conditions. If maximum power is the requirement, we suggest that the bypass valve be used in the rainy season and when racing use a coupler hose to make a smooth section where the bypass valve goes."
</TD></TR></TABLE>


